Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회지)

The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles (한국의류학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Expression of Identity in Martin Gutierrez's Fashion Media Works -Focused on Judith Butler and Athena Athanasiou's Concept of Dispossession-

마틴 구티에레즈의 패션미디어 작품에 나타난 정체성 표현 -주디스 버틀러와 아테나 아타나시오우의 박탈(Dispossession) 개념을 중심으로-

  • Myeongseon Yi (Dept. of Fashion Design, Sungkyunkwan University) ;
  • Eunhyuk Yim (Dept. of Fashion Design, Sungkyunkwan University)
  • 이명선 (성균관대학교 의상학과) ;
  • 임은혁 (성균관대학교 의상학과)
  • Received : 2022.08.11
  • Accepted : 2023.01.17
  • Published : 2023.04.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

The boundaries between fashion and contemporary art are increasingly blurred showing their interchangeability. This study examines Judith Butler and Athena Athanasiou's concept of dispossession to analyze expressions of gender, racial, and class identity in Martine Gutierrez's representative work, Indigenous Woman. First, gender expressions in Indigenous Woman emphasize the possibility of performative and practical gender as an image that rejects norms that grant authority according to the possession of innate body parts. Second, racial identity is expressed through resistance to the ideology of whiteness and imperialism reinforced by fashion media. The author aims to overcome normative stereotypes through the media she creates, which reveals her identity as a person of color. Third, class identity is represented through stereotypes that limit the lives of indigenous people to primitive and natural things. The author reveals a critical awareness of the hierarchical structure and cultural appropriation these stereotypes have created. This study analyzed contemporary artworks using fashion media through the concept of dispossession. The significance of this study lies in raising a critical awareness of the practices that diffuse minority identities in fashion media.

