• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.129-142
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• 2013

Fabrics created unique features through the change in various ways depending on the elements including fabric structure, threads, thickness, weaving, patterns and processing. This study examined the difference between texture and image depending on components of fabrics. In order to understand the trend of components of fabrics, the actual components of fabrics was analyzed by year, using the women's apparel trend books, Nelly Rodi Fabrics and Promostyl Fabrics. This study analyzed Spring/Summer season and Fall/Winter season from 2002 to 2012. Frequency analysis, cross-tabulation analysis, multiple response cross tabulation analysis were implemented using SPSS 18.0. The followings are the analysis results. For fabric composition, Spring/Summer season used cotton fabric the most. Cotton fabric accounted for relatively high usage in 2005, 2007 and 2008. Fall/Winter season used wool the most in 2002, 2003, 2004 and 2005. In case of fiber blend by fabric composition, cotton was blended with other fibers in Spring/Summer season except wool. The fiber blending ratio of wool was the highest in Fall/Winter season. Wool was blended in most fabrics. More than two patterns were mixed for fabric patterns. The fabric patterns were applied the most in 2012. For fabric processing, the fabrics by sensitivity-functional processing were continuously used every year and the surface finish showed relatively high usage in 2002 and 2011. In conclusion, this study will build the systematic data for 11 years including fabric trends in the past. It can improve specialization, systematization and efficiency in fabric planning.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.28
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• pp.213-223
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• 1996

Woolen fabrics were manufactured in Korea since the early prehistoric period and were manufactured and used from the period of the three Kingoms and Koryo through the Chosonera. These materials were developed in to woolen fabrics through a tradition of thou-sand years. In Korea the Orient Culture of no-madic tribes and Mesopotamia Culture of stock-farming come together and developed these original woolen fabrics cultures. During the Chosen period woolen goods were frequently manufactured and used. Those re-mains consist of various hats and shoes made up of felt. And the remains which of a kind of woolen fabrics were made from the wool materials. There were various stock farms and supplies a woolen craftsman needed the wool materials. There were various stock farms and supplies a woolen craftsman needed the wool materials. And there were especial woolen goods shops as Choung Po Joun.

• Biotechnology and Bioprocess Engineering:BBE
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.186-191
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• 2005

In this study, a microorganism-produced protease was used to improve the quality of fabrics. First, the protease-producing bacteria were isolated from soils, and one of them was selected and identified as Bacillus sp. SJ-121. The optimal medium composition for its growth and protease production was determined to be as follows: glucose 1g/L, soybean meal 0.5g/L, soy peptone 0.5, $K_2HPO_4\;0.2,\;MgSO_4\cdot7H_2O\; 0.002,\;NaCl\;0.002,\;and\;Na_2CO_3g/L$. Also, the optimal temperature for the production of the protease by Bacillus sp. SJ-121 was about $40^{\circ}C$ at pH 7. The wool and silk were treated with the protease from Bacillus sp. SJ-121. Following the protease treatment, changes in the surface of a single yarn of the fabrics were observed by both an optical microscope and a scanning electron microscope (SEM). Changes in the K/S value of the wool and silk were measured by spectrophotometric analysis, in order to determine the amount of dye uptake in the fabrics. We also performed a tensile strength examination in order to determine the degree and nature of mechanical changes in single yarns of the wool and silk fabrics. By increasing the protease treatment time to 48 h, the dyeing characteristics of the fabrics were enhanced, and the surfaces of the single yarns of the fabrics became smoother, due to the removal of soil and scale in them. However, no mechanical changes were detected in the fabrics. Therefore, we suggest that proper treatment of the protease produced by Bacillus sp. can improve the quality of silk and wool.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.43-51
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• 2009

The cotton, wool, cotton/wool blended(80:20) and tencel fabrics were treated with low temperature oxygen or argon plasma, enzymes(cellulase or protease), or oxygen plasma-enzyme and examined for their weight loss and conditions for treatment for the environment friendly finishing. In the plasma treatment argon gas had better effect on the weight loss than oxygen gas did and the weight loss of all the fabrics was increased as increasing discharge power and discharge time. The weight loss of cotton, wool, cotton/wool blended(80:20) fabrics decreased in a large measure after 1 hr but that of tencel didn't decrease after 1 hr. In case of cellulose fibers oxygen gas plasma induced chemical functional groups on the surface of substrate more than argon gas plasma did so the weight loss of wool was larger than that of cotton, tencel fabrics in oxygen plasma-enzyme treatment. The weight loss of cotton and tencel fabrics decreased the initial stage because oxygen plasma pre-treatment caused cross linking as well as etching effect but argon plasma pre-treatment didn't. The plasma pre-treatment cleared the way for enzyme treatment on the whole but oxygen plasma pre-treatment bear in hand the increase of weight loss more or less because of the cross linking on the surface of cellulose fibers. The appropriate conditions for plasma treatment was 10-1Torr, 40W for 30minutes and for cellulase treatment were enzyme concentration of $3g/{\ell}$, pH 5, $60^{\circ}C$ for 1hr and for protease treatment were enzyme concentration of $4g/{\ell}$ pH 8, $60^{\circ}C$ for 1hr.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.107-121
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• 2003

