Design and Symbolism of Underwear Shown in Movie Costumes -Focusing on Historical Dramas Set in Europe between the $16^{th}$ and the $18^{th}$ Century-

영화의상에 표현된 언더웨어의 디자인과 상징성 -16세기부터 18세기까지 유럽 배경의 시대극을 중심으로-

  • Received : 2011.08.18
  • Accepted : 2011.10.04
  • Published : 2011.10.31

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to investigate the underwear design shown in historical dramas set in Europe between the $16^{th}$ and the $18^{th}$ century, woman's bodies were highly restricted, in order to analyze the symbolism of the movie costume and provide basic data for the future education of the department of movie costume design. For a study method, literature relating to movie costumes and underwear as well as captured images from 29 historical dramas set in Europe between the $16^{th}$ and the $18^{th}$ century was reviewed. Among them, data from 17 movies where underwear and crinoline were observed was analyzed. Historical movies, set in the $18^{th}$ century Europe exposed underwear more frequently and decisively than movies set in the $16^{th}$ and $17^{th}$ centuries. For the figure wearing underwear, its expression effect was maximized by the implication function of costumes. Underwear can easily express the time and space background and symbolize the character's social and economic position, attitudes, and values. In addition, the exposure of underwear can reveal characters' internal expressions, such as mental status, taste, temper, intention, mood, time and space display. The result of observing the underwear shown in movies reveals that underwear plays a subjective role in expressing ideal femininity as a woman of a particular age, modesty, social position symbolism and eroticism that depended on the situation. It is expected that the study will provide an opportunity to reconsider the function of underwear, which is different from the meaning of costume history, and its role as a means of communication by considering the change of underwear by age.

Keywords

References

  1. 김희선 (2007). "로코코시대의 의상과 헤어스타일에 관한 연구." 한국메이크업디자인학회지 3권3호.
  2. 남후선, 김순영 (2005). 영화로 보는 복식사 . 서울:경춘사.
  3. 베아트리스 퐁타넬 (2004). 치장의 역사 . 김보현 역.서울: 김영사.
  4. 辻原康夫(2007). 문화와 역사가 담긴 옷 이야기 . 이윤혜 역. 서울: 혜문서관.
  5. 有馬澄子(1996). "INFRA-APPARELと現代衣生活."衣生活 Vol. 39, No. 6.
  6. 이경기 (1995). 재미있는 영화이야기 . 서울: 삼호미디어.
  7. 이승구, 이용관 (1990). 영화용어해설집 . 서울: 영화진흥공사.
  8. 이의정, 김소영 (2001). 언더웨어. 서울: 교학연구사.
  9. 잉겔로게 에버펠트 (2009). 유혹의 역사 . 강희진 역.서울: 미래의 창.
  10. 정경희 (2004). "현대패션에 응용된 후프에 관한 연구." 전남대학교 대학원 석사학위논문.
  11. 한양대학교 연극영화과 (2000). 영화예술의 이해. 서울: 한양대학교 출판부.
  12. FIME. Penny Rose (2005 [Retrieved July 5, 2011]); available from world wide web@http://www.film. com/movies/
  13. Hart, Avril and Susan North (2002). Historical Fashion in Detail: The 17th and 18th Century. London: V&A Publication.
  14. Koda, Harold (2001). Extreme Beauty: The Body Transformed. N.Y.: Metropolitan museum of Art.
  15. Martin, Richard and Harold Koda (1996). 인프라 의상 . 이선재역. 서울: 경춘사.
  16. MOVIST. The Libertine (2007 [Retrieved May 23, 2011]); available from world wide web@http://www. movist.com/
  17. SOEN EYE (1997). no.28. 東京: 文化女子大學ファッ ション情報硏究所.
  18. Story search, Marie Antoinette (2008 [Retrieved July 29, 2009]; available from world wide web@http:// www.storysearch.co.kr/
  19. The Story of a Murderer (2007 [Retrieved September 24, 2009]); available from world wide web@http:// storier.egloos.com/
  20. Tortora, Phyllis and Keith Eubank (1994). Survey of Historic Costume. New York: Fairchild pub.
  21. Waugh, Norah (1998). Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Routledge.
  22. Wikipedia, corset, (2008 [Retrieved July 16, 2009]); available from world wide web@http://en.wiki pedia.org/
  23. Yarwood, Doreen (1986). The Encyclopedia of World Costume. N.Y.: Bonanza Books.