A Study on Dyeing of Silk-Polyester Fabric

絹과 Polyester合絲絹織物의 染色法改善에 關한 硏究

The textile fabric contains the functions of sanitation, decoration, wearing style and washing in the practical use. Among various tetile fiber, silk has less utilities than synthetic fiber in practical use although silk has good benefits of the high quality of silk fabric. Thus no textile fiber, neither natural norsynthetic, has all the functions. In this sense, many compound fabrics have been improved to reveal various functions of fabric However, this has been disturbed with the problem of dyeing, expecially in the case of compound fabric of silk. The work is carried out to improve the dyeing method of compound fabric of polyester and silk. The results obtained are as follows: 1. In the dyeing of compound fabric(P/S fabric), azo dyes was more suitable than anthraquinone dyes. 2. According to the carrier, dyeing spot was appeared by the high concentration in bath. 3. Degree of dye fixation was decreased in dyeing of methylnaptharine carrier(D.N) and anion disperser(T.S). 4. The affinity of dye was suitable in the dyeing bath of azo dye, trichlorobenzene carrier and nonion disperser. 5. Dye fixation of silk side in compound fabric by acid dye showed higher in acid bath of dyeing. 6. In printing of silk and polyester compound fabric, it must be understood relationship among fibers, dyes, and steaming conditions.

絹과 polyester複合織物의 染色方法을 改善하기 위하여 浸染法과 捺染法에 對하여 染色條件을 檢討하였다. 本 實驗結果를 要約하면 다음과 같다. 1. P/S複合織物의 染色에 있어서는 azo系의 染科가 anthraquinone系의 染科보다 適合하다. 2. Carrier의 種類에 따라서는 使用濃度가 높으면 染斑이 나타난다. 3. Methylnapthalene系의 carrier (D.N)와 陰 Ion 性分散劑로 polyester織物을 染色한 경우에는 染科의 吸着度가 減少하였다. 4. Azo系의 分散染科가 非 Ion性의 carrier와 分散劑 사이에 親和性이 向上되었다. 5. 酸性染科에 의한 染科의 吸着度는 染色浴이 酸性側인 경우 增加되었고, 그 範圍는 pH 4~6이었다. 6. P/S複合織物을 捺染하는 경우에 있어서, 染科의 染着을 向上하기 위해서는 蒸熱溫度, 蒸熱時間 및 pH와의 關係를 適合하게 하여야 한다.