Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Use of Oil Red O Staining Method in Non-Comedogenic Test for Cosmetics

화장품의 면포 비유발 평가에서 오일 레드 오 염색법의 응용

  • Received : 2013.04.23
  • Accepted : 2013.06.12
  • Published : 2013.09.30
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Abstract

It has been reported that certain ingredients added to cosmetics clog the skin pores and this can cause outbreaks of comedones which are the primary sign of acne leading to inflammatory acne. This research aims to establish objective evaluation criteria for non-comedogenic cosmetics suitable for acne prone skin. The research has been carried out to examine non-comedogenic test performed in foreign clinical institutions and to establish the evaluation method for detecting comedones outbreaks through repetitive closed back-patch test, Also, usability evaluation on face skin is performed additionally to the same subjects. The analysis of the comedones collected through repetitive closed back-patch test confirmed that the test products, moisturizer and sunscreen product, did not cause comedones. These results had no correlation with the analysis result of the comedones collected from face skin or visual evaluation of acne by Global Acne Grading System (GAGS) in face usability test. Additionally, Oil red O staining was performed on the collected comedones specimen for easy distinction of comedones from hair follicle in image analysis. The analysis result of stained specimen showed higher precision than that of non-stained specimen. This study established a new version of non-comedogenic test for cosmetics, whose objectivity and reliability were improved by inclusion of comedones staining step.

화장품에 배합되는 원료 중에 피부 모공을 막아 여드름의 초기단계인 면포를 유발함으로써 염증성 여드름으로 악화시키는 사례가 보고되고 있다. 본 연구는 '여드름 피부에 사용이 적합한' 면포 비유발성 화장품의 객관적인 평가 기준을 마련하고자 하였다. 외국 임상기관에서 실시하고 있는 non-comedogenic test를 조사하고 등 상부 반복 폐쇄 첩포를 통해 면포 유발 평가방법을 확립하고자 연구를 수행하였다. 또한 안면부 사용성 시험을 동일 피험자에게 추가로 진행하였다. 등 상부 반복 폐쇄 첩포를 통해 면포를 채취하여 분석한 결과 시험시료로 사용한 보습제와 자외선 차단제가 면포를 유발하지 않음을 확인할 수 있었고, 동일한 시험제품을 안면부에 사용하여 얻은 면포 유발 결과와 Global acne grading system (GAGS)의 여드름 육안평가 결과는 상관관계가 없었다. 또한 사진 판독을 통해 분석하는 면포와 모낭의 구별을 용이하게 하기 위해 면포 채취 표본에 Oil red O staining을 실시하였다. 염색을 한 경우의 표본이 염색을 하지 않은 표본과 비교하여 결과 간 높은 일치도를 확인하였다. 본 연구에서는 Oil red O staining을 통해 객관성과 신뢰성을 증진시킨 새로운 버전의 화장품 면포 비유발성 평가법을 확립하였다.

Keywords

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