초록
To find our own individuality, there must be an active study on jeogori which is an unexplored field. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to consider artistic beauty and predominance of jeogori and recognize it as a precious culture, and also encourage interest about traditions. The range of this study is ancient times to Chosun dynasty, and in this study which will be the first part, the range is till the era of the Three Kingdoms. The study about jeogori is based on mural paintings of Goguryeo burial mounds, clay dolls and remains during Shilla, Beakjae, and United-shilla era. The contents of this study is 1. research the origin of jeogori's detail structures and changes of the form, 2. analyze the form and structure of the jeogori in each era, and therefore 3. find the predominance of Goguryeo costume by considering functional and design aspects. Therefore the conclusion of this study about the era of the Three Kingdoms are First, jeogori of the three kingdom era were developed from ancient times caftan style which Korea, China and Japan wore all together. Second, the structure of the jeogori during the Three Kingdom are ryeongeum, gil, somae and seon. Third, there is a special line that starts from the neckline and ends at the hem line which should be called ryeongeum in my opinion. Forth, while researching Goguryeo murals there were both left and right sided open jeogori. therefore, I would like to set up a new theory that during the ancient times to Three Kingdom era, not did China's clothing effected the Korean costume but the costume in east asia shared their forms all together.