Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Photoprotection and Anti-inflammatory Effects of Chinese Medical Plants

약용식물추출물의 광보호 효과와 항염증 효과 연구

  • Published : 2004.09.01
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Abstract

Chronic exposure to solar radiation, particularly ultraviolet (UV) light, causes a variety of adverse reactions on human skin, such as sunburn, photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by UV exposure or other environmental facts play critical roles in cellular damage. And, repeated-UV irradiation activated the expression of the matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) and induced skin irritation. Therefore, the development of effective and safe photoprotectants that can reduce and improve the skin damage has been required. The purpose of this study was to investigate the photo-protective effect of several chinese medical plants (Juniperus chinensis) on the UV -induced skin cell damages. We tested free radical and superoxide scavenging effect in vitro. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of MMP-1 (collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. UVA induced MMP-1 synthesis and activity were analyzed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and gelatin-based zymography in skin fibroblasts. We also examined anti-inflammatory effects by the determination test of proinflammatory cytokine, interleukin 6 in HaCaT keratinocytes. Expression of prostaglandin E$_2$ (PGE$_2$) after UVB irradiation was measured by competitive enzyme immunoassay(EIA) using PGE$_2$ monoclonal antibody. In the human skin we tested anti-irritation effect on the SLS-induced damage skin after appling the extract containing emulsion. We found that Juniperus chinensis extract had potent radical scavenging effect by 98% at 100$\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. The extract of Juniperus chinensis showed strong inhibitory effect on MMP-1 activities by 97% at 100 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL and suppressed the UVA induced expression of MMP-1 by 79% at 25$\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. This extract also showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. In the test of proinflammatory cytokines of human keratinocytes Juniperus chinensis extract decreased expression of interleukin 6 about 30%. The amount of PGE$_2$ by HaCaT keratinocytes was significantly increased at the doses of above 10 mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ of UVB (p < 0.05). At the concentrations of 3.2-25$\mu\textrm{g}$/mL of this extract, the production of PGE$_2$ by HaCaT keratinocytes (24 h after 10mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ UVB irradiation) was significantly inhibited in culture supernatants (p < 0.05). In SLS-induced skin irritation model in vivo, we found to reduce skin erythema and improve barrier recovery after appling Juniperus chinensis extract containing emulsion when compared to irritated non-treated and placebo-treated skin. Our results suggest that Juniperus chinensis extract can be effectively used for the prevention of UV and SLS-induced adverse skin reactions and applied as anti-aging and anti-irritation cosmetics.

자외선이 피부에 지속적으로 조사되면 썬번, 염증, 광노화와 같은 다양한 부작용이 생기게 된다. 따라서 광손상에 대한 보호작용은 점점 중요성이 인식되고 있으며, 천연 식물추출물에서 자외선에 대한 광보호효과가 있는 안전하고 효과적인 물질개발에 대한 연구가 진행되고 있다. 본 연구는 자외선에 의해 유도된 피부손상에 대한 보호효과가 우수한 천연식물추출물에 대한 것이다. 향나무, 능소화, 비자추출물에서 자외선에 의해 생성되는 라디칼에 대한 항산화효과, MMP 발현 및 활성 저해, 염증관련 사이토카인인 인터루킨 1알파, 6, 프로스타글란딘 E$_2$ 생성저해효과 등으로 피부세포보호 효과를 연구하였다. 실험결과 천연추출물 중 향나무추출물과 능소화추출물이 프리라디칼 및 슈퍼옥사이드 라디칼 소거효과가 우수하게 나타났으며 피부 콜라겐과 같은 메트릭스를 분해하는 효소인 MMP-1의 활성 및 발현 저해효과는 섬유아세포에서 UVA 조사에 의한 실험에서 우수하게 나타났으며, 피부세포 배양액에 대해 zymography를 실시하여 활성이 감소됨을 확인하였다. 피부 각질형성세포에서 자외선에 의해 유도된 염증관련 사이토카인인 인터루킨 6의 발현량 실험에서도 무처리군에 비해 향나무추출물이 인터루킨 6을 30% 정도 저해효과가 나타났으며, 염증반응 중 cyclooxygenase(COX)에 의한 경로에서 생성되는 프로스타글란딘 E$_2$의 생성량도 감소시켰다. 사람피부에서 SLS (0.5%) 첩포로 유발된 자극성 피부염의 항염증 효과 평가 시 SLS에 의해 유발되는 자극정도가 피검자의 피부상태에 따라 다양하게 나타났으며, 향나무 추출물 함유 에멀젼 제품 도포 실험에서는 피부 홍반 완화 효과와 피부장벽 회복효과가 우수하게 나타났다. 이상의 결과로 향나무추출물은 자외선 조사 및 SLS에 의한 피부손상에 대한 피부세포보호작용이 우수하여 광노화에 대응하는 자극완화 소재로서의 화장품 응용 가능성을 확인하였다.

Keywords

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