일본풍의 성립 과정 - 당의(唐衣)를 중심으로 -

The Process of Formation of the Japanese Version Costume - Focused on the Karaginumo Shozoku -

As a conclusion, it is considered that the 'Karaginumo shozoku' is not such a reformed version of the Chofuku or Jinjyofuku of Nara period as said in the accepted theory, but a further development of the 'Uchiki' worn at home by the aristocrat ladies since the first half of $10^{th}$ century. It is further presumed that the ladies probably did not wear the homewear 'Hitoe no uchiki' together with one Uchiki of wadded clothes as an over coat, but they put on multi layers of 'Uchiki' with no wadded silk cotton from their viewpoint on the beauty of the combination of colors. This could have made their Hakama larger.In the section of Jinjyofuku of the above mentioned 'Seikyuki', Karaginu, Mo and Hire are specified as the essential wears for their daily service. It is consequently said that the aristocratic ladies at home wore only 'Uchiki', while the female service officers put such wears as Uchiki, Karaginu, Mo and Hire when they came to serve the aristocratic ladies at home.