Textile Coloration and Finishing (한국염색가공학회지)

The Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers (한국염색가공학회)
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Development of New Surface Design Technique for Natural Dyeing of Silk Fabric by Salt-Shrinkage Finishing

염축가공에 의한 견직물 천연염색의 새로운 표면 디자인 구현기법 개발

  • Kim, Chaeyeon (Department of Clothing and Textiles / Human Ecology Research Institute, Chonnam National University) ;
  • Yoo, Dong Il (Department of Polymer.Fiber System Engineering, Chonnam National University) ;
  • Shin, Younsook (Department of Clothing and Textiles / Human Ecology Research Institute, Chonnam National University)
  • 김채연 (전남대학교 의류학과/생활과학연구소) ;
  • 유동일 (전남대학교 고분자.섬유시스템공학과) ;
  • 신윤숙 (전남대학교 의류학과/생활과학연구소)
  • Received : 2016.08.18
  • Accepted : 2016.09.09
  • Published : 2016.09.27
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Abstract

The objectives of this research were to study the effect of salt-shrinkage finishing of silk on shrinkage degree and dyeing property of cochineal, and to investigate the efficacy of obtained results for imparting surface design effect on silk fabric. Ultimately it was aimed to suggest a technical process for developing natural dyed silk products with diverse design. Premordanted silk fabric was treated with $Ca(NO_3)_2$ solution(gravity: 1.45) at $90^{\circ}C$ for 1 min, washed, dried for further evaluation. The shrinkage of salt-treated fabric was calculated. The effects of salt treatment on the dye uptake of cochineal and colorfastness were investigated. The degrees of shrinkage were 10% and 3% for warp and weft, respectively. The salt treatment resulted in improving dye uptake of cochineal slightly. In addition, it improved colorfastness to washing and light. On the basis of the results, a technical process composed of premordanting, salt treatment and natural dyeing was suggested and using the process, two examples of textile design were presented. It can be concluded to impart various three dimensional surface design effect on silk fabric by applying salt-shrinkage finishing with combination of natural dyeing and mordanting.

Keywords

References

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