Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.29049/rjcc.2021.29.4.488

The characteristics of democratization of fashion and fashionocracy in the global fashion industry  

Suk, Hyojung (Dept. of Fashion Business Management, SUNY Korea Fashion Institute of Technology)
Publication Information
The Research Journal of the Costume Culture / v.29, no.4, 2021 , pp. 488-504 More about this Journal
Abstract
This article examined the historical evolution of changes in the democratization of fashion, identified its characteristics, and defined 'fashionocracy - fashion democracy'- by analyzing various phenomena in the global fashion industry. This research will expand the field of fashion research and spark academic debates about fashion democracy. The democratization of fashion can be summarized in five periods; birth, introduction, early growth, growth, and maturity. The characteristics of the democratization of fashion include individual autonomy, accessibility that many people can access and enjoy, and diversity. According to the principles of democracy- "of the people, for the people, by the people" - which are based on freedom and equality, we have achieved fashion of the people and for the people so far. Furthermore, social media has shifted the balance of power to influencers and bloggers; as such, the masses who have consumed and enjoyed fashion democratization are becoming producers and promoters by actively participating in the process of making fashion, creating a new era of fashion democracy (fashionocracy): - by the people. Ultimately, fashionocracy consists of the '6P's' ; people (active and productive consumers), planet (society and environmental sustainability), products (genderless, ageless, inclusive), price (reasonable), place (multi-channel distribution, virtual spaces), and promotion (horizontal).
Keywords
fashionocracy; fashion democracy; democratization of fashion; global fashion industry;
Citations & Related Records
Times Cited By KSCI : 1  (Citation Analysis)
연도 인용수 순위
1 Ji, Y., & Min, J. (2015). A study on the extension of culture and arts rights: Focusing on the notion of "Mediation culturelle" and "Mediateur culturel". The Journal of Cultural Policy, 29(1), 28-49.   DOI
2 Hong, K. (1997). Costume before and after the French revolution -A study of the influence of European enlightment to European costume-. Journal of Fashion Business, 1(2), 20-30.
3 Berezhna, V. (2018, April 6). Brands boost influencer marketing budgets. The Business of Fashion. Retrieved October 20, 2020, from https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-bites/the-evolution-of-influencer-marketing?source=bibblio
4 Bick, R., Halsey, E., & Ekenga, C. C. (2018). The global environmental injustice of fast fashion. Environmental Health, 17(1), 1-4. doi:10.1186/s12940-018-0433-7   DOI
5 Brydges, T., Hracs, B. J., & Lavanga, M. (2018). Evolution versus entrenchment: Debating the impact of digitization, democratization and diffusion in the global fashion industry. International Journal of Fashion Studies, 5(2), 365-372. doi:10.1386/infs.5.2.365_7   DOI
6 Crane, D. (2004). Fashion and its social agendas (M. Seo, Trans.). Seoul: Hangilsa. (Original work published 2000)
7 Choi, M. (2018). Consumer survey on the marketability of young plus-size clothes in the USA. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 26(3), 313-326. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2018.26.3.313   DOI
8 Chung, S., & Yim, E. (2020). Fashion activism for sustainability on social media. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 28(6), 815-829. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2020.28.6.815   DOI
9 Campbell, C. (2010). The romantic ethic and the spirit of modern consumerism (H. Park & H. Jung, Trans.). Seoul: Nanam. (Original work published 1987)
10 DeJean, J. (2006). The essence of style (E. Choi, Trans.). Seoul: Jian Books. (Original work published 2005)
11 Democracy. (2008). In Encyclopedia of Korean Culture. Retrieved February 1, 2020, from https://encykorea.aks.ac.kr/Contents/Item/E0020297
12 Finkelstein, J. (2005). After a fashion (D. Kim & Y. Kim, Trans.). Seoul: Cheongnyunsa. (Original work published 1996)
13 The fashion industry pays attention to plus-size women. (2017, July 15). Economist. Retrieved May 3, 2018, from https://www.economist.com/news/business/21725029-revenue-category-outstrippingtotal-clothing-sales-fashion-industry-pays
14 HM Korea. (2018, April 16). Moschino x H&M 디자이너 콜라보레이션 [Moschino x H&M designer collaboration]. Inside H&M Korea. Retrieved December 20, 2019, from https://m.post.naver.com/viewer/postView.nhn?volumeNo=14998258&memberNo=20048415&vType=VERTICAL
15 Kim, M. (1998). A study on modernism and postmodernism depicted on the 29th century of fashion (II)- Focused on anti-aesthetics and open fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 38, 369-392.
