• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.105-120
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• 2003

Culture and society exist in the present, but they came from the past. So did clothing. As dressing is deeply based on culture pattern of the times, it is affected by various culture patterns and still keeps developing in modern times. This study is intended to examine the features of retro fashion on culture and dressing of the 19th century. The features of retro fashion on Neoclassical and Romantic culture and dressing are objection to the existing pattern, recursion to the past, and creativity characteristic of pattern of those days. Neoclassicism arose as it rejected Baroque and Rococo style, and imitated culture and artistic pattern of Greece and Rome. Romanticism objected to formal and universal pattern of Neoclassicism, and imitated Gothic style while recognizing historical facts and studying medieval times. Dressing in Neoclassicism did not accept exaggerated and luxurious Rococo pattern, and imitated simple, soft and straight silhouette of Greece and Rome and created its unique Empire Style. Romanticism imitated luxurious style of Renaissance, the Middle Ages, Baroque, and Rococo, different from simple and straight neoclassical style during the Bourbon restoration, and created its unique style. Thus, it is shown that retro fashion on Neoclassical and Romantic culture and dressing reflect the style of those days.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.104-104
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• 2001

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.2
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• pp.82-97
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• 2013

The aim of this thesis is to investigate the change of men and women's costumes in late 18th century and early 19th century in view of its ideological streams by examining the portraits of the painter Jacques-Louis David. The method of investigation used was to select 29 pieces of portraits from 1766 to 1825, which showed the clear descriptions about the costumes and to analyze the costume's forms, ornaments and the headdress. The category was divided into 3 stages in terms of the changes in costume. The first stage, from 1766 until 1788, is the one of turnaround from the Rococo costume to the early neoclassical one. The typical Rococo costume was incrementally transformed into a simpler design without ornaments, and then natural silhouette in men and women's costumes started to appear from 1783 until 1788. This might be attributed to the neoclassical trend which was affected by the enlightenment ideology. The second stage, from 1788 until 1795, is the period of change from the costume of the early neoclassic style to the typical neoclassic style and also the time from the 1793 to 1795 was regarded as the peak of neoclassic style when the effect of enlightenment began to decrease while one of neoclassicism exerted its strong influence on the costume. The third stage, from 1795 until 1825, similar to the previous neoclassical style was also notable in its turning into producing the empire dress of Empire style. From 1820 on, it was a period that showed signs of influence from romanticism while the effect of neoclassicism started to become more diminished.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
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• v.42
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• pp.393-418
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• 2016

Raquel, the representative work of Vicente García de la Huerta, an 18th century Spanish playwright achieved theater box-office success and popularity during staging. It has been evaluated by many scholars and critics as the ideal drama that faithfully followed the norms of neoclassicism, which pervaded the aesthetic mainstream at the time. However, the factor that enabled the popular success of this theater production was its ability to harmonize the themes or contents with a traditional play to meet the unique trends and tastes of Spanish viewers who were still appreciated earlier Baroque theater, rather than complying with external norms of neoclassicism such as principle of three unities or exclusion of comic figures etc. That is, Spanish viewers of the time thoroughly rejected theater of neoclassicists who attempted to unilaterally enlighten them while regarding the Baroque theater of earlier times as full of superstition and irrationality, illogic and disorder, regardless of their own dramatic taste. In this situation, Huerta's tragedy Raquel, achieved the harmony of neoclassical tragedy and Spanish theatrical tradition. It thus emphasizes the importance of public support and sponsorship in dramatic success. Traditional dramatic elements shown in Raquel can be summarized as honor, poetic justice and love and these elements are major dramatic codes penetrating the entire Baroque theater of Spain.

• Journal of the Architectural Institute of Korea Planning & Design
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• v.35 no.7
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• pp.73-80
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• 2019

This paper tried to investigate the features of French garden pavillons (jardin pavillons) in the 17th and 18th centuries, in which the royal built them, publicly enjoying culture or privately having a refuge. The scope of the garden pavilions covered those associated with a pleasure place that accommodated performances, dancing, and dinners. They included not only rustic, Chinese, Turkish and Gothic pavilions but also grottos, nymphaeums, and artificial ruins built for banquets and festivals. This paper identified the features of the 17th and 18th century French garden pavilions as follows: Those pavilions firstly established French Neoclassicism, secondly applied the techniques of pastiche, thirdly reflected women's influence, and lastly revealed the short cycles of their vicissitudes. In conclusion this study, with the summary of the main text, explained the influence of the French pavilions on Europe and America.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.824-836
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of women's costumes among the Regency era's elite in the television drama Bridgerton (2020). Its methodology investigates the socio-cultural background and literature on clothing in the Regency era. It also analyzes the formative elements of Daphne's costumes (of the Bridgerton family) and Penelope's costumes (of the Featherington family) representing the upper class. The study reveals that women's costumes had a tubular silhouette consisting of a low neckline, high waistline, and short puffed sleeves. The series expressed well the Regency-era costumes, which were influenced by Neoclassicism and characterized by silk materials, shawls, gloves, belts, a reticule, and hairstyles. Among the formative elements, the Bridgerton and Featherington families' costumes showed distinct differences in color, materials, patterns, accessories, and hairstyles. Daphne's costumes were intelligent and elegant in pastel-toned blues and had small patterns. She carried small accessories and had a natural curled hairstyle. In contrast, Penelope wore decorative and splendid styles in intense colors and large patterns. Her accessories were large and colorful, and she had a strong curled hairstyle. These costumes express the Bridgerton family as aristocratic and the Petringer family as flashy, thereby distinguishing the two families. These research results will be presented as basic data for producing drama costumes in the 19th century to help complete the drama.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.6
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• pp.46-66
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• 2016

