The Change of Nearshore Processes due to the Development of Coastal Zone

연안역 개발에 따른 해안과정의 변화

  • 이중우 (한국해양대학교 공과대학 토목환경공학부) ;
  • 이상진 (해양수산부 방제과) ;
  • 이호 (한국해양대학교 대학원 토목환경공학과) ;
  • 정대득 (목포해양대학교 해상운송시스템학부)
  • Published : 1999.06.01

Abstract

The construction of the coastal structures and reclamation work causes the circulation reduced in the semi-closed inner water area and the unbalanced sediment budget of beach results in an alteration of beach topography. Among the various fluid motions in the nearshore zone water particle motion due to wave and wave-induced currents are the most responsible for sediment movement. Therefore it is needed to predict the effect of the environmental change because of development and so the prediction of wave transformation dose. The purpose of this study is to introduce the relation between waves wave-induced currents and sediment movement. In this study we will show numerical method using energy conservation equation involving reflection diffraction and reflection and the surfzone energy dissipation term due to wave breaking is included in the basic equation. For the wave-induced current the momentum equation was combined with radiation stresses lateral mixing and friction Various information is required in the prediction of wave-induced current depending on the prediction tool. We can predict changes in wave-induced current from the distribution of wave especially near the wave breaking zone. To evaluate these quantities we have to know the local condition of waves mean sea level and so on. The results from the wave field and wave-induced current field deformation models are used as input data of the sediment transport and bottom change model. Numerical model were established by a finite difference method then were applied to the development plan of the eastern Pusan coastal zone Yeonhwa-ri and Daebyun fishing port. We represented the result with 2-D graphics and made comparison between before and after development.

Keywords

References

  1. 한국해안 · 해양공학회지 v.9 no.4 해빈변형모형을 이용한 항내매몰예측 김규한;백승화;편종근
  2. 港灣技術硏究所報告 no.14 淺海底におすゐ波浪の碎波變形 合田良實(Goda)
  3. 海岸環境工學センタ-報告 no.13 岩石海岸におすゐ海浜流の數値モデル 西村仁嗣(Nishimura);堀川淸司(編)
  4. 第31回 海岸工學講演會論文集 海浜流の數値計算法について 西村仁嗣(Nishimura);丸山康樹(等)
  5. 第31回 海岸工學講演會論文集 構造物數値伴う三次元海浜變形の數値豫測モデル 渡邊晃(Watanabe);丸山康樹;淸水陸夫(等)
  6. J. Geophys. Res. v.75 no.33 Longshore currents gene rated by obliquely incident sea waves 2 Longuet-Higgins
  7. J. Geophys. Res. v.75 no.30 Longshore sand transport on beaches Komar, P.D.;D.L. Inman