Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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The Effect of Low Molecule Collagen Peptide on Skin Anti-glycation and Collagen Synthesis as a Skin Aging Therapy

피부 노화 치료로서 저분자콜라겐펩타이드의 피부 항당화와 콜라겐 합성 효과

  • Kim, Hong Seok (Human Co., Ltd. Skin Research Institute) ;
  • Hong, Won Kyu (Human Co., Ltd. Skin Research Institute) ;
  • Lee, Mun Hoe (Health Food Research and Development, NEWTREE Co., Ltd.) ;
  • Kim, Hyeong Min (Health Food Research and Development, NEWTREE Co., Ltd.) ;
  • Chung, Hee Chul (Health Food Research and Development, NEWTREE Co., Ltd.) ;
  • Lee, Jin Hee (Health Food Research and Development, NEWTREE Co., Ltd.)
  • Received : 2021.04.27
  • Accepted : 2021.06.24
  • Published : 2021.06.30
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Abstract

Collagen hydrolysate (CH) is known to prevent skin aging by stimulating skin dermal fibroblasts to promote synthesis of extracellular matrix such as collagen and elastin. Recently, among the various factors that cause skin aging, advanced glycation end products (AGEs) have received particular attention. However, the effect of CH on AGE accumulation has not been studied. Since CH could affect AGE accumulation by promoting production of skin structural proteins, clinical trial was performed using low molecule collagen peptide (LMCP), which were CH containing 25% tripeptide and 4% Gly-Pro-Hyp. Skin autofluorescence (SAF) values were measured using an AGE reader to evaluate accumulation of AGE in skin. As a result of applying 0.5% and 1.0% LMCP solutions to the subject's forearm for 8 weeks, the SAF value at the test site significantly decreased compared to the control site. Additionally, in vitro test was performed using CCD-986sk to evaluate the promotion of collagen synthesis in skin fibroblasts by LMCP. As a result, 800 ㎍/mL of LMCP significantly increased synthesis of human pro-collagen Iα1 (COL1A1) in CCD-986sk. Through this study, we have confirmed that tropical LMCP applications can promote collagen synthesis to help anti-glycation effects, suggesting that LMCP has potential as an anti-aging cosmetic material.

콜라겐 가수 분해물(collagen hydrolysate, CH)은 피부 진피 섬유아세포를 자극하여 콜라겐과 엘라스틴 같은 세포 외 기질 합성을 촉진함으로써 피부 노화 방지에 도움을 주는 것으로 알려져 있다. 최근 피부 노화를 일으키는 다양한 요인 중 최종당화산물(advanced glycation end products, AGEs)이 주목을 받고 있음에도 불구하고, 아직까지 CH가 AGE축적에 미치는 영향은 연구된 바 없다. CH는 피부 구조단백질의 생성을 촉진하여 AGE 축적에 영향을 줄 수 있으므로, 이를 확인하기 위해 트리펩타이드25%, Gly-Pro-Hyp 4%를 함유한 CH인 저분자콜라겐펩타이드(low molecule weight collagen peptide, LMCP)를 이용하여 임상시험을 수행하였다. 피부 조직 내 AGE 축적량을 평가하기 위해 AGE reader를 사용하여 피부자가형광(skin autofluorescence, SAF) 값을 측정하였다. 0.5%와 1.0% LMCP 용액을 8 주 동안 피험자의 전박에 도포한 결과, 시험부위의 SAF값이 대조부위에 비해 유의하게 감소하였다. 추가적으로, LMCP에 의한 피부섬유아세포의 콜라겐 합성 촉진을 평가하기 위해 CCD-986sk를 이용하여 in vitro test를 수행하였다. 그 결과, 800 ㎍/mL의 LMCP는 CCD-986sk의 human pro-collagen Iα1(COL1A1) 합성을 증가시켰다. 본 연구를 통해 LMCP도포가 콜라겐 합성을 촉진하여 항당화 효과에 도움을 줄 수 있다는 것을 확인하였으며, 이는 LMCP가 노화 방지 화장품 원료로써 잠재력이 있음을 시사한다.

Keywords

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