한국응용과학기술학회지 (Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology)

  • 제36권4호
  • /
  • Pages.1208-1218
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  • 2019
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  • 1225-9098(pISSN)
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  • 2288-1069(eISSN)
한국응용과학기술학회 (The Korean Society of Applied Science and Technology)
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유기농 식물성 계면활성제의 합성과 베르가못오일에 대한 가용화력에 관한 연구

A Study on Synthesis of Organic Plant Surfactant and Its Solubilizing Action on Bergamot Oil

  • 김인영 ((주)바이오뷰텍 기업부설 연구소) ;
  • 노지민 ((주)바이오뷰텍 기업부설 연구소)
  • Kim, In-Young (Biobeautech Co., Ltd., Research and Development Center) ;
  • Noh, Ji-Min (Biobeautech Co., Ltd., Research and Development Center)
  • 투고 : 2019.12.07
  • 심사 : 2019.12.23
  • 발행 : 2019.12.30
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초록

이 연구는 유기농 식물성 계면활성제의 화장품 가용화력에 관한 연구이다. 유기농으로 인증된 원료를 사용하여 고순도의 폴리글리세릴-10올리에이트와 폴리글리세릴-10스테아레이트를 합성하여 우수한 가용화력을 가진 계면활성제를 개발하였다. 이 혼합원료의 이름을 Solubil ORG-1300으로 칭하였다. 이 원료의 외관은 엷은 노란색의 페이스트이었고, 특이한 고유의 냄새를 가지고 있었다. 비중은 1.15, 산가는 0.072±0.1로 순도가 높았다. 이 계면활성제의 HLB값은 평균값=15.1로 Griffin식을 사용하여 계산하였다. 유기농 가용화제가 향과 오일을 어떻게 가용화되는가를 메커니즘적으로 해석하였다. 가용화 실험은 두 가지 오일에 대하여 성능실험을 통하여 육안으로 판별하고 UV분광광도계로 890nm에서 투과도를 측정하여 투명도를 평가하였다. 이 결과 베르가못오일을 가용화하는데 필요한 계면활성제의 농도는 약 2배정도가 필요한 것으로 나타났다. 또한 토코페릴아세테이트를 가용화하는데 필요한 계면활성제의 농도는 약 8배정도가 필요한 것으로 나타났다. pH변화에 따른 가용화력을 실험한 결과 pH=3.5의 산성영역, pH=7.2의 중성영역, pH=11.5의 알칼리성영역에서도 안정화된 가용화력을 보였다. 화장품의 응용분야로써 보습스킨토너 처방을 성공적으로 개발하였다. 이러한 결과를 바탕으로 스킨케어, 베이비 로션, 민감성 혹은 아토피 피부용 화장품에 폭넓게 응용이 가능할 것으로 기대한다.

The study is on the cosmetic solubilizing power of organic plant surfactants. The blended high purity polyglyceryl-10 oleate and polyglyceryl-10 stearate mixtures were synthesized using organically certified raw materials to develop surfactants having excellent solubilizing power. The mixture is called "Solubil ORG-1300". The appearance of this material is a pale yellowish paste, with a specific odor. The specific gravity was 1.12 and it was high purity that acid value was 0.072±0.1. The HLB value of this natural surfactant was averaged = 15.1 and calculated through the Griffin equation. Mechanically it is explained how organic surfactant are available with fragrance and oils. The solubilizing test was determined by eye evaluation method through the dissolving performance test for the two oils and measured the transmittance at 890 nm using a UV spectrophotometer to measure the transparency. The results showed that the concentration of surfactant needed to make Bergamot oil available requires approximately more 2 times. It was also found that the concentration of surfactant needed to make the tocoperyl acetate available was about 8 times higher. Experiments on the solubility resulting from pH changes showed stabilized usable solubilizing power even in acidic areas of pH=3.5, neutral areas of pH=7.2, and alkaline areas of pH=1.5. Experiments on the solubility according to pH variation showed good solubility stabilized in acidic areas of pH=3.5, neutral areas of pH=7.2, and alkaline areas of pH=11.5. As an application of cosmetics, the company successfully developed a prescription for moisturizing activity based on these results, it is expected that a wide range of applications will be available for skin care, baby lotion, sensitivity or atopic skin cosmetics.

키워드

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