한국 양잠부녀자의 의복변천에 관한 연구

The Clothes Tendensy of Korean Sericultural Women

양잠농촌 부녀자들의 의복 꼭 변천과정을 구명하기 위하여 전국에서 임의로 선택한 양잠농촌부녀자 총 183 명을 대상으로 1961년∼1969년까지 3년간에 걸쳐 신조한 의복(양복 한복)을 조사하여 연령별 연도별로 비교 검토한 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 양복신조율은 한복에 비하여 2배정도 높았으며 젊은 층일수록 이 비율이 높았다. 연도별로는 점차양복이 한복에 비해증가되는 경향을 보였다. 2. 의복의 유형은 양복에서는 브라우스, 원피스, 스카트가 대부분이었고 한복에서는 저고리와 치마가 거의 전부를 차지하였다. 년도별로는 점차 원피스가 많아지는 경향을 보였다. 3. 의복 제조방법은 자가 제조나 기성복은 적었고 대부분이 맞춤이었다. 이를 연령별로 보면 자가제조와 기성복은 연장자일수록 젊은 층보다 더 많았다. 4. 착용 계절별로는 양복은 하절에 한복은 동절에 많았고 복종별로는 하절에는 원피스 춘추에는 투프스가 많았으며 치마는 계절에 따른 변화가 거의 없었다, 5. 의복종류별로 보면 양복은 폴리에스텔과 이의 혼방물이 가장 많았고 견직물이 가장 적었으며 한복은 이와 반대로 견직물과 견사혼방물이 많았다. 년도에 따라서는 합성섬유가 점차 증가되는 경향을 보였다. 6. 기호색은 양복에서는 백색, 청색, 갈색, 흑색의 순이었고, 한복은 백색, 청색, 녹색, 회색의 순이었다. 연령별로는 젊은 층일수록 색의 선택이 다양하였고, 연도별로는 뚜렷한 차이를 인정할 수 없었다.

This study was conducted in order to find out the tendency of sericultural woman's clothes. This data was based on random samples of 183 sericultural women throughout the country, and was derived from the investigation of c1othes (western and Korean-style) which had been made during the years, 1967∼1969. The results obtained are summarized as follows: 1. Western-style clothes were about twice as popular as Korean-style, and more evident among the young women. It was also shown that the ratioes mentioned above were gradually decreased year by year. 2. Most popular among the western-style clothes were blouses, one-piece dresses and skirts. Jogori(coat) and Cheema(long skirt) were favorites among the Korean-styled clothes. One-piece dresses showed increasing tendency of use year by year. 3. Costume-made clothes were much more in number than the home-made and the ready-made types. The home-made and the ready-made clothes increased as the ages increased. 4. Western-styled clothes were popular in summer seasons while Korean-styled clothes were popular in the winter time. Among the western-styled clothes one-pieces dresses and two-piece suits were most popular during the spring through autumn. In Korean clothes the Cheema was popular all year round. 5. Western-style clothes were mostly made of polyester and their blends. Silk was the least used fabric. On the contrary, most of Korean-style clothes were made of silk and their blends. The synthetic fibers showed increasing use year by year. 6. Favorite colors were in order; white, blue, brown, and black in western-style clothes; white, blue, green, and gray were in Korean style clothes. Young women teaded to have a wider preference of colors than the older women.