복식문화연구 (The Research Journal of the Costume Culture)

  • 제31권2호
  • /
  • Pages.248-261
  • /
  • 2023
  • /
  • 1226-0401(pISSN)
  • /
  • 2383-6334(eISSN)
복식문화학회 (The Costume Culture Association)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

포도당 환원에 의한 쪽 천연염색에 관한 연구

A study on the Polygonum tinctoria natural dyeing of by glucose reduction

  • 김미경 (배화여자대학교 패션산업학과 )
  • Mikyoung Kim (Dept. of Fashion Industry, Baewha Women's University)
  • 투고 : 2023.03.20
  • 심사 : 2023.04.04
  • 발행 : 2023.04.30
PDF 다운로드
⟨ 이전 논문 다음 논문 ⟩

초록

The conditions for minimizing dyes and additives when dyeing cellulose fibers such as linen, ramie, and hemp fabrics were obtained using glucose, an organic reducing agent. Dyeability and colorfastness were measured through repeated dyeing. The overall surface dyeing concentration followed the linen>hemp>ramie order, and most of the colors were in the range of PB (PurpleBlue). As the glucose concentration increased, the blue series was strengthened, and the color was dark and clear. It was determined that glucose the concentration of 4g/L was appropriate for minimizing the amount of dye. When the dyeing temperature was 30℃, the surface dyeing concentration was the highest, and the color was dark and clear. Although the dyeing concentration increased as NaOH concentration increased, 3g/L (pH 12.37) was considered appropriate for the minimum NaOH concentration, which becomes gradual after the dyeing concentration increased rapidly. It was found that the surface dyeing concentration, when repeated six times for 5 min, was better than that of dyeing once for 30 min. Washing, rubbing, and perspiration colorfastness were all found to be excellent in grades 4-4-5, and colorfastness to light was excellent in grades 5 of linen and hemp and grade 4 of ramie.

키워드

참고문헌

  1. Bae, J. S. (2009). Fabric dyeing with indigo and Japanese pagoda tree for color mixture (I): Treatment on cellulose fabrics. Textile Coloration and Finishing, 21(2), 29-39. doi:10.5764/TCF.2009.21.2.029
  2. Cho, K. R. (2000). 천연염료와 염색 [Natural dyes and dyeing]. Seoul: Hyungseul.
  3. Chu, Y. J., & Nam, S. W. (1997). A study on the natural mordants in natural dyeing(I): Rice straw ash. Textile Coloration and Finishing, 9(6), 33-41.
  4. Chung, I. M., Nam, S. W., & Kim, I. H. (1998). A study on the silk dyeing with natural indigo extracted from Polygonum tinctorium: On the fermentation dyeing. Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science, 40(1), 78-85.
  5. Fletcher, K. (2011). Sustainable fashion & textile (Lee, J. H., & Kim, S. H., Trans.). Paju: Gyo- moonsa. (Original work published 2008)
  6. Jung, C. (2022). Indigo reduction by using Dietzia sp. KDB1. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Chonnam National University, Gwangju, Korea.
  7. Jung, Y. J., Lee, M. H., Choi, H. W., & Lee, E. P. (2000). A study on the dyeing properties of natural indigo complex powder and synthetic indigo with natural fiber. Textile Coloration and Finishing, 12(3), 16-24.
  8. Kang, J. Y., & Ryu, H. S. (1999). The dyeability of indigo depending on the pH of reduction bath. Textile Coloration and Finishing, 11(4), 24-30.
  9. Kim, A. S. (1995). The study on the dyeing properties of natural dyes(II): Dyeing properties of cotton and silk fabrics by color solution extracted from leaf dyeing of indigo plant. Textile Coloration and Finishing, 7(4), 16-24.
  10. Kim, M., & Jeon, D. (2011). A study on the effect of the changes of dyeing conditions on the dye- ability of cotton fabrics dyed with natural Poly- gonum tinctoria. Journal of Fashion Business, 15(4), 144-154. doi:10.12940/jfb.2011.15.4.144
  11. Kim, M. K. (2013). A study on natural Polygonum tinctoria dyeing of sustainable eco-friendly cellulose fabric and its application. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  12. Kim, S. R. (2011). 피복재료학 [Clothing materials science] (3rd ed.). Paju: Gyomoonsa.
  13. Lee, J. N. (2004). 우리가 정말 알아야 할 천연염색 [Natural dyeing that we really need to know]. Seoul: Hyeonamsa.
  14. Lee, S., & Kim, S. (2011). Study on the development of practical application of indigo dyes. The Re- search Journal of the Costume Culture, 19(3), 612-621. doi:10.29049/rjcc.2011.19.3.612
  15. Lee, S. C. (2001). 자연염색: 내 손으로 물들이는 자연의 색 [Natural dyeing: The color of nature that I dye with my hands]. Seoul: Hakgojae.
  16. Park, J. L. (2013). Fabric dyeing property for natural indigo on reducing condition. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  17. Roessler, A., Crettenand, D., Dossenbach, O., Marte, W., & Rys, P. (2002). Direct electrochemical reduction of indigo. Electrochimica Acta, 47(12), 1989-1995. doi:10.1016/S0013-4686(02)00028-2
  18. Shin, J., & Choi, J. (2016). Dyeing properties and colorimetric characteristics for cellulose fabrics dyed with indigo by different reducing conditions. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 24(6), 777-787. doi:10.7741/rjcc. 2016.24.6.777
  19. Shin, J., & Choi, J. (2019). Dyeing characteristics and colorfastness of cotton and flax fabrics dyed with natural indigo using glucose reduction. Korean Journal of Human Ecology, 28(4), 369-378. doi:10.5934/kjhe.2019.28.4.369
  20. Shin, Y., Cho, A.-R., & Yoo, D. I. (2009). Natural indigo dyeing by using glucose reduction. Textile Coloration and Finishing, 21(3), 10-18. doi:10. 5764/TCF.2009.21.3.010 https://doi.org/10.5764/TCF.2009.21.3.010
  21. Son, K., Shin, Y., & Yoo., D. I. (2011). Optimization of cellulose dyeing with natural indigo: Ramie dyeing by one-step reduction/dyeing process, Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 13(2), 263-268. doi:10.5805/KSCI.2011.13.2.263