• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.107-117
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• 2018

Nettle fiber, a sustainable fiber, was applied to the fabrication of denim to identify changes in textile appearance and formation. For the weaving of nettle denim, nine specimens, distinguished by three kinds of composite use of nettle fiber and three stages of fabrication processes, were used. The kinetic characteristics of the nine specimens were measured by the KES-FB system, and the images of the specimens of finished denim textiles, captured with a CCD Camera, were analyzed. In terms of the extensibility (EM) of nettle denim, all specimens showed post-processing increase, thereby suggesting an easy transformation of the textile as a source material for denim fabric. The effects of washing on the woven formation of denim were also identified. The geometric roughness (SMD), the problematic property of bast-fiber-like nettle fiber, was found to be decreased by washing. In terms of the bending rigidity (B) of the textile, the post-processing shrinking percentage of elastic nettle denim was found to decrease; all specimens that underwent bio-washing only also manifested that post-processing elasticity increased. To improve the draping of nettle denim, a mixed spinning together with washing were found to be advantageous. In terms of the shear stiffness (G), which is closely associated with the appearance of clothes, the formation of textile was improved regardless of the types of processing, including bio-washing and bleach washing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.447-457
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• 2006

본 연구의 목적은 뉴욕의 플리마켓에서 구입한 매우 흥미로운 퀼트 텍스타일을 관찰함으로서 시작되었다. 흔하지 않은 스타일의 실크 인서트(Silk inserts)들로 구성된 이 퀼트를 본 연구자로 하여금 그 역사적 가치를 조명하고 문서기록을 남기며 보존처리하여 텍스타일 역사의 발전에 도움을 주는 것에 의의를 두고 있다. 본 연구의 방법으로는 관련된 문헌고찰과 뉴욕의 메트로폴리탄 박물관 J. R. Burdick 콜렉션을 방문하여 퀼트의 패치들이 silk insert라는 분석을 내렸고 Burdick의 연구(제작연대 1910$\∼$1912)에 의문을 갖고 연구자가 조사를 진행하여 이 연구과제에 사용된 silk inserts의 제작연대가 1934년경부터 1939년경이라는 결론을 내렸다. 다음 단계로는 이 직물의 상태를 분석하였는데, 실크 섬유의 상태가 바느질을 견디지 못하는 상태로 판단해 보존처리 방법으로는 접착제 Elvace 46575(vinyl acetate copolymer resin emulsion)를 Stabiltax에 코팅처리하여 직물을 강화처리하였다. 본 연구는 문서처리 되지 않은 미확인 직물의 역사적 의미 발견과 보존처리를 통해 후대의 텍스타일 연구자들에게 정보를 제공한다는 측면에서 가치가 있다고 사료된다.

• 감성과학
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.149-156
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• 2021

본 연구에서는 1500℃ 이상의 극한 열 환경에서 사용되는 소재인 SiC (silicon carbide) 섬유를 복합방적사로 제조한 후에 원단을 제직하고 제직된 원단의 역학적 특성을 KES-FB system으로 측정하고 측정된 역학적 특성 값으로부터 착용성능을 분석하여 방화복으로의 활용 가능성을 알아보았다. 그 결과 직물의 역학적 특성에서는 인장선형성(LT)과 인장레질리언스(RT), 전단강성(G)을 나타내는 값이 원사의 제조형태에 따라서 그 특성 값의 차이를 보였으며, 직물의 두께와 평량, 밀도 값이 전단히스테리시스(2HG)와 압축레질리언스(RC) 값에 영향을 준다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 의복착용 성능에서는 착용 시 부피감을 나타내는 두께에 대한 압축에너지의 비(WC/T) 값에서 SiC 복합방적사로 제조된 직물의 값이 가장 우수한 값을 타나내었으며, 방염성능에서는 SiC 복합방적사로 제조된 직물이 탄화길이와 잔염시간에서 KFI 성능기준을 만족하여 방화복으로서의 활용이 가능함을 확인할 수 있었다.

