Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Cell Protective Effects of Enzymatic Hydrolysates of Citrus Peel Pectin

귤피 펙틴 유래 효소적 가수분해물의 세포 보호 효과

  • Kwon, Soon Woo (Hanbul Cosmetics Corporation Technical Research Center) ;
  • Ko, Hyun Ju (Hanbul Cosmetics Corporation Technical Research Center) ;
  • Bae, Jun Tae (Hanbul Cosmetics Corporation Technical Research Center) ;
  • Kim, Jin Hwa (Hanbul Cosmetics Corporation Technical Research Center) ;
  • Lee, Geun Soo (Hanbul Cosmetics Corporation Technical Research Center) ;
  • Pyo, Hyeong Bae (Hanbul Cosmetics Corporation Technical Research Center)
  • Received : 2015.12.23
  • Accepted : 2016.03.15
  • Published : 2016.03.30
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Abstract

Pectin, a naturally occurring polysaccharide, has in recent years attracted considerable attention. Its benefits are increasingly appreciated by scientists and consumers due to its safety and usefulness. The chemistry and gel-forming characteristics of pectin have enabled to be used in pharmaceutical industry, health promotion and treatment. Yet, it has been rarely used in cosmetics because of its incompatibility with many cosmetic ingredients, including alcohols, and unstable viscosity of pectin gels under various pH and salt conditions. However, low-molecular-weight pectin oligomers have excellent biological activities, and depolymerization of pectin to produce cosmetic ingredients would be very useful. In this study, we attempted the development of cosmetic ingredients using pectin with an excellent effect on human skin. We developed a bio-conversion process that uses enzymatic hydrolysis to produce pectin hydrolysates containing mainly low-molecular-weight pectin oligomers. Gel permeation chromatography was used to determined the ratio of hydrolysis. The molecular weight of the pectin hydrolysates obtained varied between 200 and 2,700 Da. The two newly developed low-molecular-weight pectin hydrolysates, LMPH A and B, had higher anti-oxidative activities than pectin or D-galacturonic. Exposure to UVB radiation induces apoptotic cell death in epidermal cells. Annexin V binding and propidium iodide uptake were measured by flow cytometry to evaluate UVB-induced cell death in HaCaT cells. Both LMPH A and B reduced UVB-induced cell death and increased cell proliferation by 22% and 30% at 0.5% concentration respectively, while pectin had no significant activity. In conclusion, this study suggests that the newly developed low-molecular-weight pectin hydrolysates can be used as safe and biologically active cosmetic ingredients.

Pectin은 식물 세포벽의 주요성분으로 과실이나 채소류의 세포막이나 세포막 사이의 엷은 층에 존재하며, 고점도의 수용성 다당체로 염과 pH에 의한 점도 변화가 심하며, 알코올류와 만나 gelation 되는 특징을 가지고 있다. 식품분야에서 펙틴은 점도의 증가 및 겔 형성제로 사용되어 왔으나, 화장품 분야에서는 그 사용이 극히 제한적이었다. 본 연구에서는 pectin 효소 분해물의 분해 정도 및 분자량 분포를 정확히 확인하기 위해, HPLC (GPC)를 이용한 분석 조건을 확립하였으며, 생물 전환 공정을 통해 저분자량 pectin oligomer가 형성되는 것을 확인하였다. 그리고, 2종의 효소에 대한 저분자량 pectin oligomer 생산 최적 조건 실험을 진행하여 최적 생산 조건을 확립하였으며, 이로 부터 제조한 pectin 효소분해물에서 저분자량 pectin oligomer를 선별적으로 분리하는 공정도 개발하였다. 이러한 공정을 통해 제조된 저분자량 pectin oligomer 소재 LMPH A 와 B는 약 200 ~ 2,700 Da 정도의 분자량 분포를 가지는 것으로 확인되었다. LMPH A와 B의 생리활성을 확인한 결과, 2종 모두 항산화 활성을 보였다. 게다가, 이들이 pectin 및 D-galacturonic acid 보다 상대적으로 우수하며, 농도의존적으로 증가함을 보였다. 또한 자외선(UVB)에 의한 피부세포의 광손상 및 이로 인한 apoptosis를 방어하는 효과를 나타내었다. 세포 활성화 효과 측정결과는 LMPH A, B 모두 0.025% 이상의 농도에서 세포 활성화 효과를 보였으며, 농도가 0.5%에 이를 때까지 농도 의존적으로 증가하는 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 특히, LMPH B의 경우, 0.5% 농도에서 약 30%, LMPH A도 약 22%의 매우 우수한 세포 활성화 효과를 가지는 것으로 확인되었다. 결론적으로, 본 연구를 통해 개발된 2종의 LMPH가 우수한 생리활성과 동시에 우수한 안전성을 보임으로써, 향후 화장품 소재로 응용 가능성이 매우 높을 것으로 기대된다.

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References

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