• 복식
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• 제58권10호
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• pp.65-77
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the correlation between the density, the Count and the width of cross section in 2D function through comparison the difference of simulated fabrics based on the various yarns, and to compare the 3D effect by Lay Mapping of diverse fabrics. The method of research is to weave the eight fabrics composed of cotton, linen, worsted, slender yarn, loop, $m{\acute{e}}lange$, woolen, and yarn twist with Hi-Tex program, and to practice 3D mapping with Hi-Print program. As a mapping object, the flared skirt which is a basic costume item is selected. As a result, the thickness of yarn in CAD system was fixed by the width of cross section rather than Count, especially by the width of core section not including the fluff section. The type of yarn such as cotton yarn, linen yarn, and worsted had effect on the shape of texture, but had few interrelations with dimension. In the case of 3D mapping, the textural characteristic and the dimension were presented precisely, whereas there were several limitations. First, the thickness of tissue has not been represented. Secondly, the effect of texture such as fuzzy look, loop was not expressed on the skirt outline including sideline and hemline. Thirdly, the difference of silhouette was not distinct. The common point in 2D and 3D operations is that the representation of texture is relatively accurate and that is difficult to measure and manifest of thickness, the side. For more professional digitalizing in fashion industry, above all in the domain of 3D, it must be supplement the subdivided and differentiated mapping process according to the texture, deviating from the existing analog-based organization which has to designate the form and silhouette suitable for tissue.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.15-20
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• 2008

The cotton yarn was subjected to bio-polishing treatment with three commercial enzymes(Cellusoft L, Denimax-991L and Denimax-acid) to remove the fuzz on the cotton yarn. Also, enzyme treated cotton yarns were compared with singeing cotton yarns. Experimental variables of enzyme treated cotton yarn were as follow: concentration of enzyme solution and NaOH, dipping time, and processing temperature. The enzymatic treatments were evaluated by analyzing the effect on yarn count, twist contraction, evenness and tenacity. As the results, enzymatic treatment on cotton yarn induced same effects as the traditional singeing treatment. Also, silket treatment of cotton yarn after bio-polishing enhanced the tensile properties of the cotton yarn.

• 품질경영학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.147-157
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• 1992

This article describes a prototype expert system for yarn spinning process planning in textile industry. This expert system is intended as a consultant to give the technicians interactive assistance for the appropriate process planning in accordance with used materials, required count, and other factors affected yarn spinning by means of many types of machine. Also, this system has the other function that can be compared the standard values with the measured ones for quality characteristics control. VP-EXPERT-a rule-based microcomputer expert system development tool-provides the expert system components for this development. The details of knowledge organization, rule representation, inference reasoning process, and performance of this expert system are demonstrated with the practical yarn spinning operations.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.101-110
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• 2007

Since cotton fabrics with ripple finish treatment form wavy furrows on the surface or bumpy patterns, air circulation during wearing is good and the fabric is cool to the touch. The finishing principle is based on the mercerization, which utilizes the fact that cotton fibers contract in a concentrated NaOH solution. In this study, as fabric specimens, cotton fabrics with yarn counts of 40's, 60's and 80's were used. Concentrations of the NaOH solutions were 15%, 25%, and 35%. After dyeing fabrics using Rubia akane nakai, color and other properties were measured. As the concentration of the NaOH solution increased, the fabric became thicker and denser, and the number of occurrence of the prominence and depression per unit length became larger. The color of the region contracted by ripple finish became darker after dyeing, while the color of the untreated region became lighter, which enhanced the cubic effect of the ripple finish. As the count of the cotton yarn increased, the dyeability became better. As the concentration of the NaOH solution increased, the air permeability became lower.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.77-91
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• 2016

Recently, the spun blend yarns with staple fibers and filaments are being developed in the spinning process using an air blowing and electrostatic spinning technology(cyclone) in order to enhance the soft feeling and the fine count spun blend yarn manufacturing competitiveness. In this study, the appropriate separation condition of polyester multifilament was examined according to the treatment condition of conductive agents and voltage on polyester multifilament in the newly developed cyclone spinning process. And it was investigated the physical properties and dyeability of the cyclone wool/polyester spun blend yarns and its wool composite fabrics in comparison with existing sirofil wool/polyester spun blend yarn and its fabrics. As the result, it is determined that the newly developed cyclone wool/polyester spun blend yarn applied fabrics has a superior quality level in terms of practicality.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제30권4호
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• pp.227-236
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• 2018

