Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology (한국응용과학기술학회지)

The Korean Society of Applied Science and Technology (한국응용과학기술학회)
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A Study on the Solubilizing and Emulsifying Action of Tocopheryl Acetate using Plant Surfactant

식물성계면활성제를 사용한 토코페릴아세테이트의 가용화와 유화력에 관한 연구

  • Kim, In-Young (Biobeautech Co., Ltd., Research and Development Center) ;
  • Bae, Bo-Hyeon (Biobeautech Co., Ltd., Research and Development Center)
  • 김인영 ((주)바이오뷰텍 기업부설연구소) ;
  • 배보현 ((주)바이오뷰텍 기업부설연구소)
  • Received : 2020.08.06
  • Accepted : 2020.08.26
  • Published : 2020.08.31
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Abstract

This study is a study on solubilization and emulsifying power of tocopheryl acetate using vegetable surfactants. High purity polyglyceryl-10 isostearate and polyglyceryl-10 oleate were mixed to synthesize a vegetable surfactant with excellent solubilizing power and emulsifying power. The mixed raw material was named Solubil EWG-1100. The appearance of this raw material was a pale yellowish paste with a specific smell, specific gravity of 1.12, and acid value of 0.085. The HLB value of this surfactant was calculated by the Griffin's equation with an average value of 15.17. The behavior of this surfactant to solubilize tocopheryl acetate was mechanically verified. The performance of solubilization was evaluated by a method of visual evaluation and was measured by a transmittance rate at 650 nm using a UV spectrophotometer. As a result, in the formulation using 3% ethanol as a co-solvent, the concentration of surfactant was required to solubilize tocopheryl acetate was required about 5 times of natural surfactant. In the formulation without ethanol as a co-solvent, the concentration of surfactant was required to solubilize tocopheryl acetate required about 7 times of natural surfactant. In addition, the concentration of surfactant required to make an emulsifivation 10 % of tocopheryl acetate was 1 wt% of Solubil EWG-1100, and the emulsified particle size was 3.5 mm in cream formula. In order to obtain stable and fine emulsified particles, it was found that as the concentration of tocopheryl acetate increased, the concentration of Solubil EWG-1100 also was to increase. As a result of testing the solubilizing power of the surfactant according to the pH various change, it showed stable solubilizing power in the acidic region of pH=3.2, the neutral region of pH=7.0, and the alkaline region of pH=11.8. As application, based on these results, it is expected that it can be widely applied to the cosmetics field that develops skin care prescriptions, sensitive skin products, and heavy dry skin products.

이 연구는 식물성 계면활성제를 사용하여 토코페릴아세테이트의 가용화와 유화력에 관한 연구이다. 고순도의 폴리글리세릴-10이소스테아레이트와 폴리글리세릴-10올리에이트를 혼합하여 우수한 가용화력과 유화력을 가진 식물성계면활성제를 합성하였다. 이 혼합원료의 이름을 Solubil EWG-1100으로 칭하였다. 이 원료의 외관은 엷은 노란색의 페이스트, 고유의 냄새를 가지고 있었고, 비중은 1.12, 산가는 0.085이었다. 이 계면활성제의 HLB값은 평균값=15.18로 Griffin식을 통하여 계산하였다. 이 계면활성제가 토코페릴아세테이트를 가용화하는 거동을 메커니즘적으로 검증하였다. 가용화의 성능은 유관으로 평가하는 방법과 UV분광광도계로 650 nm에서 투과도 측정을 통하여 투명도를 평가하였다. 이 결과 3 %의 에탄올을 보조용매로 사용한 처방에서 토코페릴아세테이트를 가용화하는데 필요한 계면활성제의 농도는 가용물의 약 5 배가 필요하였다. 에탄올을 보조용매로 사용하지 않은 처방에서 토코페릴아세테이트를 가용화하는데 필요한 계면활성제의 농도는 가용물의 약 7 배가 필요하였다. 또한 10 %의 토코페릴아세테이트를 유화하는데 필요한 계면활성제의 농도는 1 wt%, 유화입경은 3.5 mm이었다. 안정하고 미세한 유화입자를 얻기 위하여, 토코페릴아세테이트의 농도가 증가할수록, Solubil EWG-1100의 농도도 함께 증가해야 하는 것을 알 수 있었다. pH변화에 따른 계면활성제의 가용화력을 실험한 결과 pH=3.2의 산성영역, pH=7.0의 중성영역, pH=11.8의 알칼리성영역에서도 안정화된 가용화력을 보였다. 이러한 결과를 바탕으로 스킨케어처방, 민감성피부용제품, 악건성피부용 제품을 개발하는 화장품 분야에 폭넓게 응용이 가능할 것으로 기대한다.

Keywords

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