The Research Journal of the Costume Culture (복식문화연구)

The Costume Culture Association (복식문화학회)
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Interpretation of Siberian shaman costume through Roland Barthes's semiotics approach

롤랑 바르트의 기호학 접근을 통한 시베리아 샤먼복식의 해석

  • Liu, Shuai (Dept. of Clothing & Textile, Pusan National University) ;
  • Kwon, Mi Jeong (Dept. of Clothing & Textile, Pusan National University)
  • Received : 2020.10.30
  • Accepted : 2020.12.07
  • Published : 2020.12.31
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Abstract

This study attempts to analyze the social and cultural meanings of the ethnic groups to which different types of shamans belong in Siberia from the appearance characteristics in terms of clothing through Roland Barthes's semiotic theory. The research method here is to analyze three types of shaman costume classified by Holmberg, which are bird-type, deer-type, and bear-type, through theoretical research and to investigate the analysis process of Roland Barthes's semiotics theory. Roland Barthes's approach to semiotics presents an analysis model that can explore the sociocultural meaning of the Siberian shaman costume. The research results are as follows. In the first type, to be closer to the god of the upperworld, shamans transform themselves into birds by decorating their costumes with the characteristic elements of birds such as feathers and wings. In the second type, the shamans' costumes are made of deerskin, and the headdress is shown in the shape of antlers to make it easier to receive messages from the upperworld and run fast in the underworld. In the third type, the shaman's costume is made of bearskin, the head is covered with bearskin, and the body is decorated with bear pendants. Through the power of the bear, the shaman is sent to the underworld to defeat evil gods and remove diseases. Shamans can show their particularity of being a demigod and non-binary gender through clothing. They use this to reflect their authority as a medium of communication between man and god.

Keywords

Acknowledgement

This work was supported by a 2-Year Research Grant of Pusan National University.

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