16 Kwon, H., & Lee, S. (2000). A study on class representation in Korean and western costume. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 50(4), 147-164.
17 Oh, S., & Choi, J. (2012). A study on attitude factors for the global fast fashion brands. Journal of Korean Society for the Scientific Study of Subjectivity, 25, 217-242.
18 Smith, P. J. (2017, August 16). Why fur-free is the future of fashion. Huffington Post. Retrieved January 18, 2020, from https://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/why-fur-free-is-the-future-of-fashion_us_598e1e71e4b0ed1f464c0ab2
19 Han, S. (2017). Cultural democracy and cultural policy in France: The case of cultural festival. Etudes de la Culture Francaise et de Arts en France, 59, 317-347. doi:10.21651/cfaf.2017.59..317   DOI
20 Kapferer, J. N. (2012). Abundant rarity: The key to luxury growth. Business Horizons, 55(5), 453-462. doi:10.1016/j.bushor.2012.04.002   DOI
21 Truong, Y., McColl, R., & Kitchen, P. J. (2009). New luxury brand positioning and the emergence of masstige brands. Journal of Brand Management, 16(5-6), 375-382. doi:10.1057/bm.2009.1   DOI
22 Walsh, M. (1979). The democratization of fashion: The emergence of the women's dress pattern industry. The Journal of American History, 66(2), 299-313. doi:10.2307/1900878   DOI
23 Wiedmann, K. P., Hennigs, N., & Langner, S. (2010). Spreading the word of fashion: Identifying social influencers in fashion marketing. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 1(3), 142-153. doi:10.1080/20932685.2010.10593066   DOI
24 French Revolution. (2020). In Wikipedia. Retrieved January 20, 2020, from https://ko.wikisource.org/wiki/글로벌_세계_대백과사전/세계사/근대_유럽과_아시아/계몽주의와_프랑스_혁명/절대왕제의_ 쇠퇴와_프랑스_혁명
25 Kim, W., & Choo, H. (2019). The effects of SNS fashion influencer authenticity on follower behavior intention -Focused on the mediation effect of fanship-. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing & Textiles, 43(1), 17-32. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2019.43.1.17   DOI
26 Khan, A. (2017, February 22). Generation M: How young Muslim women are driving a modest fashion revolution. The Guardian. Retrieved January 16, 2020, from https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2017/feb/22/generation-m-how-young-muslim-women-are-driving-a-modest-fashion-revolution
27 Yoo, J. (2007). Future of fashion democracy and Korean fashion. Fashion Information and Technology, 4, 67-72.
28 Kim, E. (2018, May 28). 고가 핸드백 대신 운동화로...명품의 얼굴이 바뀌었다 [Sneakers instead of luxury handbag...Face of luxury has changed]. Chosun Ilbo. Retrieved February 1, 2020, from https://www.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2018/05/28/2018052800158.html
29 Kim, H., & Park, M. (2021). The effect of live commerce's para-social interaction on satisfaction with the experience. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 28(6), 719-737. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2020.28.6.719   DOI
30 Kim, J., & Lee, Y. (2016). Expressive characteristics of genderless style appeared in contemporary women's fashion. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 24(6), 903-919. doi:10.7741/rjcc.2016.24.6.903   DOI
31 Kim, Y. (2014). The appearance of the ready-to-wear clothing in the west and its utopian characteristics. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 64(3), 155-164. doi:10.7233/jksc.2014.64.3.155   DOI
32 Kim, Y., & Lee, K. (2002). A study on the symbolic meaning in the 20th century men's fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 52(4), 51-63.