• 복식
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• 제55권4호
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• pp.95-106
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to research the design methods to express jacquard design using CAD. For this study, two design patterns were divided; in addition, each design pattern is applied to two different weaving types, single woven fabric and double well cloths. As a result, 16 samples were produced by applying 4 design methods (warp shrunk as half size design/weft shrunk as half size design - A, warp shrunk as half size design/weft original size design - B, warp original size design/weft shrunk as half size design - C, warp original size design/weft original size design - D) to the two design patterns with the two weaving types. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The most delicate design method was Method D. However, Method B which took half the time less than Method D was almost as delicate as the Method D on the surface. 2. Method B was judged as a considerably efficient method for time and cost. 3. Method D was considered as most suitable for elaborate parts and delicate lines. However, it was considered uneconomical since it took the longest time. 4. Mettled A took 2.5 times less time than Method D. Therefore, Method A was more applicable to producing high density design. 5. Method C is not considered as a useful method as it showed rough surface and took long time by applying high design zoom except intentional design.

• 복식
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• 제67권1호
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• pp.147-168
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• 2017

This study examines the types and characteristics of women's garments excavated in the early Joseon Dynasty before 1592. The study sorts out headgear, jacket, skirt and trousers, and coats from the historical texts in the early Joseon Dynasty and excavated women's wears in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and analyzes their textiles and patterns. The Joseon women's garments convey several features. They are wide across the chest and square shaped collar with virtually straight sleeves. While their breast-ties are extremely little for the size of clothes, they do not have any inner-tie. They have broad and short dongjeongs which seem to be hard to be adjusted. There are a variety of headgear. Jang-Jeogori slit down in both sides. The Jeogori after the seventeenth century transformed a more practical form of a fitting dress to an individual body in comparison with the sixteenth jeogori. It is identified that the fabrics in the early Joseon period were woven more diversely and colorfully than the late Joseon period. Most of the excavated fabrics in the sixteenth century were in silk. Materials for adornments before 1592 were not much diverse and their designs mostly contained patterns of lotus flowers, patterns of cloud and treasures with oblique lines. The colors are mainly brown, navy and green. The Joseon women's clothes were comprised of skirts with folded hem, coat with round collars, wide leg pants, Jangot, long-sleeved coat with folding collars, and quadrangular pieces of cloth in various sizes, or mu and so forth. Joseon women's clothes, like men's wears, partake of active functions in their headgears, wide leg pants, styles in short front and long back, and coat with round collars.

• 감성과학
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.623-629
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• 2007

최근 호주의 CSIRO에서 개발된 고광택 wool 섬유인 "옵팀"$^{(R)}$ 이 수입되어 고감성의류 제조에 산업화 되고 있다. 그러나 "옵팀"$^{(R)}$ 섬유의 가격이 너무 비싸 소재수급이 원활치 못한 실정이다. 본 연구에서는 호주에서 개발되어 상용화되고 있는 기술인 $Optim^{(R)}$ wool 연신기술과는 다른 물빨래가 가능하며 광택이 있으며 낮은 생산 코스트를 가지는 소모연신사를 개발하는 것을 목적으로 한다. 이를 위해서 연신사가 개발된 연신기계를 이용하여 만들어지며 이를 사용하여 고감성직물을 제직하였다. 이들 직물시료의 여러 가지 물성을 측정하고 의류의 봉제성과 의복형성성능과 같은 의류의 특성이 분석되었다. 이 연구를 통하여 마지막 목적인 옵팀섬유와 같은 고광택을 가진 소모 연신사를 사용하여 고감성직물을 만드는 것이 이루어졌다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.32-43
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• 2011

This study investigate the transition about Japanese national costume kimono. The prototype of the present kimono is a kosode. The origin of kosode dates back to the mid-Heian period, when this type of kimono served as the everyday wear of commoners and an undergarment for court nobles, both men and women. In the Muromachi period, particularly after the Onin war, the kosode began to be by people of all classes. In the Muromachi period, kosode consisted mainly of woven textiles. In the Momoyama period, kosode became very elaborate, employing such various techniques as tie-dyeing, embroidery, metallic leaf(surihaku) and free-hand painting. These were further combined resulting in such techniques as tsujigahana dyeing and nuihaku, which are now considered to epitomize Momoyama-period textile design. A category of kosode of the early Edo period, known as Keicho kosode, is fashioned mainly from black, white, or red figured satin(rinzu), or from figured satin segmented in these three colors. Books of kosode designs began to be published in the Kambun era, when the merchant class was becoming economically powerful, kosode began to reflect its taste. During its final stage of development in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, yuzen dyeing achieved wide acceptance. From the late 18th century toward the early 19th century, kosode worn by the merchant class underwent drastic changes, while those worn by the samurai class changed little. In the after the late 18th century, clear differences in design and decorative methods appeared between the kosode worn by rich merchants and those worn by middle and lower class merchants.

