A Review on the Characteristics and Description of Ocean Waves

해양파(海洋波)의 특성(特性)과 그 기술(記術)에 관(關)한 고찰(考察)

In this note the characteristics of ocean waves is reviewed from standpoint of practical application. To describe the ocean wave in mathematical terms many wave theories have been developed, each under some different aspects. Among well-established wave theories the gravity wave theory and the cnoidal wave theory are examined by a mathematical principle. Finally valid range of each theory is suggested for its numerical evaluation.