A Study of the Gwanbok (1^st period) of Meritorious Vassals' Portraits in the Joseon Dynasty

조선시대 공신초상(功臣肖像)의 관복(제1기) 고찰

In this study, the period before the Gwanbok of meritorious vassals' portraits was expressed in the acheongsaek-Heuk-Danryung was defined as the first period, and the costumes worn in portraits of meritorious vassals from Gaeguk (1392) in the early Joseon Dynasty to Jwali (1471) during the era of King Seongjong were reviewed. The portraits(1476) of Jeokgae meritorious vassals (1467) depicted as the Gwanbok of acheongsaek Heuk-Danryung were excluded. Among the copies that are currently considered to be portraits of meritorious vassals belonging to the first period, the portraits of Lee-je, Lee Cheon-woo, Ma Cheon-mok, Shin Suk-ju, Seol Gye-jo, and Lee Sung-won were selected, and the formative characteristics of Gwanbok components were examined. The Samo of Sam-Gongsin in the early Joseon Dynasty had a low height, a rounded end, and the side wings were narrow and short. However, since King Danjong, Jeongnan·Jwali meritorious vassals retained a higher form, and the side wings were twice as long. It was also confirmed that the pattern was not expressed in the side wings. The Danryung was expressed in light-colored Danryung without specific colors at the beginning of the country. After King Sejong, the Heuk-Danryung system for Yebok began, but it was not reflected in the Gwanbok of meritorious vassals' portraits, and was expressed as damhongsaek-Danryung after King Danjong. The pattern was not expressed on the exterior of the Danryung, and inner-wrinkled Mu was expressed on the side line. The Dapho and Cheolrik, the undergarments of the Danryung, were also confirmed as being blue (the Dapho) and green (the Cheolrik) after the Jeongnan meritorious vassals. The early Sam-Gongsin's Pumgye was expressed by rank belt, but as the system of rank badge was established after King Danjong, it began to express the Pumgye by rank badge and rank belt. Among the portraits of meritorious vassals, the rank badge was expressed only in the portrait of Sin Suk-ju, a Jeongnan meritorious vassal. As Hwaja worn on the Danryung, Heuk-hwa were confirmed in the Sam-Gongsin portraits of the early Joseon Dynasty. However, in the portraits of Jeongnan and Jwali meritorious vassals after King Danjong, the Baek-hwa was confirmed. In addition, in the seam parts of the Heuk-hwa and Baek-hwa identified in some portraits of meritorious vassals, Hwi decorated with yeongeumsa were identified, and it was found that the Hwaja decorated with Hwi were the Hyeopgeum-hwa worn by the 3rd rank and above.

연구는 공신초상의 관복 제1기를 하향뿔의 사모와 잡색 단령 시기로 규정하고 성종 7년(1476) 이전에 그려진 조선 초 개국공신(1392)에서 성종 초 좌리공신(1471)까지의 공신초상 관복의 특징을 고찰한 것이다. 관복 제1기에 속하는 공신초상(이모본) 중 이제(개국), 이천우(정사·좌명), 마천목(좌명), 신숙주(정난), 설계조(정난), 그리고 이숭원(좌리) 공신초상 등 관복 표현이 비교적 적절하다고 판단되는 6점을 선정하고 관복 구성품별 조형적 특징을 살펴보았다. 조선 초 삼공신(개국·정사·좌명)의 사모는 모체는 낮고 모정은 둥글며, 사모의 하향각(下向角)은 좁고 짧은 형태였으나 단종대 이후 정난·좌리공신 사모는 모체가 높아지고 사모의 하향각도 두 배 정도로 길어졌다. 그리고 관복 제1기 공신초상의 사모뿔에는 무늬가 표현되지 않은 것으로 확인되었다. 개국 초에는 단령의 색상 규정이 없었으나 대체로 옅은 색의 단령으로 표현되었다. 세종대 이후 예복용 흑단령 제도가 시작되었으나 공신초상 관복에는 흑단령 제도가 반영되지 않았으며 단종대 이후에는 담홍색 단령으로 표현되었다. 단령 겉감에는 무늬가 표현되지 않았으며, 옆트임에는 '안주름무'가 표현되었다. 단령 받침옷 답호와 철릭 역시 통일된 색상은 없었으나 정난공신 이후에는 청색 답호와 초록색 철릭을 착용하는 경향이 확인되었다. 그리고 품대는 공신의 품계를 나타내는 역할을 하였다. 단종대 이후 흉배제도가 제정되었으나 제1기 공신초상 중에는 정난공신 신숙주 초상에서만 유일하게 흉배가 표현되었다. 단령에 신는 화자는 조선 초 삼공신 초상에서는 흑화가 확인되었으나 단종대 이후 정난·좌리공신 초상에서는 백화가 확인되었다. 그리고 일부 공신초상의 흑화와 백화 솔기선 부분에 연금사로 장식한 휘(揮)가 확인되었는데 휘 장식의 화자는 3품 이상이 신던 협금화를 표현한 것임을 알 수 있었다.