• Journal of Information Processing Systems
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.1277-1295
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• 2019

With its technical development, digital printing is being universally introduced to the mass production of clothing factories. At the same time, many fashion platforms have been made for customers' participation using digital printing, and a tool is provided in platforms for customers to make designs. However, there is no sufficient solution in the production stage for automatically converting a customer's design into a file before printing other than designating a square area for the pattern designed by the customer. That is, if 30 different designs come in from customers for one shirt, designers have to do the work of reproducing the design on the clothing pattern in the same location and in the same angle, and this work requires a great deal of manpower. Therefore, it is necessary to develop a technology which can let the customer make the design and, at the same time, reflect it in the clothing pattern. This is defined in relation to the existing clothing pattern with digital printing. This study yields a clothing pattern for digital printing which reflects a customer's design in real time by matching the diagram area where a customer designs on a given clothing model and the area where a standard pattern reflects the customer's actual design information. Designers can substitute the complex mapping operation of programmers with a simple area-matching operation. As there is no limit to clothing designs, the variousfashion design creations of designers and the diverse customizing demands of customers can be satisfied at low cost with high efficiency. This is not restricted to T-shirts or eco-bags but can be applied to all woven wear, including men's, women's, and children's clothing, except knitwear.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.52-58
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• 1996

In order to study an applicable level for the graft finish of silk filaments and the characteristics of silk fabric, some sample fabrics were woven with grafted weft and the characteristics of sample fabrics were analyzed to evaluate the mechanical properites and the handle values according to the graft yield(%) of MMA and HEMA monomers on silk filaments. 1. The tensile properties were detected in the increase of linearity(LT) and the recovery in time of the increasing resilience(RT). 2. The bending properties were detected to have a lot of effect on the balance of bending rigidity(B) to hysteresis(2HB) according to the elastic relaxation of warp tension and the interlacing stress. 3. The shearing properities were detected to show the softness and the elastics in a case of the decrease in shearing rigidity(G) and hysteresis(2HG, 2HG5) according to the graft yields. 4. The compression properties were detected in the decrease of linearity(LC) and the uniformity of resilience(RC). It explains that the tendancies of compressible variation is not accepted. 5. The surface properities were detected to be affected by the surface forms of grafted silk filaments and the variation in the morphologies of interlacing sections. Considering the interlacing eveness, MMA grafted fabrics were accepted within the level of WOMEN'S THIN DRESS(KN-201-LDY) but HEMA grafted fabrics were not accepted. 6. The variation of handles were detected in the increase of total hand(TAV) within the levels of 65% of KOSHI and 82% of HARI on the average. 7. The handle fashions were detected in the nature of Habuta and Dechine from MAA graft but the nature of Fugi were shaped from HEMA graft in proportion to the graft yields.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.53-69
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• 2010

This study compared the work environment colors and the colors of working clothes by conducting a field survey of domestic machinery manufacturers who are playing a central role in Korean industries so as to develop and evaluate working clothes based on the safety of workers and environmental harmony. For the study method, after the color-related requirements were collected through interviews and field surveys, the fabrics for working clothes were woven and the colors were selected using the requirements. The designs of working clothes were developed with an emphasis on color design. The colors of the working clothes were also analyzed in their relationship to the working environment. The evaluations were separately performed for the appearance and the colors with workers of D machinery manufacturing company. The appearance and color satisfaction, safety, psychology, and harmony with environment were evaluated on a 5-point scale by workers and their safety managers. Furthermore, pictures of the workers in their existing working clothes and the newly developed working clothes were taken with a digital camera while they were working in the field. The RGB values of the pictures were extracted using Photoshop ver. 7.01, which were converted to HVC values using Munsell Conversion ver. 4.0.1. This study found that higher satisfaction levels were shown for the newly developed working clothes compared to the existing ones. The actual measurements also showed that the newly developed had higher brightness and clearer chromatic contrast than the existing ones, indicating higher explicitness and attention for safety of workers. These types of studies can contribute to the integrated working environment plan of machinery manufacturers.