복식 (Journal of the Korean Society of Costume)

  • 제66권6호
  • /
  • Pages.46-66
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  • 2016
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  • 1229-6880(pISSN)
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  • 2287-7827(eISSN)
한국복식학회 (The Korean Society of Costume)
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나폴레옹의 초상화를 통한 사상적 조류 변화에 따른 복식 변화 고찰

A Review on the Costume Changes According to Ideological Transition through the Portraitures of Napoleon

  • Bae, Soojeong (Department of Clothing & Textiles, Chonnam National University)
  • 투고 : 2016.05.09
  • 심사 : 2016.06.14
  • 발행 : 2016.09.30
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초록

This thesis aims to analyze the costume changes according to the ideological transition through the portraits of Napoleon Bonaparte. This study selected 32 color pictures of Napoleon, which was taken during his time as a general to his ascension as Emperor (1785-1815). The study qualitatively analyzed the traits and costume elements in view of the items, color and ornaments of the costume, while studying the effects of the ideological transition. The costumes of Napoleon were categorized into three parts: general, governor and Emperor. Firstly, Napoleon most frequently wore the navy uniforms when taking the portraits as a general. The uniform gave Napoleon the image of strength, youth and intelligence, which reflected the ideology of enlightenment. Secondly, the red-colored administrator uniform, combined with a military coat with culotte, was worn to make the governor look intelligent, which would ascribe to the ideological demand of the enlightenment. Lastly, his portraits as emperor showed him in long white tunica, combined with red-colored coronation cape ornamented with embroidery, ermine fur, and the crown of laurel. This costume denoted both the enlightenment and also the neoclassical trend aspiring for the return to the Greek and Roman era. In this way, the portrait of Napoleon might be expected to reflect the periodical change of the ideology through describing the transition of the costumes. It might be evident that his image of the strong general changed to that of an intelligent governor, which was in demand when the enlightenment idea became popular. When Napoleon became the emperor, his image changed into that of a Roman emperor, which implies that neoclassical ideas were used as source of influence.

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참고문헌

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