Beauty Food Activities of Isolated Phenolic Compounds from Ulmus pumila

유근피(Ulmus pumila)로부터 분리한 페놀성물질의 미용식품활성

Phenolic compounds of $17.9{\pm}1.0mg/g$ were extracted from Ulmus pumila with 70% ethanol. The elastase inhibitory activity related with forming wrinkle was shown an excellent wrinkle improvement effect in 70% ethanol extracts as 55.5-69.5% at phenolic concentration of $50-200{\mu}g/mL$. The tyrosinase inhibitory activity related with skin-whitening was 24% in 70% ethanol extracts at phenolic concentration of $200{\mu}g/mL$. The astringent activity of 70% ethanol extracts was shown activity of 71% at phenolic concentration of $200{\mu}g/mL$ therefore it is judged that there is a high effect on pores reduction of the skin. The hyaluronidase inhibitory activity of U. pumila extracts was confirmed anti-inflammation effect of 80% at phenolic concentration of $50{\mu}g/mL$. Antimicrobial activity of U. pumila water extracts was shown each 8.7, 10.0, 11.1 and 11.8 mm clear zones on Propionebacterium acnes at phenolic concentration of $50-200{\mu}g/mL$. The stability of the multi-functional cosmetic (lotion) added U. pumila extracts was very stable for 28 days without changing of pH and viscosity also it's stable on temperature and sun lights. As the concentration of extracts was increased, the color of lotion was getting dark, but the sensory evaluation was high at score of 8.5.

유근피에 함유된 페놀성 물질은 70% ethanol을 용매로 하여 추출하였을 때 $17.9{\pm}1.0mg/g$이 용출되었다. 주름 생성과 관련된 elastase 저해 활성은 $50-200{\mu}g/mL$ phenolics 농도의 70% ethanol 추출물에서 55.5-69.5%의 제해효과를 확인할 수 있었다. 유근피 추출물의 미백효과와 관련된 tyrosinase 저해활성은 $200{\mu}g/mL$ phenolics 농도의 70% ethanol 추출물에서 24%의 저해효과가 측정되었다. Astringent 활성은 $200{\mu}g/mL$ phenolics 농도의 70% ethanol 추출물에서 71%의 활성을 나타내어 모공축소 효과가 높을 것으로 판단되었다. 유근피 추출물의 hyaluronidase 저해활성은 $50{\mu}g/mL$ phenolics의 농도에서 80%의 염증억제 효과가 확인되었다. 유근피 추출물의 항균활성은 물 추출물의 경우 $50-200{\mu}g/mL$의 phenolics 농도에서 Propionibacterium acnes에 대한 항균활성이 각각 8.7, 10, 11.1 및 11.8 mm의 clear zone이 확인되었다. 유근피 추출물을 첨가하여 제조한 복합 기능성 화장품(로션)의 안정성은 28일 동안 pH 및 점도의 변화가 없었고, 온도 및 광에 대하여 안정하였다. 제조한 로션은 추출물의 첨가 농도가 증가함에 따라 색도는 어둡게 나타났으나, 사용감면에서 8.5점 정도의 좋은 점수를 나타내었다.