33 Kwak, T. (2001). A study on the generation and characteristic of new fashion found in changes in revolutionary fashion -Focused on the new look of Christian Dior-. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 51(1), 129-143.
34 Langsted, J. (1989). Double strategies in a modern cultural policy. Journal of Arts Management and Law, 19(4), 53-71. doi:10.1080/07335113.1989.10593788   DOI
35 Thubert, S., Francoulon, L., Weber, L., Maniere, I. C., & Boyaval, F. (2017). Duty-free shops: Are luxury brands being democratized? Procedia Computer Science, 122, 533-540. doi:10.1016/j.procs.2017.11.403   DOI
36 Yoh, E. (2018). Determinants of purchase intention for vegan fashion products. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 26(2), 125-139. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2018.26.2.125   DOI
37 Miller, D., & Woodward, S. (2017). Global denim (C. Oh, H. Lee, & D. Park, Trans.). Seoul: Nulmin Books. (Original work published 2011)
38 Yoon, T., Noh, J., & Koh, A. (2014). A study on fast fashion phenomena through the understanding of modern consumer society. Journal of Consumer Studies, 25(4), 229-251.
39 Lee, H. (2017). A study on the how nature is the essence of nordic jewelry design. Journal of the Korean Society Design Culture, 23(4), 643-654. doi:10.18208/ksdc.2017.23.4.643   DOI
40 Lipovetsky, G. (1999). The empire of fashion (D. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Moonye. (Original work published 1987)
41 Myeong, S. (2017, March 29). 글로벌 1위 가구기업 이케아 대중위한 'democratic design' 통했다 [Global top Ikea, 'democratic design' works]. Maeil Kyungje. Retrieved January 20, 2020, from https://www.mk.co.kr/news/business/view/2017/03/213832/
42 Raustiala, K., & Sprigman, C. (2006). The piracy and paradox: Innovation and intellectual property in fashion design. Virginia Law Review, 92(8), 1687-1777.
43 Rosa, A. M. (2013). The evolution and democratization of modern fashion: From Frederick Worth to Karl Lagerfeld's fast fashion. Comunicacao e Sociedade, 24, 79-94. doi:10.17231/comsoc.24(2013).1777   DOI
44 Suh, S. (2017). Digital fashion image aura represented in the Burberry Instagram. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 67(3), 115-132. doi:10.7233/jksc.2017.67.3.115   DOI
45 Symonds, E. H. (1933). The power of fashion. Journal of the Royal Society of Arts, 81(4196), 529-545.
46 Ryu, S. (2015). The artisan of Bauhaus design democracy: Collision and collaboration of art and technology. The Journal of the Korean Contents Association, 15(12), 61-72. doi:10.5392/JKCA.2015.15.12.061   DOI
47 Seol, J. (2009). The evolution of social media and its social impact. Proceeding of Fall Convention of Korean Association for Communication and Information Studies, 35-37.
48 The Business of Fashion, & McKinsey & Company. (2020). The state of fashion 2020. London: Author.
49 Suh, S. (2007). A study on policy implications of the democratization of culture and cultural democracy. Korean Local Government Review, 8(3), 23-44.
50 The Business of Fashion, & McKinsey & Company. (2019). The state of fashion 2019. London: Author.
51 The Business of Fashion, & McKinsey & Company. (2017). The state of fashion 2017. London: Author.
52 The Business of Fashion, & McKinsey & Company. (2018). The state of fashion 2018. London: Author.
53 The Business of Fashion, & McKinsey & Company. (2021). The state of fashion 2021. London: Author.