• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.811-819
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine orientalism in Korean modem fashion by Korean fashion designers. Orientalism in fashion has been widely known to people by the efforts of many researchers, but that in Korean fashion wasn't. We thus study the aesthetic meaning of Korean orientalism, and extend it to oriental fashion as well as meaning of modem orientalism shown in Korean fashion. For this study, we categorized the orientalism in Korean fashion as follows: 1) mix orientalism; 2) natural beauty with non technical skill; 3) humorous beauty; 4) color beauty.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.39-52
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• 2018

The objective of this study was to enhance understanding and appreciation of Pre-Orientalism in costumes and textiles by revealing examples of Oriental influences in Europe from the 16th century to the mid-18th century through in-depth study. The research method used were the presentation and analysis of previous literature research and visual data. The result were as follows; Pre-Orientalism had been influenced by Morocco, Thailand, and Persia as well as Turkey, India, and China. In this study, Pre-Orientalism refers to oriental influence and oriental taste in Western Europe through cultural exchanges from the 16th century to the mid-18th century. The oriental costume was the most popular subspecies of fancy, luxury dress and was a way to show off wealth and intelligence. Textiles were used for decoration and luxury. The Embassy and the court in Versailles and Vienna led to a frenzy of oriental fashion. It appeared that European in the royal family and aristocracy of Europe had been accommodated without an accurate understanding of the Orient. Although in this study, the characteristics, factors, and impacts of Pre-Orientalism have not been clarified, further study can be done. Recognizing a broad perspective on oriental influence in Europe before Orientalism, we can have a balanced view of future Orientalism and global fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.127-144
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to clarify the phenomenon and characteristics of fashion in before Orientalism by examining the environmental changes and factors of East - West cultural exchange from the 16th century to the 18th century. To this end, this study examines the development of political and diplomatic relations, the growth of economy and trade, the investment of culture and arts, and the development of industry and technology. The research method used was the analysis of previous literature research and visual data. The result were as follows; the characteristics and phenomena in fashion in before Orientalism were symbolism as a privileged whole, applying to special clothing area, variety and splendor of fabrics, change of costume design, and a trend of exotic taste. Before Orientalism, the perspective of Orient in Europe can be seen as having the positive aspects cause of developing fashion and a negative aspect coming from an incorrect understanding and a bias.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.245-264
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• 2020

This study identifies Kim Jihaye and Lee Jeanyoun as actor-networks with cultural values and meanings. It analyzes the process of reorganizing their works into Korean orientalism via an action of co-construction with formative techniques. First, the historical context of orientalism formed in the fashion world will be studied, followed by the design characteristics of orientalism, and the correlation between the Korean orientalism of these designers on the world stage influenced by the globalization discourse of Korean tradition since the 1980s. Next, works of Kim Jihaye and Lee Jeanyoun from 2000 to 2012 will be analyzed, revealing aspects of Korean image reproduction. Consequently, this study finds that the Korean image is restructured socio-culturally through technological imagery as a reproduction of reality by the production subject. This study reminds us of the reflective and cultural meaning of fashion designers in the area of image reproduction, sociocultural practice, and materials and technology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.109-127
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• 2002

As modern fashion trends show oriental motif since the transition of post-modernism, a number of great fashion designers such as Givenchy and Jean-Paul Gautier applied the concept of Orientalism to their fashion design. Total fashion is a trend in which make-up, hair-style, and accessories. together with clothing itself are considered a complete fashion as a whole, and sometimes appeals much to consumers. Given that the previous studies on Orientalism have focused only on clothing. this research aims at examining Orientalism with a total fashion approach to simultaneously study make-up, hair-style, accessories, and clothing, and showing that traditional oriental beauty is expressed by total fashion in which the past appeared again through the process of creative application. We analyzed the Orientalism total fashion from 1990 through 2001 and summarized the national differences among these countries in the following. First, China has a uniformed clothing. make-up, and hair-style as shown its traditional play, "KyungKeuk" and traditional costume, Chipao. Second, Japanese unique traditional costume has been passed on through its traditional costume, Kimono, and traditional play, "Kabuki" Finally, in Korea, make-up, hair-style and the design of the traditional costume. Hanbok, as appeared in "Myindo(means a picture of a beauty) Painted in the Chosun Era are applied and reappeared without much change. It is advised to note that the Orientalism fashion to be discussed in this study is limited to China, Japan, and Korea in Asia.Japan, and Korea in Asia.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.150-161
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• 2005

The retro fashion and orientalism have been the main trend in the fashion industry tram 2000 as the turning point tram the minimalism. In particular, the far eastern oriental ism, that is, Japanese orientalism had been rapidly spread from 2001. As the trend has been moving to Chinese orientalism from 2003, the fabrics with flower pattern prints and those imbued with Chinese orientalism that were popular in 1960 are the main stream in the textile industry at present. As keeping up with the current trend, this study analyzed the common features and differences between textile patterns with Chinese orientalism that are prevailing ai present and the textile patterns that were popular in 1960s through the film "In the Mood for Love" that told the story of people who immigrated from Shanghai to Hong Kong in 1960s. According to the analysis, the popular textile patterns in 1960s were splendid flower patterns, pop art and op art patterns. Such a trend was elegantly expressed as the textile pattern of Chinese orientalism using qipao in the film "In the Mood for Love".

