The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Analysis of the collar pattern of a double-breasted tailored jacket using virtual fitting - Comparison of collar laying amount according to lapel fold line start position -

가상착의를 활용한 더블브레스트 테일러드 재킷의 칼라 패턴 분석 - 라펠 꺾임선 시작 위치에 따른 칼라의 눕힘 분량 비교 -

  • Mi Hwa Jun (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Gyeongsang National University) ;
  • Jeongah Jang (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Pusan National University)
  • Received : 2023.07.24
  • Accepted : 2023.10.04
  • Published : 2023.10.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This study aimed to suggest a suitable collar pattern by visually evaluating the appearance of the amount of collar drape by the starting position of the lapel line of a double-breasted tailored jacket using a 3d virtual fitting program. It created an avatar based on the mean size of women in their 20s (the 8th Size Korea) using clo network (double fastening: 10cm, collar width: 4.5cm, collar stand: 3cm, and lapel width: 8.5cm). The starting of the lapel twist line was waistline level, the 1/2 level of bustline and waistline, or bustline level, and collar laying amount was 4.5, 5.5, 6.5, or 7.5cm. It was evaluated by garment construction experts using 5, 6, and 4 items on the front, sides, and back, respectively. Descriptive statistics, F-test, Duncan-test, and reliability analysis were conducted using SPSS 22. When collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. Under waist line, when collar laying amount was 6.5cm, it was best rated regardless of the starting point. When collar laying amount was large, the collar's outline length increased, resulting in unnecessary wrinkles from the neckline to the lapel, affecting the overall collar appearance. When collar laying amount was the smallest, the collar was lifted and the width was narrowed, exposing the seam connecting the collar and neckline. The length of the collar's outline varied depending on collar laying amount, which was important to make the outline sit comfortably on the body.

Keywords

Acknowledgement

This work was supported by a 2-Year Research Grant of Pusan National University.

References

  1. Ahn, H. (2008). A study on tailored collar pattern for jacket. Unpublished master's thesis, Konkuk University, Seoul, Korea.
  2. Choi, I. Y. (2016). A study on the different shapes and contours of tailored collars: Focusing on collar laying amount and collar stand of tailored jackets. Unpublished master's thesis, Konkuk University, Seoul, Korea.
  3. Choi, I. Y., Kim, H. S., & Kim, J. M. (2017). A comparative study on tailored jacket collar variations using human subjects and virtual simulation: A focus on collar stand and laying amount. Journal of Korea Design Forum, 57, 151-163. doi:10.21326/ksdt.2017..57.013
  4. Han, S. G. (2023, January 24). [뉴스속기업]구찌.아디다스도 반한 '클로버추얼패션' [News insider] 'CLO virtual fashion' that even Gucci and Adidas fell in love with]. Asia Economy. Retrieved February 22, 2023, from https://view.asiae.co.kr/article/2023011910083841533
  5. Jeong, H.-Y. (2010). A comparative study on the tailored collar patterns of women's jackets: Focus on clothing construction textbooks. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 34(4), 617-627. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2010.34.4.617
  6. Kim, S. H. (2015). 테일러드 재킷 만들기 [Making a tailored jacket with a live silhouette]. Bucheon: Bookk.
  7. Korean Agency for Technology and Standards. (2022). 8차 인체치수조사 [The 8th size Korea]. Size Korea. Retrieved September 3, 2022, from https://sizekorea.kr/human-info/meas-report?measDegree=8
  8. Lee, B.-N., & Suh, M.-A. (2006). A study on the visual image by pattern drafting of tailored collar. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 14(4), 609-624.
  9. Lee, S.-Y. (2011). A study on the character of collar and lapels according to collar laying amount: Focused on tailored jacket. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 35(4), 421-430. doi:10.5850/JKSCT.2011.35.4.421
  10. Lim, J. Y. (1997). A study of collar roll line lay down angle variation of collar width: On the tailored collar. 안성여자기능대학 논문집, 3, 471-486.