패션비즈니스 (Journal of Fashion Business)

  • 제19권4호
  • /
  • Pages.135-152
  • /
  • 2015
  • /
  • 1229-3350(pISSN)
  • /
  • 2288-1867(eISSN)
한국패션비즈니스학회 (The Korean Society of Fashion Business)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

메종 마르지엘라의 디자인 코드 분석 -체크리스트법을 중심으로-

The Analysis of the Maison Margiela's Design Code -Focusing on the Checklist Method-

  • 투고 : 2015.06.05
  • 심사 : 2015.07.13
  • 발행 : 2015.09.30
PDF 다운로드
⟨ 이전 논문 다음 논문 ⟩

초록

The purpose of this study is to explore the role of deconstruction and creative destruction in Maison Margiela’s fashion design code, which has opened the door to a new wave of innovative design since 1988. Using a combination of theoretical analysis, precedent research, and a review of existing literature, five years of Maison Margiela's works (2010-2014) were evaluated. The analysis shows that Maison Margiela’s Design Code consists of the following key elements: Addition, Extension, Asymmetry, Elimination, Deconstruction, Complanation, and Inversion. Addition refers to act of attaching additional pieces of fabric or clothing on the existing piece. Extension refers to the act of extending the design elements, such as their position or features. Asymmetry means the irregular positioning of left-to right and front-to-back length and features. Deconstruction could be seen in intentionally frayed sleeves, open seams, and tears in the cloth. The element of Elimination was evident in the removal of key pieces of clothing such as a coat, pants, blouse, and a jacket. Complanation refers to the reversion to a two dimensional contemplation of the human form rather than the more obvious 3-dimensional form. Finally, Inversion was used by displaying an inner layer of clothing on the outside or exposing seams or zippers in a way that people are not accustomed to seeing. It also meant that the order of wearing clothes was sometimes inverted, so external layers would be worn within clothing that are traditionally underneath. Maison Margiela’s creations represented a break

키워드

참고문헌

  1. Broadbent, G. (1973). Design in architecture: Architecture and the human science. London, New York: John Wiley & Sons. 344.
  2. Checklist. (2011, March, 09). Naver. Retrieved April 06, 2015. from http;//kin.naver.com/open100/
  3. Cho, E. J. (2001). Neo Avangarde of Belgium Fashion(Unpublised master's thesis). Jeju University. Jeju-do, Korea. 21. 54-55.
  4. Derycke, L., & Van De Veire, S. (1999). Begian Fashion Design. Belgium: Ludion Ghent-Amsterdam. 288, 292.
  5. Do, K. H. (1995). A Methodological Study on the Developing process of Costume Designs applied to the Method Idea Abduction(Unpublished doctorial dissertation). Yeungnam University. Korea. 216-217.
  6. Jang, J. L. & Lee, Y. H. (2006). Deconstruction Fashion Expressed in the Work of Martin Margiela. The Journal of the Korean Society of Knit Design, 4(1), 64-77.
  7. Jang, R. Y. & Sook, H. Y. (2011). Fashion Communication and Exhibition Project. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 19(6), 1313.
  8. Jung, S. Y. (2011). A Study on the Ethical Fashion in Martin Margiela's Works(Unpublised master's thesis). Sungshin Woman's University. Seoul, Korea. 40, 42-43.
  9. Kang, M. J. (2011). The Development of a Modern Fashion Design motivated form Traditional Cloud Pattern(Unpublised master's thesis). Gachon University. Gyeonggi-do, Korea. 31.
  10. Kim, M. C. & Lim, J. Y. (2012). Trend of Checklist Method Type in Trench Coat Design. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 62(7), 816, 814-827.
  11. Kim, Y. J. (1998). Comprehension of the Aesthetics of Clothing. Seoul: Gyeongchunsa. 28.
  12. Kong, M. S. (2003). A Study on the Expansion Methodology of Creative Fashion Design(Unpublished doctorial dissertation). Sookmyung Woman's University. 48-59.
  13. Label of Martin Margiela. (2013). thedillychic. Retrived October 21, 2014. from http://thedillychic.com/2013/02/tribute-to-martin-margiela-2-his-early-works-concepts-stores-and-team/
  14. Lee, J. J. & Park, E. K. (2006). Life Style & Trend. Seoul: Yektung. 108.
  15. Lee, S. H. (2001). A Study of Modern Belgium Fashion Designer(Unpublised master's thesis). Sungshin Woman's University. Seoul, Korea. 27.
  16. Lee, Y. K. (2006). A Research on the Conception of the Fashion Design Analyzed by Checklist Method(Unpublished master's thesis). Kookmin University. Seoul, Korea. 5-21.
  17. Lim, Y. W. (1986). The Theory Of Modern Design. Seoul: Whakmunsa. 64-66.
  18. Lim, Y. W. (2000). The Study Of Design Method. Seoul: Mijinsa. 64.
  19. Martin Margiela. (2008, July 16). independent. Retrieved October 21, 2014. from http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/features/martin-margiela-fashions-invisible-superstar-868562.html
  20. Martin Margiela. (2014). wikipedia. Retrieved October 21, 2014. from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Margiela
  21. Martin Margiela. (2014). wikipedia. Retrieved October 23, 2014. from http://ko.m.wikipedia.org/
  22. Margiela, M. M.(author), Gaultier, J. P., Frankel, S., Putman, A. & 3 more(contributor). (2009). Masion Martin Margiela. New York: Rizzoli.361.
  23. Margiela, M. M. (2013). Martin Margiela: Street Special 1 & 2. Paris: Street editoria office; First thus edition. 42.
  24. Minjungseorim. (ed.). (2006). Korean Language Dictionary(Rev. ed.). Gyeonggi-do: Minjungseorim co. ISBN: 978-89-387-0143-5. 1149, 2871, 1212, 1299, 2690, 2192.
  25. Nam, M. Y., Kim, Y. K. & Lee, K. H. (2012). The Formative Characteristic of Creative Fashion Design by the Checklist. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 36(8), 849-859. https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2012.36.8.849
  26. Oh, N. R. (2009). A Study on Fashion Design Process that utilized Creativity Technique(Unpublished doctorial dissertation). Sungshin Woman's University. Seoul, Korea. 33. 36-93.
  27. Lee, K. H. & Lee, E. R. (2008). Fashion Design plus Conception. Seoul: Kyomunsa.
  28. Sin, H. N. & Lee, M. S. (2010). Woman's Body in the Fashion of John Galiano and Martin Margiela. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 60(7), 14-30. 28-29.
  29. Yeom, S. H. (2000). Paradigm of Modern Fashion. Seoul: Gyeongchunsa. 37.
  30. Yun, J. Y. (2001). A Comparative Study of Christian Dior and Martin Margiela Terms of Iconology. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 59(5), 115-134.