Characteristic Analysis and Dating Guidance of European High Heeled Shoes Design in the 18th Century

18세기 하이힐 디자인의 특성 및 연대추정에 관한 연구

  • Kim, Sun-Ah (School of Coordination Design, Hyechon College)
  • 김선아 (혜천대학 코디네이션디자인계열)
  • Received : 2008.01.22
  • Published : 2008.04.30

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristic analysis and to date guidance of European high heeled shoes in 18th century. The research was conducted by stylistic analysis of high heeled shoes from literature review and museums resource. 14 comparative study on shoe objects dating from 1600-1790 in the Museum at F.I.T., New York, Museum of Art, Boston and Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York were selected. The result of this study are as follows: (1) The origin and development of high heeled shoes were accomplished by protection, social status and exaggeration of body, decoration and fashion. (2) According to the comparative study of Museum objects and literature, characteristic analysis of high heeled shoes from 1700-20s, 1730-40s, 1750-60s, 1770-89 and 1890-1900 were accomplished. (3) Significant elements of European women's shoes from 18th century that aid dating are identified as the presence of white rand, shape of tongue, heel shape and height, latchat, toe shape, color and materials.

Keywords

References

  1. 권현주 (2000) 동서양 신발의 비교 연구. 한국가정과학회지, 3(2), 135-153
  2. 김명웅 (2004) "신발의 역사". 선진문화사, 서울, pp.17-18
  3. 김민자.최현숙.이현주 (2001) 서양신발의 사적 고찰과 미적 가치 I. 복식 51(5), 157-173
  4. 김선아 (2005) "슈즈디자인개론", 디자인뱅크, 서울, pp.85-111
  5. 박찬부 (1986) 구약성서에 나타난 히브리인의 복식: 두식, 신발 및 장신구 중심으로, 복식, 10, 63-80
  6. 이현주 (2000) 에로티시즘을 반영한 하이힐 디자인개발에 관한 연구. 동덕여자대학교 대학원 석사학위논문
  7. 최경화 (1992) 서양 신발의 유형별 발달 과정에 관한 고찰. 중앙대학교 대학원 석사학위논문
  8. 최현숙 (2000) 패션에 표현된 패미니즘 여성성에 관한 연구. 서울대학교 대학원 박사학위논문
  9. 한지수 (1998) 피혁상품 디자인 개발에 관한 연구: 구두디자인을 중심으로. 이화여자대학교 대학원 석사학위논문
  10. Ashelford, J. (2000) "The Art of Dress: Clothes and Society 1500-1914". National Trust, London, pp.122-133
  11. Boccardi, L. (1993) "Party Shoes: Twelve Century.Histories of Fashion". Zanfi Editori, Modena, pp.18-24
  12. Bossan, M. (2004) "The art of the Shoes". Parkstone Press, New York
  13. Cunnington, C. (1972) "The Hand Book of English Costume in the 18th Century". Plays, Boston, pp.173-175
  14. Girotti, E. (1986) "Footwear". Raincast Books, Vancouver, pp.18-29
  15. Kim, S. (1997) The conservation treatment, scientific analysis and dating of a pair of unidentified period shoes in the author's collection. Unpublished Thesis, F.I.T. at State University of New York
  16. Laurie, Lawlor (2000) "신발의 역사". (임자경 역). 이지북, 서울, pp.91-92. (원저 1996 출판)
  17. Liu, A and M. Rotmman (1986) "Shoes Time". Arbor House, New York, pp.20-25
  18. McDowell, C. (1989) "Shoes: Fashion & Fantasy". Thames and Hudson, London, p.48
  19. O'Keefe, L. (1996) "Shoes: A Celebration of Pumps, Sandals, Slippers & More". Workman Publishing, New York, pp.80-85
  20. Rossi, W. (1989) "The Sex Life of the Foot & Shoe". Wordsworth Editions, Hertfordshire, pp.125-132
  21. Severn, B. (1964) "If the Shoe Fits". David McKay, New York, pp.52-53
  22. Swan, J. (1982) "Shoes". Dram Book, New York, pp.15-32
  23. Trasko, M. (1989) "Heavenly Soloes: Extraordinary Twentieth- Century Shoes". Abbeville Press, New York, pp.12-15