This thesis aims to analyze the costume changes according to the ideological transition through the portraits of Napoleon Bonaparte. This study selected 32 color pictures of Napoleon, which was taken during his time as a general to his ascension as Emperor (1785-1815). The study qualitatively analyzed the traits and costume elements in view of the items, color and ornaments of the costume, while studying the effects of the ideological transition. The costumes of Napoleon were categorized into three parts: general, governor and Emperor. Firstly, Napoleon most frequently wore the navy uniforms when taking the portraits as a general. The uniform gave Napoleon the image of strength, youth and intelligence, which reflected the ideology of enlightenment. Secondly, the red-colored administrator uniform, combined with a military coat with culotte, was worn to make the governor look intelligent, which would ascribe to the ideological demand of the enlightenment. Lastly, his portraits as emperor showed him in long white tunica, combined with red-colored coronation cape ornamented with embroidery, ermine fur, and the crown of laurel. This costume denoted both the enlightenment and also the neoclassical trend aspiring for the return to the Greek and Roman era. In this way, the portrait of Napoleon might be expected to reflect the periodical change of the ideology through describing the transition of the costumes. It might be evident that his image of the strong general changed to that of an intelligent governor, which was in demand when the enlightenment idea became popular. When Napoleon became the emperor, his image changed into that of a Roman emperor, which implies that neoclassical ideas were used as source of influence.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.15-23
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• 2007

In the Middle Ages it was customary to cover up the hair, but the Renaissance brought uncovered coiffures with the revival of humanism. In those days, silk and linen veil, ribbon, string of pearl used for covering, wrapping round with the hair. During the Baroque period, the style of hair was to pursue the beauty of imbalance in form, reflecting the atmosphere of the time. Hurluberlu and Fontanges hairstyles were in fashion. Then in the Rococo period, huge, resplendent coiffures of exquisite beauty were invented as a symbol of power, and these modes of hairdo were a dominant force in the culture of personal adornment of that time. Pouf and enfant hairstyles were in fashion. As a reaction against the extravagance of the proceding modes, late 18th and early 19th centuries brought revival of simpler hairstyles of ancient Greece and Rome by the influence of neoclassicism. The latter half of the 1820's onwards saw he reappearance of voluminous coiffures as well as an enormous variation of knots with combinations of false knots and chignons. Late 19th through early 20th centuries was the period of beautifully waved hair, the style of which was an integration of Marcel waves and Art Nouveau. The 20th century saw the epoch-making invention of permanent waves using electricity. Concurrently, with an increasing participation of women in social affairs since pre-and post-World War I periods, as well as with Art Deco in full flourish, bobbed hair was created in pursuit of lightness and nimbleness, quickly showing the change of women's modes of life. Hair fashions thoroughly embody the aesthetic sense of each period, reflecting the landscape of contemporary society.

• Cartoon and Animation Studies
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• s.49
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• pp.589-610
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• 2017

This study aimed at examining the music world of the composer Muczynski, who played an important and meaningful role in the various experimental trends of music which began to appear in the early $20^{th}$ century, and his works, thereby understanding his relationship with the development of music of various genres today. In the study, his pieces of piano music among his works, which formed the basis for his music, were analyzed. The study examined stylistic characteristics, that is techniques of various types including form, melody, harmony, tonality, rhythm and structure, and introduced the composer's growth in terms of music and philosophical background. Muczynski, the composer who showed the characteristics of neoclassicism, neoromanticism and neobaroque in contrast to the various forms of the $20^{th}$ music, namely music of free styles including atonal music, twelve-tone technique, avant-garde music and electronic music, used traditional forms. However, the characteristics of his works are very free. In addition, in the 1960s, he participated in the production of documentary movie music, creating very creative and sensational music. Muczynski's music has the features of tonality and shows neoclassic and neoromantic features including economical idea, lyrical melody, bitonality and nine-note scale. His music, therefore, is being evaluated as very creative and valuable and is largely significant in that it has provided a good basis for the development of modern movie music and jazz music today.