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.133-149
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• 2005

Western designers have long been inspired by exotic and mysterious looks and feelings of non-western countries in their design works. The influence of Orientalism has been prevalent not only in fashion but also in overall aspects of Western cultures ad it dated back to the B.C period. Orientalism has been interpreted differently in different ages. Orientalism has been in effect since the strong emergence of Western powers beginning in the 13th century. There have been produced many studies to analyze the tradition of Western fashion under the framework of Orientalism, but most of them have focused on women's wear and the researches on men's wear have hardly been productive, particularly on men's skirts. This paper aims to analyze the restoration movement of men's skirt fashion in Western societies such as tin America and European countries from the standpoint of Orientalism and attempts to forecast its future. The paper shows how we can reveal the identity of the tradition of men's skirt in Western fashion by making a critical comparison between the pictures of western men's skirts and those found in the folk fashion tradition in non-western countries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.902-910
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• 2008

A view of the Orientalism that sees the Orient as the inferior Other, characterized by the heterogenic, eccentric, backward, and passive features, has been internalized in the unconsciousness of Westerners. 'Orientalism' which is the cultural device and the system of discourse to put Asia in the fixed frame of dominance was the West European centered term, designating Southwest Asia including South Europe and North Africa as Orient, and contained the idea that non-Western society could progress only with the acceptance of Western civilization. Accordingly, it is need to use this term deliberately. In addition, even though the Asian Look of the West, borrowing the images and costume styles of Asia has lost the original mentality of Asia, it was not initiated from the perception that sees Asia as the inferior Other. Since the Asian Ethnic Look is the Western costume, borrowing the image of Orient and style by being fascinated by Oriental Aesthetics, the attributes of it are different from those of Orientalism. Therefore, it is not appropriate to designate the Asian Ethnic Look as 'Orientalism Fashion' or 'Oriental Look' except for some eccentric manipulation of Asia costume and image. Instead, it is desirable to exchange the term 'Asian Look', 'Asian Fashion', and 'Asian Ethnic Look' upon occasions or the name of individual nation or region can be referred to as preferred alternatives. Today, Asia including Korea is taking the initiative in the World Fashion as one of central axes of World Fashion Industry, and cannot be interpreted from the perspective of West Centrism. Now, it's time to dissolve the dichotomous prejudice of the West centrism on Asia's own strength.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.37-51
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• 2000

In this study, New Orientalism represened in modern fashion is defined a new idea that harmonized with factors of eclecticism, traditionalism, naturalism, and futurism and these characteristics are examined. First, as these features, it is the phenomenon of eclecticism presented beyond regions and sex. Second, it is the phenomenon of traditionalism newly expressed traditional images in a modern sense by using and changing of a oriental dress image of the of the past. Third, it is the phenomenon of naturalism revealed an unalloyed recurrent instinct about nature and a desire for yearning. Fourth, it is the phenomenon of futurism which is come out the factor of oriental images whithin a minimal and cyber environment. This paper might be the foundation for Korean Orientalism which could be not a just pastiche but a cultural commodity and s main fashion current with a cultural identity especially in the year of 2000, "New Arts Year", declared by Ministry of Culture and Tourism.

• SUVANNABHUMI
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.7-34
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• 2018

Finding distinguishing characteristics of Southeast Asia has proven to be a significant challenge: by focusing on the encounters which primarily colonial British writers had with the region's state rulers, it becomes possible to recover the early conceptualizations of regional governance. The writings of Henry Yule, Anna Leonowens, Sir George Scott, and Hugh Clifford all document the "orientalist" features of Western discourses because these writers at once were affected by it as they contributed to it. The discourse about royalty and rulers was central to many of the tropes associated with orientalism, but also with 'ornamentalism'. David Cannadine has shown that ornamentalism (in which British conceptualized many imperial practices in relation to their own hierarchical conceptions of society) was as critical a feature of imperial outlook as was orientalism. The need to understand ruling elites was at the heart of the imperialist project. Tracing the ways in which colonizing powers represented the region's ruling elite offers a new avenue for recognizing the affinities of the regional experience. Beyond orientalism, the paper explores questions about the representation and presentation of authority. Understanding the conceptualizations of rulers is connected to the comprehension of social organization-including representations of "traditional society."