Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Effects of Provitamin D on Skin Pigmentation and Immunity

프로 비타민 D 의 피부색 조절 및 면역 효능

  • Hyunjung Choi (Basic Research & Innovation Division, AMOREPACIFIC R&I Center) ;
  • Daejin Min (Basic Research & Innovation Division, AMOREPACIFIC R&I Center) ;
  • Eun-Jeong Choi (Basic Research & Innovation Division, AMOREPACIFIC R&I Center) ;
  • Seung-Han Park (Basic Research & Innovation Division, AMOREPACIFIC R&I Center) ;
  • Hyoung-June Kim (Basic Research & Innovation Division, AMOREPACIFIC R&I Center) ;
  • Won-Seok Park (Basic Research & Innovation Division, AMOREPACIFIC R&I Center)
  • 최현정 (아모레퍼시픽 R&I 센터) ;
  • 민대진 (아모레퍼시픽 R&I 센터) ;
  • 최은정 (아모레퍼시픽 R&I 센터) ;
  • 박승한 (아모레퍼시픽 R&I 센터) ;
  • 김형준 (아모레퍼시픽 R&I 센터) ;
  • 박원석 (아모레퍼시픽 R&I 센터)
  • Received : 2024.05.29
  • Accepted : 2024.06.18
  • Published : 2024.06.30
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Abstract

Vitamin D is a fat-soluble vitamin that is mainly produced in the skin by UV rays. Along with melatonin, it is a representative chronobiotic substance, and the skin plays an important role in distinguishing between day and night. However, vitamin D cannot be used directly in cosmetics because it is a vitamin that acts as a coenzyme and plays a hormonal role in regulating the expression of various types of genes. Therefore, it was to investigate the skin efficacy of provitamin D (7-dehydrocholesterol), a vitamin D precursor that can be used in cosmetics. Our findings reveal that pro vitamin D can effectively inhibit the expression of tyrosinase, the melanin-producing enzyme, thereby attenuating melanin synthesis. This skin tone regulatory effect has been corroborated in vitro using artificial skin models. Additionally, pro vitamin D demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties by suppressing the expression of TNFa and, upon conversion to vitamin D through UV exposure, it was observed to induce the production of the antimicrobial peptide CAMP (LL-37). The inhibitory effect of pro vitamin D on melanin production appears to be a result of it reducing the UV absorption capacity of melanin, thereby inducing the conversion of pro D to vitamin D. Utilizing pro vitamin D in cosmetic formulations could not only modulate skin tone and enhance skin immunity but also expect to contribute to other cutaneous benefits as anti-aging and barrier function improvement with everyday UV exposure. This multifaceted efficacy positions pro vitamin D as a promising ingredient in advancing the formulation of skin care products.

비타민 D는 주로 자외선에 의해 피부에서 만들어지는 지용성 비타민이다. 멜라토닌과 함께 대표적인 '크로노바이오틱(chronobiotic)' 물질로써 피부가 낮과 밤을 구분하는데 중요한 역할을 한다. 하지만 비타민 D는 조효소 역할을 하는 비타민이자 여러 종류의 유전자 발현을 조절하는 호르몬적 역할을 하기 때문에 화장품에 직접적으로 사용할 수 없다. 따라서 화장품에 사용할 수 있는 비타민 D 전구체인 프로 비타민 D (7-dehydrocholesterol)의 피부 효능에 대해서 알아보고자 하였다. 그 결과, 프로 비타민 D는 멜라닌 생성 효소인 타이로시네이즈(tyrosinase)의 단백질 발현을 억제하여 멜라닌 생성을 억제할 수 있음을 확인할 수 있었다. 이와 같은 피부톤 케어 효과는 인공 피부에서도 검증되었다. 또한 프로 비타민 D는 피부 염증을 일으키는 TNFa의 발현을 억제하고, 자외선에 의해 비타민 D로 전환되면 항균 펩타이드인 CAMP (LL-37)의 발현을 증가시킨다는 것이 확인되었다. 프로 비타민 D가 멜라닌 생성을 억제하는 것은 멜라닌이 자외선을 흡수하여 프로 비타민 D가 비타민 D로 전환되는 것을 억제하기 때문인 것으로 보인다. 따라서 화장품 제형에 프로 비타민 D를 활용한다면 피부톤을 조절하고 피부 면역을 증진시킴과 동시에 일상 생활 속에서 자외선에 의해 비타민 D 전환되면 다른 피부 효능, 즉 피부 항노화, 장벽 기능 향상 등도 기대할 수 있을 것으로 생각한다.

Keywords

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