Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Applying the basic knowledge about regulation of pigmentation towards development of strategies for cutaneous hypopigmentation

  • Abdel-Malek, Zalfa A. (Department of Dermatology Cincinnati University College of Medicine Ohio, USA)
  • Published : 2002.12.01
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Abstract

The extensive variation in human cutaneous pigmentation is mainly due to differences in the rate of melanin synthesis by epidermal melanocytes, the relative amounts of eumelanin and pheomelanin synthesized, and the manner and rate of transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes. Pigmentation is a complex trait that is regulated genetically and environmentally. One gene that has been receiving a lot of attention is the gene for the melanocortin 1 receptor The extensive polymorphism of this gene in human populations suggests its significance in the diversity of pigmentation. Exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UV) results in increased synthesis of a variety of growth factors, cytokines and hormones, and in modulation of their receptors in the epidermis. Knowledge about the regulation of pigmentation has led to strategies for clinical treatment of hyperpigmented skin lesions. Three main strategies are: 1) the use of chemicals that interfere with the melanin synthetic pathway, 2) the design of peptides or peptide-mimetics based on the structure of hormones that regulate eumelanin synthesis, and 3) the use of agents that reduce melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes. All three strategies are expected to induce hypopigmentation, by inhibiting total melanin synthesis, eumelanin production, or the epidermal melanin unit, respectively.

인체피부의 색소침착에 있어서 다양한 차이는 주로 표피의 멜라닌생성 세포에 의한 멜라닌 합성 비율, 합성된 eumelanin과 pheomelanin의 상대적인 양과 melanocyte에서 keratinocyte로 melanosomes의 이동 속도와 그 방법에서 기인된다. 색소침착은 유전적, 환경적으로 조절되어지는 복합적 특성이다. 많은 관심이 집중되었던 하나의 유전자인 melanocortin 1 receptor 유전자가 있다. 인간집단에서 이 유전자의 다앙한 polymorphism은 색소침착의 다양성에 있어서 중요하다. 자외선(UV)에 대한 노출은 다양한 성장 요인, cytokines과 호르몬의 합성이 증가되고, 표피에서 그들 수용체들의 환경적응등이 나타난다. 색소침착 조절에 관한 정보는 과다색소 침착된 피부손상의 임상치료를 위한 전략들에서 이끌어 냈다. 주된 3개의 전략은 다음과 같다. 1) melanin 합성경로를 방해하는 화합물의 사용 2) eumelanin 합성을 조절하는 호르몬의 구조에서 기인된 peptides 또는 peptide-mimetics개발 3) melanocytes에서 keratinocytes로의 melanosome 이동을 감소시키는 물질의 개발. 이 모든 3가지의 전략은 각각 전체 멜라닌 합성, eumelanin 생성 또는 피부의 멜라닌 단위를 억제시킴으로 미백작용을 유도시킬 것으로 기대되어 진다.

Keywords

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