As consciousness of safety becomes an important social issue, the demand for protective clothing is increasing. Conventional flame-retardant cotton working wear has low durability, and working wear with m-aramid fibers are stiff, heavy, less permeable, and expensive. In this study, recycled m-aramid and cotton have been blended to produce woven fabric of different compositions to enhance high performance and comfort to solve aforementioned problems. The fabrics were analyzed according to constituents and various structural factors. Mechanical properties were measured using KES-FB system. The measured thermal properties are TGA, $Q_{max}$, TPP and RPP. Fabric with polyurethane yarn covered by m-aramid/cotton spun yarn is observed to have good wearability. The fabric of open end spun yarn showed more stiffness than that of ring spun yarn. The sample with the high count of yarn has more smooth surface. In addition, high m-aramid content fabric is considered to have relatively high stiffness when using as clothing. In TGA the fabric with higher m-aramid content showed more stable decomposition behavior. The fabric having rough surface showed lower heat transfer properties in $Q_{max}$. The influence of the fabric thickness was important in convection and radiant heat test.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.492-496
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• 2004

Shrinkage properties of drawn textured Poly(trimethylene terephthalate, PTT) yarn, which has been developed recently, were investigated to provide fundamental information for the textile industry. Shrinkage ratio characteristics on PTT yarn with six different count were investigated with tension, dry and wet thermal temperature. In non-tension, the shrinkage ratio were increased to increasing temperature at dry and wet thermal treatment, and in tension, the shrinkage ratio were increased to increasing tension at dry and wet thermal treatment.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.445-449
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• 2007

The results of warmth retaining, heat transfer and compressive elastic recovery of the five kinds of bedspread fabrics, which were produced from packing weft of 2700 denier and 3600 denier batt yarn treated with raw material of Polyester $150^D$/48 DTY, are as follows: 1) 3600 denier packing weft showed lover count in compressive elastic recovery than 2700d packing weft, so it took longer time to recover. 2) When packing weft of the same count is used, a sample of packing weft with higher density showed lower recovery. 3) It took 2700d packing weft 30min to get approximately 98% recovery in temperature $30^{\circ}C$. But, 3600d packing weft stayed under 98% recovery in the same temperature. Considering only the result of compressive elastic recovery, we should use 2700d packing weft. 4) The higher the density of packing weft is, the higher warmth retaining becomes. Although sharp increase appeared until 5min, equilibrium was kept without any increase after that time. 5) When 2700d packing weft was used, the maximum warmth retaining was approximately 60% and 64% in the conditions of density 12(thread/in) and 22(thread/in) respectively.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.45-52
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• 2005

The optimum fabric design plan is recently needed with the relevant fabric shrinkage in dyeing and finishing processes for the various sensible fabrics for garment. For responding this need, the difference of fabric design plan such as fabric density, yarn count and finishing shrinkage has to be surveyed with weaving looms such as water jet, air-jet and rapier looms, and also has to be analysed with weave pattern such as plain, twill and satin according to the fabric manufacturers. Therefore, in this study, 420 polyester weave pattern sheets are collected from 5 fabric manufacturers, and the weave density coefficients of these fabrics are calculated using yarn count, fabric density and 1 repeat weave pattern. These weave density coefficients are analysed according to the fabric manufacturers, weaving looms and various weave patterns. And also the weave density coefficients of 420 polyester fabrics are analysed with finishing shrinkage according to the fabric manufacturers and various weave patterns such as plain, twill and satin fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.355-363
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate how the weave type, yarn twist fabric count and fiber content of the worsted fabrics affect the subjective sensation of the hand. Thirty worsted fabrics that were mainly used for the spring and fall ladies'suits at national brands were selected. Variables were such as four different kinds of weave types, plain, twill, satin and decorative; two levels of yarn twist, normal and high; various fabric counts; two different fiber contents, pure wool and Lycra contained. Image analysis and wavelet transform techniques were used to quantify the surface fiber, For surface characteristics, MIU, MMD and SMD were measured by KES-FB system. The Questionnaires with 23 adjectives were used for the subjective hand evaluation. Panels were So specialists of fashion or fabric designers and merchandizers. By Factor Analysis, six factors that represent the subjective hand were extracted. The relationship between these factors and structural variables were analyzed. Yarn twist was significantly related to the surface characteristics and resilience. Weave structure affected surface characteristics, volume/warm-cool feeling and resilience. Fabric counts showed relations with volume/warm-cool feeling and the fiber contents with volume/warm-cool feeling, resilience and elastic properties. MIU, MMD and SMD showed no relations with the surface fibers. Subjective sensation of surface characteristics was affected by SMD and surface fibers.