한국의상디자인학회지 (Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association)
- 제11권2호
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- Pages.75-84
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- 2009
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- 1229-7240(pISSN)
테일러드 재킷 봉제방법 비교 연구 - 의복구성 교재를 중심으로 -
A Comparative Study on the Sewing Teaching of Tailored Jacket
- Shin, Jang-Hee (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Sookmyung Women's University) ;
- Sohn, Hee-Soon (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Sookmyung Women's University)
- 발행 : 2009.09.30
초록
The following research analyzed the sewing teaching of the tailored jacket shown in fashion textbooks, which are currently used in universities and educational organizations in the fashion industry. To analyze the sewing teaching of tailored jackets, we analyzed 35 textbooks in the market. Among them we used 14 textbooks which dealt with the patter formation method of tailored jackets, and cutting and sewing methods. First, the stitching direction and the location of attachment varied. The type of sticking tape and its position also differed, emphasizing the need to make an institutionalized education material which is based on the characteristic of the fabric and its silhouette. Second, controlling the ease length of the right side sewing princess line, or information about the shoulder line and sleeve line of the notch as not specifically shown in the textbooks. Furthermore, not many textbooks showed how to pull the lower part of the texture out of sight, nor did they explain why this needed to be done. Third, the lining is usually slightly larger than the outer texture of the clothing, as the lining is usually tugged in the sewing process, and this method makes the clothes more comfortable. The method of sewing the princessline