Keywords

References

  1. Austin, R. (1992). Black women, sisterhood, and the difference/deviance divide. New England Law Review, 26, 877.
  2. Baek, J. H., & Bae, S. J. (2017). A study on the utilization characteristics of art print for strengthening visual identity of fashion brand. Journal of the Korean Society of Design and Culture, 23(3), 401-410. doi:10.18208/ksdc.2017.23.3.401
  3. Barthes, R. (2009). Mythologies(Annette Lavers, Trans). Vintage. (Original work published 1972)
  4. Breward, C. (1998). Cultures, identities, histories: Fashioning a cultural approach to dress. Fashion Theory, 2(4), 301-313. doi:10.2752/136270498779476127
  5. Bucholtz, M., & Hall, K. (2005). Language and identity. A companion to linguistic anthropology, 1, 369-394. doi:10.1002/9780470996522.ch16
  6. Butler, J. (2011). Gender trouble: Feminism and the subversion of identity. London: Routledge.
  7. Butler, J., & Athanasiou, A. (2013). Dispossession: The performative in the political. Cambridge: Polity Press.
  8. Byun, T. H. (2020). A study on expression of human image in digital media art focusing on the major works of Bill Viola and Martine Gutierrez. Journal of Cultural Product & Design, 63, 109-122. doi:10.18555/kicpd.2020.63.10
  9. Calderon, B. (2019, August 1). Demons and deities: Martine Gutierrez's indigenous inspired iconography. Art21 magazine. Retrieved from https://magazine.art21.org/2019/08/01/demons-deities-martine-gutierrez/#.YL2cv_kzaiM
  10. Camp, S. M. H. (2015). Black is beautiful: An American history. The Journal of Southern History, 81(3), 675-690. https://www.jstor.org/stable/43918403
  11. Chung, S. (2018). Promotion of 'tolerance' though contemporary arts. The Korean Journal of Art and Media. 17(1), 73-105. doi:10.36726/cammp.2018.17.1.73
  12. Crenshaw, K. (1989). Demarginalizing the intersection of race and sex: A Black feminist critique of antidiscrimination doctrine, feminist theory, and antiracist politics. In N. Lacey (Ed.), Feminist legal theory (pp. 139-167). London: Routledge.
  13. Davis, L. R. (1997). The swimsuit issue and sport: Hegemonic masculinity in sports illustrated. Albany, NY: SUNY Press.
  14. Fellah, N. R. (2020). Martine Gutierrez Indigenous Woman. Aperture, (240), 52-61. https://www.jstor.org/stable/27078366
  15. Grassi, A., Swindells, S., & Wigley, S. (2019). The art foundations of luxury fashion brands: An exploratory investigation. In F. Carlotto & N. McCreesh (Eds.), Engaging with Fashion (pp. 60-74). Leiden: Brill. doi:10.1002/9780470996522.ch16
  16. Gutierrez, M. (2018). Indigenous Woman. New York: RYAN LEE
  17. Hall, S. (1996). Introduction: Who needs 'identity?' In S. Hall & P. du Guy (Eds.), Questions of cultural identity (pp. 1-17). London: Sage.
  18. Herring, C. (2002). Bleaching out the color line? The skin color continuum and the tripartite model of race. Race & Society, 5(1), 17-31. doi:10.1016/j.racsoc.2003.12.002
  19. Hoskins, T. E. (2014). Stitched up: The anti-capitalist book of fashion (Vol. 254). London: Pluto Press.
  20. Hunter, M. L. (2002). "If you're light you're alright" light skin color as social capital for women of color. Gender & society, 16(2), 175-193. doi:10.1177/08912430222104895
  21. Karp-Evans, E. (2019, November 26). Martine Gutierrez questions the commodification of diversity. Cultured. Retrieved from https://www.culturedmag.com/performance-artist-martine-gutierrez-photography-young-artists-2020/
  22. Kim, J. H. (2017, June 7). 비누광고와 인종주의[Soap advertising and racism]. 문화연대. Retrieved from https://culturalaction.org/39/?q=YToyOntzOjQ6InBhZ2UiO2k6MjY7czoxMjoia2V5d29yZF90eXBlIjtzOjM6ImFsbCI7fQ%3D%3D&bmode=view&idx=3851914&t=board
  23. Kim, S. R. (2018). A study on Marlene Dumas's figuration painting: by Judith Butler's concept of Dispossession (Unpublished master's thesis). Myongji University, Seoul.
  24. Kim-Prieto, C., Goldstein, L. A., Okazaki, S., & Kirschner, B. (2010). Effect of exposure to an American Indian mascot on the tendency to stereotype a different minority group. Journal of Applied Social Psychology, 40(3), 534-553. doi:10.1111/j.1559-1816.2010.00586.x
  25. Kondo, D. (1999). Fabricating masculinity: Gender, race, and nation. In About face: Performing face in fashion and theater (pp. 157-86). London: Routledge.
  26. Scott, A. K. (2018, October 20). A trans Latinx artist's highfashion critique of colonialism. Newyorker. Retrieved from https://www.newyorker.com/culture/photo-booth/a-trans-latinx-artists-high-fashion-critique-of-colonialism
  27. Seol, D. (2004). [기획 1-지구적 자본주의와 한국의 이주노동자] 외국인 노동자 문제의 배경[[Project 1-Global capitalism and migrant workers in Korea] Background to the foreign worker problem]. 실천문학, 220-230.
  28. Sheets, H. M. (2021, September 7). A shape-shifting woman plays all the parts. The New York Times. Retrieved from https://www.nytimes.com/2021/08/13/arts/design/MartineGutierrez-bus-shelter-photos.html
  29. Talbot, M. (1995). A synthetic sisterhood. In Gender Articulated. Language and the Socially Constructed Self (pp. 143-165). London: Psychology Press
  30. Twigg, J. (2018). Fashion, the media and age: How women's magazines use fashion to negotiate age identities. European Journal of Cultural Studies, 21(3), 334-348. doi:10.1177/1367549417708432
  31. Reddy-Best, K. L., Kane, L., Harmon, J., & Gagliardi, N. R. (2018). Critical perspectives on fashion textbooks: representations of race, gender, and body. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 11(1), 63-75. doi:10.1080/17543266.2017.1299226
  32. Rivas, M. (2021, January 4). How magazines addressed diversity in 2020 - and what that means for 2021. Fashionista. Retrieved from https://fashionista.com/2021/01/diversity-in-magazines-2020
  33. Rosen, M. (2018, September 22). A trans Latinx artist's incredible high-fashion self-portraits. Vice. Retrieved from https://www.vice.com/en/article/9kvaey/martine-gutierrez-trans-latinx-artist-indigenous-fashion-photography
  34. RYAN LEE Gallery. (2018). Martine Gutierrez: Indigenous Woman. Issuu. Retrieved from https://issuu.com/rlgallery/docs/indigenous_woman
  35. Wang, C. (2019, April 20). Finding the beauty in cultural appropriation. The New York Times. Retrieved from https://www.nytimes.com/2019/04/20/opinion/cultural-appropriation-coachella.html
  36. Wootson, C. R. Jr. (2017, October 9). A Dove ad showed a black woman turning herself white. The backlash is growing. The Washington Post. Retrieved from https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/business/wp/2017/10/08/dove-ad-that-shows-a-black-woman-turning-herself-white-sparks-consumerbacklash/
  37. Verhaeghe, P. (2012). Identiteit [Identity]. Amsterdam: De Bezige Bij.
  38. Vermes, J. (2021, January 1). Why the decades-old Black is Beautiful movement resonates so strongly today. CBC Radio. Retrieved from https://www.cbc.ca/radio/day6/bryan-fogel-s-new-documentary-the-dissident-black-is-beautiful-bruce-springsteen-s-first-manager-and-more-1.5849060/why-the-decades-old-black-is-beautiful-movement-resonates-so-strongly-today-1.5849061
  39. Voltaire (1989). Traite sur la tolerance [Treatise on Tolerance], Paris: GF Flammarion.