Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology (한국식품과학회지)

Korean Society of Food Science and Technology (한국식품과학회)
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Cutaneous hydration effect of collagen hydrolysate containing collagen tripeptides

콜라겐 트리펩타이드를 고함량으로 함유하는 콜라겐 가수분해물의 피부 보습 효과

  • 김애향 (아미코젠(주) 바이오텍 R&D 센터) ;
  • 김이수 (아미코젠(주) 바이오텍 R&D 센터) ;
  • 박철 (아미코젠(주) 바이오텍 R&D 센터) ;
  • 신용철 (아미코젠(주) 바이오텍 R&D 센터) ;
  • 하민우 (아미코젠(주) 바이오텍 R&D 센터)
  • Received : 2018.04.13
  • Accepted : 2018.06.20
  • Published : 2018.08.31
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Abstract

Skin ageing is associated with compromised performance of its fundamental barrier functions, with undesirable changes in appearance. Since this may introduce a detrimental impact on the quality of life, significant effort to discover effective ingredients against ageing is being invested. Recently, collagen hydrolysates containing tripeptides such as GlyPro-Hyp (GPH) have been developed with anticipation of improved effects compared to that of existing collagen hydrolysate-products. To evaluate the cutaneous hydration effect of collagen tripeptides (CTP), meaningful biomarkers in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) and NC/Nga Tnd mice were analyzed in this study. Increased levels of ceramide kinase, hyaluronic acid, collagen 1A, and hyaluronan synthase-2 (HAS2), and decreased levels of hyaluronidase-1 (HYAL1) and CD44 in HDF cells were demonstrated. Furthermore, significant reduction of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), scratching behavior, HYAL1, $TNF-{\alpha}$ and IL-6 and increased water content and HAS2 were verified by in vivo tests. These results strongly suggest the potential of CTP as a skin hydration agent.

본 연구에서는 식용 어류로부터 얻은 콜라겐을 효소 처리하여 글라이신-프롤린-하이드록시프롤린(Gly-Pro-Hyp, GPH)과 같은 트리펩타이드의 함량이 높은 콜라겐 가수분해물을 얻었고, 이 저분자 콜라겐 가수분해물(이하 콜라겐 트리펩타이드)의 피부 보습효과를 생체 외 실험(in vitro)과 생체 내 실험(in vivo)을 설계하여 증명하고자 하였다. 사람의 피부 섬유아세포 HDF 세포를 자외선 조사를 통해 인위적으로 손상된 세포를 만든 후, 콜라겐 트리펩타이드가 이를 회복시키는 정도를 몇 가지 보습인자의 활성과 발현량으로 확인하였다. Ceramide kinase의 효소활성은 콜라겐 트리펩타이드의 농도에 의존적으로 증가하였고, hyaluronic acid의 농도 역시 유의적으로 증가하였다. 더불어 히알루론산을 합성하는 유전자인 HAS2의 mRNA와 단백질 발현량이 시료의 처리양에 비례하여 증가하였고, 히알루론산을 분해하는 효소인 HYAL1의 수준은 콜라겐 트리펩다이드의 농도에 의존적으로 감소하였다. 상기의 효과는 1형 콜라겐을 합성하는 Collagen 1A 유전자의 단백질 발현량과 피부염증과 종양발생 시 증가한다고 알려진 CD44의 발현량의 확인으로 증명되었다. 유기용매의 도포로 피부건조를 유도한 동물모델을 사용하여 콜라겐 트리펩타이드의 피부에의 유효성을 평가하기 위해 경피수분손실량(TEWL)와 수분함유량을 직접적으로 측정한 바, 콜라겐 트리펩타이드 34 mg/kg bw의 고용량 처리군에서 가장 긍정적인 변화가 확인되었으나 17 mg/kg bw의 콜라겐 트리펩타이드 처리군에서도 수분함량에서 유의적인 변화가 관찰되었다. 이는 피부 건조로 유도된 가려움증에 대하여 동물이 자신의 몸을 긁는 행위를 계수한 결과와 같은 양상을 보였다. 또한 피부가 건조할 시 유도될 수 있는 염증인자인 $TNF-{\alpha}$와 IL-6의 단백질 발현량을 동물 피부 조직을 적출하여 확인하였고, 염색법을 통하여 피부 진피 내 탄력섬유의 변화를 가시적으로 제시하였다. 이 피부 조직에서의 Collagen 1A와 AQP3의 단백질 발현량 및 세라마이드 키나이제, HAS2, 그리고 HYAL1 효소활성 결과는 상기의 누적된 콜라겐 트리펩타이드의 보습 효과를 더불어 증명하여 주었다. 이상의 결과로부터 본 연구의 저자는 콜라겐 트리펩타이드가 피부 보습에 효능을 갖는 소재로서 활용가치가 높음을 알 수 있었으며, 현재 시장에서 유통되고 있는 분자량 1000 Da 이상의 콜라겐 가수분해물보다도 저분자화 되며 트리펩타이드를 다량 함유하는 상기의 소재가 증명된 유효성과 증가된 체내 흡수도에 근거하여 보다 확장된 가능성을 보여줄 수 있을 것이라 판단된다.

Keywords

References

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