한국응용과학기술학회지 (Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology)

  • 제36권2호
  • /
  • Pages.592-599
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  • 2019
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  • 1225-9098(pISSN)
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  • 2288-1069(eISSN)
한국응용과학기술학회 (The Korean Society of Applied Science and Technology)
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Study on Application of Skin Care Cosmetic and Stabilization of Idebenone by Forming Niosome Vesicle Technology

  • 투고 : 2019.06.10
  • 심사 : 2019.06.28
  • 발행 : 2019.06.30
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초록

This study is to stabilize insoluble and unstable active ingredient which is Idebenone (INCI name: hydroxydecyl ubiquinone) in a multi-lamellar vesicle (MLV) and to stabilize it in the skin care cosmetics. Idebenone is good effective raw material in the treatment of Alzheimer's disease in the medical field and a powerful antioxidant in dermatology. It is well known as a substance that inhibits the formation of melanin and cleans the skin pigment. However, it did not dissolve in any solvent and it was difficult to apply in cosmetic applications. Niosome vesicle was able to develop a nano-particle by making a multi-layer of idebenone encapsulated with a nonionic surfactant, hydrogenated lecithin and glycine soja (soybean) sterols and passing it through a high pressure microfluidizer. Idebenone niosome vesicle (INV) has been developed to have the ability to dissolve transparently in water and to promote transdermal penetration. The appearance of the INV was a yellowish liquid having specific odor, and the particle size distribution of INV was about 10~80 nm. The pH was 5~8 (mean=6.8). This capsulation with idebenone was stored in a $45^{\circ}C$ incubator for 3 months and its stability was observed and quantitatively measured by HPLC. As a result, the stability of the sample encapsulated in the niosome vesicle (97.5%) was about 66.3% higher than that of the non-capsule sample of 32.5%. Idebenone 1% INV was used for the efficacy test and clinical trial evaluation as follows. The anti-oxidative activity of INV was 38.2%, which was superior to that of 12.8% tocopherol (control). The melanin-reducing effect of B16 melanoma cells was better than INV (17.4%) and Albutin (control) (9.6%). Pro-collagen synthesis rate was 128.2% for INV and 89.3% for tocopherol (control). The skin moisturizing effect was 15.5% better than the placebo sample. The elasticity effect was 9.7% better than the placebo sample. As an application field, INV containing 1% of idebenone is expected to be able to develop various functional cosmetic formulations such as skin toner, ampoule essence, cream, eye cream and sunblock cream. In addition, it is expected that this encapsulated material will be widely applicable to emulsifying agents for skin use in the pharmaceutical industry as well as the cosmetics industry.

키워드

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Fig. 1. Molecular structures of idebenone (INCI name; hydroxydecyl ubiquinone, C19H30O5); M.W: 338.4385 g/mol, IUPAC name: 2-(10-hydroxydecyl)-5,6-dimethoxy-3-methylcyclohexa-2,5-diene-1,4-dione.

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Fig. 2. Preparing method of idebenone noisome vesicle using high pressure microfluidizer.

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Fig. 3. The various stabilizing technologies in skin care formulas of cosmetics; (A) Oil-in-Water (O/W), (B) Water-in-Oil (W/O), (C) Water-in-Oil-in-Water (W/O/W), (D) Niosome vesicles with forming bi-layer.

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Fig. 4. Finished sample of yellowish transparent idebenone noisome vesicle (INV) containing 1% idebenone.

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Fig. 5. Forming pictures of lamellar layer containing idebenone using surfactant lipid; (A): formation of bi-layer of MLV. (B): bi-layer is formed (niosome vesicle).

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Fig. 6. Various nano-particles depend on droplet size using noisome surfactant: (A) solubilizing system, (B): niosome solution of semi-transparent with bi-layer of MLV. (C): transparent niosome nano-particle with idebenone 1% solution.

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Fig. 7. Anti-oxidative effect of idebenone comparing with other control two materials.

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Fig. 8. Moisturizing effect (in-vivo) of cream of SLC BB/CC cream compared with conventional O/W cream; (n=10, 3 times, * P>0.05).

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Fig. 9. B-16 melanoma cell reducing effect (in-vivo) of cream of INV cream compared with arbutin; (n=10, 3 times, * P>0.05).

Table 1. Particle Size Measurements of Several Formulations of Niosome Vesicle with Idebenone 1% Solution

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