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A Study on the Moisturizing Effect and Preparation of Liquid Crystal Structures Using Sucrose Distearate Emulsifier

슈크로오스디스테아레이트를 사용한 액정구조의 생성과 보습효과에 관한 연구

  • Kwak, Myeong-Heon (Dept. of Herbal Cosmetic Science, The Research Institute for basic Sciences Hoseo University) ;
  • Kim, In-Young (Skin Science R&D Center, Biobeautech Co., Ltd.) ;
  • Lee, Hwan-Myung (Dept. of Herbal Cosmetic Science, The Research Institute for basic Sciences Hoseo University) ;
  • Park, Joo-Hoon (Dept. of Herbal Cosmetic Science, The Research Institute for basic Sciences Hoseo University)
  • 곽명헌 (호서대학교 생명보건과학대학 한방화장품과학과, 기초과학연구소) ;
  • 김인영 ((주)바이오뷰텍 기업부설연구소) ;
  • 이환명 (호서대학교 생명보건과학대학 한방화장품과학과, 기초과학연구소) ;
  • 박주훈 (호서대학교 생명보건과학대학 한방화장품과학과, 기초과학연구소)
  • Received : 2016.01.28
  • Accepted : 2016.02.17
  • Published : 2016.03.30

Abstract

This study is to make the liquid crystalline structure using sucrose distearate (Sucro-DS) emulsifier to create the hydrophilic type oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, the droplets of the emulsion having a structure of a multi-lamellar structure. We have studied the physicochemical properties of Sucro-DS using those techniques. And it has been studied in the emulsion performance. In order to form the liquid crystalline structure applying 3 wt% of Sucro-DS, 5 wt% of glycerin, 5 wt% of squalane, 5 wt% of capric/caprylic triglyceride, 3wt% of cetostearyl alcohol, 1wt% of glyceryl mono-stearate, 78 wt% of pure water in mixture having the lamellar structure of stable multi-layer system was found to formed. By applying them, they were described how to create an unstable active material encapsulated cream. Further, the moisturizing cream was studied using this technique. It reported the results to the skin improvement effect by the human clinical trials. The pH range to produce a stable liquid crystal phase using a Sucro-DS was maintained in 5.2~7.5. In order to increase the stability of the liquid crystal, it was when behenyl alcohol containing 3 wt%, the hardness at this time was 13 kg/mm,min. Viscosity of the same amount was 25,000mPas/min. After a test for the effects of the emulsions, the concentration of 6 wt% Sucro-DS is that was appropriate, the particle size of the liquid crystal was 4~6mm. It was observed through a microscope analysis, reliability of the liquid crystal changes for 3 months was found to get stable at each $4^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$ and $45^{\circ}C$. In clinical trial test, before applying a moisturizing effect it was $13.4{\pm}7%$. Moisturizing cream liquid crystal was not formed in $14.5{\pm}5%$. Therefore, applying than ever before could see the moisture about 8.2% was improved. On the other hand, it was the moisturizing effect of the liquid cream is $19.2{\pm}7%$. The results showed that 43.3% improvement than that previously used. Applications fields, Sucro-DS emulsifier used liquid cream, lotion, eye cream and a variety of formulations can be developed, as well as the cosmetics industry is expected to be wide fields in the application of the external preparation for skin emulsion technology in the pharmaceutical industry and pharmaceutical industry.

이 연구는 슈크로오스디스테아레이트(Sucro-DS)를 사용하여 친수형 O/W 에멀젼을 만들고, 이 에멀젼의 드로플렛(droplet)은 다중층의 구조를 가지는 액정생성에 관한 것이다. Sucro-DS의 물리화학적 특성을 알아보았고, 이를 이용한 유화성능에 대하여 연구하였다. 액정을 형성하기 위하여 3wt%의 Sucro-DS, 5wt%의 글리세린, 5wt%의 수쿠알란, 5wt%의 카프릭/카프릴릭트리글리세라이드, 3wt%의 세토스테아릴알코올, 1wt%의 글리세릴모노스테아레이트, 78wt%의 정제수의 혼합계에서 안정한 다중층의 라멜라구조가 형성됨을 알 수 있었다. 이를 응용하여 불안정한 활성물질을 봉입한 크림을 만드는 방법에 대하여 기술하였다. 또한, 이 기술을 이용한 크림의 보습효과에 대하여 연구하였다. 인체 임상시험을 통한 피부개선효과에 대하여 연구한 결과를 보고한다. Sucro-DS 를 사용하여 안정한 액정상을 생성하는 pH 범위는 5.2~7.5 에서 안정한 액정구조를 유지하고 있었다. 액정의 안정성이 우수한 농도는 3wt%의 베헤닐알코올을 함유할 경우의 경도는 13kg/mm,min 이었다. 동일 함량의 점도는 25,000mPas/min 이었다. 유화제의 영향에 대하여 실험한 결과, Sucro-DS 의 농도는 5wt%가 적합하였고, 안정한 액정의 입경분포는 4~6mm 이었다. 이를 현미경분석을 통하여 관찰하였고, 3 개월동안 액정변화의 안정성은 $4^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, $45^{\circ}C$에서 안정함을 알 수 있었다. 임상시험으로, 바르기 전의 보습력은 $13.4{\pm}7%$ 이었다. 액정이 형성되지 않은 크림의 보습력은 $14.5{\pm}5%$로 바르기 전보다는 약 8.2% 보습력이 상승하였다. 반면, 액정크림의 경우 $19.2{\pm}7%$로, 도포 전보다는 43.3%보습력이 상승하였다. 응용분야로 Sucro-DS 유화제를 사용한 액정크림, 로션, 아이크림 등 다양한 제형개발이 가능하고, 화장품산업은 물론 의약품산업 및 제약산업에서 피부외용제의 유화기술로 폭넓게 응용이 가능할 것으로 기대한다.

Keywords

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