This study was discussed the dyeing of wool and nylon fabrics with Chinese Scholar Tree extract. The extracts of Chinese Scholar Tree was prepared in the condition of heating at $95{\pm}5C$, for 1 hour and cooling to 40C. And then the extracts of color matter treate with vacuum concentration at $60{\pm}2^{\circ}C$, 30mmHg and dried with spray dryer. The dyeing of wool and nylon fabric in this experiment was also employed the mordant dyeing method such as pre-mordant, post-mordant and simultaneous mordant method. The mordanting agents used in this study were as followings ; aluminium potassium sulfate, copper(II) acetate monohydrate, chromium potassium sulfate$.$$7H_2O$, Tin(II) chloride dihydrate, iron(II)sulfate $7H_2O$. For an evaluation of the dyeing property of the mordanting agents, the pre-mordant method, the repeat dyeing and the fastness of the light, dry cleaning, washing and rubbing measured respectively. From the results of the dye absorption, the optimum dyeing condition of the wool and nylon fabrics with Chinese Scholar Tree extract is at 80C dyeing temperature for 60 minutes. The optimum concentration of mordanting agent is Al, Cr, Sn 1%, Fe, Cu 2% solution. In general, the fastness property of the dyed wool and nylon fabrics had a comparatively high grade.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.127-137
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• 2012

This study focuses on the optimal washing conditions for dry cleaning recommended fabrics to minimize dimensional changes using wet cleaning. We suggest water-based alternatives to a perchloroethylene based cleaning process. Wool and rayon fabrics were laundered under various washing conditions and then air-dried for 24hrs. All specimens were extended after spinning and shrunk after drying. This is probably because the fibers were swollen and extended by wetting. The wool fabrics were shown to be acutely influenced by washing temperature and mechanical force. The optimal washing conditions for wool fabric to minimize the dimensional change implied a normal washing temperature and minimized mechanical force. For rayon specimens, dimensional change by a hand wash showed a remarkable decrease compared with a machine wash. Rayon fabric seemed to be influenced by the quantity of water contained in the fabric after spinning and washing time. Therefore, the desirable washing conditions for rayon fabric are to reduce the time required for washing and to increase the spin speed.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2009.03a
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• pp.229-230
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• 2009

Recently the demand for wool has been gradually decreasing due to global warming, oil depletion, Coolbiz campaign to reduce CO2 emission, and preference for business casual wear, while the price for wool materials has been constantly increasing. Wool, characterized by the natural touch and unique sensibility, is considered as one of the best natural materials, including silk. For wool, currently Korea almost depends on import from foreign countries. Therefore, 100% wool products cannot be competitive in terms of pricing and current trend. To secure sustaining competitiveness in the fiber market, it is required not only to develop new wool materials that enable expression of new sensibility that cannot be expressed by conventional wool fibers, but also to pursue differentiation of fundamental sensibility and functionality by highlighting advantages for wool as a natural fiber but by reducing its disadvantages through dominant conjugation with synthetic fibers. This study attempted to improve the technology of differentiating wool-like synthetic fibers such as polyester and combine technology with sensibility through mixing with wool materials. It also aimed to develop wool-like stretch materials and pre-treating and yarn dyeing technologies that enable fabrics to main natural wool-like touch and stretch, and ultimately to develop wool mixed fabrics that have new sensibility and functionality.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.159-165
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• 2000

This study surveys the fabric mechanical properties according to the weaving design & finishing conditions of wool fabrics for quality control in the process. For this purpose, 8 kinds of Twill groups and 3 kinds of Plain groups weave fabrics, totally 428 woven fabrics are prepared with change of the yarn count, density and finishing method. Fabric thickness, bending rigidity, extensibility, shear rigidity, formability of the fabrics were measured and discussed with weaving design & finishing conditions.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.55-55
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• 2012

To improve the deodorizing and antibacterial performance of various fabrics (cotton, silk and wool) dyed with pomegranate(Punica granatum L.) extract without mordants, natural colorant solutions, which were extracted from pomegranate using water as an extractant at $90^{\circ}C$ for 90 min with a various liquor ratio (solid natural colorant material/solvent water, weight ratio) from 1:100 to 1:5 were used. To achieve the highest K/S and the deodorizing and antibacterial performance, the best liquor ratio, dyeing bath ratio, dyeing temperature and dyeing time were found to be 1:10, 1:50, $80^{\circ}C$ and 60 min, respectively. The deodorizing performance of dyed cotton, silk and wool fabrics against acetic acid vapor were found to be95,70,90%,respectively. However, all the dyed fabrics displayed outstanding deodorizing performance(99%) against ammonia gas and antibacterial performance(bacteriostatic reduction rate:99.9%) against Staphylococcu aureus and Klebsiella pneumonia(bacteriostatic reduction rate: 99.9%). It is worth noting that pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) colorants notably enhanced the deodorizing and antibacterial performance of cotton, silk and wool fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.878-888
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• 2016

In this study, wool/nylon(50/50%) blend yarn and its fabrics for tra-biz(complex word of travel+business) garment were prepared, and its wear comfort characteristics were investigated through thermal manikin and human-body wearing experiment. In addition, tactile wearing performance from fabric mechanical properties and the dimensional stability and the pilling of the fabric specimen during wearing and dry-cleaning were measured and compared with those of wool 100% fabric specimen. Heat keepability of the wool/nylon(50/50%) blend fabric by thermal manikin experiment was superior than that of wool 100% fabric, this result was verified with human-body wearing experiment and its result coincided well with this experimental result. Tactile wearing performance of the wool/nylon(50/50%) fabric from fabric mechanical properties measured by FAST system was better than that of the wool 100% fabric. The dimensional stability of the wool/nylon(50/50%) fabric was more stable than that of the wool 100% fabric. Because relaxation shrinkage was lower and hygral expansion of wool 100% fabric was more high. However, the breathability and pilling property of the wool/nylon(50/50%) fabric were inferior than those of the wool 100% fabric. The possibility of application for tra-biz garment of wool/nylon(50/50%) blend fabric was observed because of good heat keepability, tactile wearing performance and washing fastness.