• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.14-27
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to identify the ritual dress used by the 12 religious bodies of Dankun followers to help understand the teachings of these currently operating religious groups in Korea. The findings from the survey and related literatures are used to analyze the characteristics of these ritual dresses in terms of their items, construction, form, and color. The results of the study are as follows: first, most of the religious groups of Dankun followers have established the code for ritual dresses and they are named as 'chaebok'(제복, sacrificial robes), 'yebok'(예복, ceremonial dress), 'chungbok'(정복, formal attire), 'pubbok'(법복, Buddhist formal dress), or 'tobok'(도복, Taoist garments). The official headgear is usually named as 'chaemo'(제모), 'soogun'(수건), 'moja'(모자), or 'yoogun'(유건, 儒巾). Though, there are some groups which do not use any specific names for headgear. Second, the ritual dresses of most groups are composed of the 'hanbok'(한복,韓服) or usual Western-style dress, a traditional outer wear, 'po'(포,袍), and a headgear, as a basic attire. Third, the traditional 'hanbok' is worn as a base garment and an outer wear is worn above. The different types of outer wear are used: mostly 'chaksu jueui jikyoun po'(착수주의직령포, 窄袖周衣直領袍) for men and 'kwangsu jikyoung po'(광수직령포, 廣袖直領袍) and other various styles for women. The headgear from the ancient times are worn by both men and women. Fourth, the most frequently-used color for ritual dress is white for both men and women's dress. The colors from the Yin and Yang ideology are also used in the ritual dresses. Finally, the kinds of materials are not considered as an important element for the ritual dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.9
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• pp.1571-1582
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• 2001

한국 전통 의상인 한복 치마의 형태는 천의 특성에 크게 좌우된다. 이에 본 연구에서는 직물의 물성과 착장시 한복 치마 형태의 관계를 규명하고자, 8가지 직물을 선택하여 물성을 측정하고, 비접촉 3차원 인체계측시스템을 이용하여 , 치마 착장시의 5개 수평단면, 2개 수직단면을 작성하였다. 수직 단면에서는 실루엣을 나타내는 각도, 수평단면에서는 단면의 부피감과 드레이프의 형태를 나타내는 노드 간격, 거리, 각도를 측정하였다. 첫째, 경연도, 신장률, 실 두께, 직물 무게의 직물물성요인에 따라 실험 직물은 4집단으로 분류되었다. 둘째, 직물의 물성과 노드의 형태의 관계를 살펴본 결과, 직물이 뻣뻣하고 가벼울수록, 치마윗부분의 각도가 커지며 , 부드럽고, 신축성 이 있고, 무겁고, 두꺼운 실로 짜여지면, 튜블러 형태 의 실루엣을 나타내었다. 셋째 , 수직 단면도상 치마 위쪽과 아래쪽의 퍼짐각도 및 수평단면상의 둘레, 노드간의 거리, 가장 긴 파고와 같은 단면 계측치는 직물물성에 따라 추정 이 가능한 것으로 나타났다.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.1-14
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• 2015

This study mainly analyzes that designing patterns of an adult women Jeogori that takes advantage of patterns from each textbooks and complements the disadvantages based on the analysis of data from the dress evaluation and comparison of materials. The modification of a size specification is needed for the standard body as an adjust of the length of Jogori between front and back, mediation for bust width between front and back, a movement for the based line of Sup and Godae. As a result, the suitable pattern according to the standard somatotype is as below. Jeogori Length of front is determined by the length of back which was measured from side neck point to bust point plus three centimeters, and give three and half centimeters more in front. This three and half centimeters is for the curved in front of your body due to the chest. Bust width of front and back have to show the differences of human body. Bust width of front is calculated as bust girth into quarters and add two centimeters. Bust width of back gives one centimeter behind the curve from the center line in order to reduce the floating phenomenon. So, the amount of center back line dart is one centimeter. Arm hole girth measures as dividing bust girth into four. Also, Goedae width has two methods to measure. First, divide bust girth into ten equal parts and subtract 0.5 centimeters from it. Second, measure neck girth and divide it by four. Sleeve length is equal to Hwajang minus bust width of front. Hand wrist calculates in using bust girth. Make bust girth into quarters and multiply three fifths. Side line measures as deducting from Jeogori length of back to Arm hole girth and multiply two thirds.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.158-175
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to understand and improve the clothing habits and the apparel industry of North Korea in preparation for the reunification of South and North Korea. For this study, literary data, reports, periodicals, interviews and internet data of the two Koreas were reviewed. North Korean clothing habits used to be monotonous and uniform but nowadays people's clothes have become somewhat brighter in color and more diverse in design than before. In particular, liberal and individual dressing habits appeared among the privileged classes. When taking part in national events, women have to wear the traditional Korean costume, Hanbok, while men wear business suits for formal wear. In general, men don't wear Hanbok. Students have to be in uniforms but blue jeans, T-shirts with English logos were popular among them reflecting their sensitivity and openness towards western cultures. The brides usually wear pink Hanboks and the bridegrooms wear black business suits for their wedding. North Koreans also wear Hanbok on national holidays like South Koreans. Clothing is the most important item in the trade of process commission between North and South Korea. Trading items are mid to low end men's clothing for the most part due to less emphasis on fashion in the North. The processing is indirect trade and composed of sample making and contracting, sending out materials and production, carrying in goods and setting accounts. To activate South-North trade, establishment of infrastructure, stabilization of shipping, reducing high costs of distribution, building direct communication system by setting up office in a neutral zone and simplifying procedures in applying for the South and North Korea Economic Cooperation Fund. On the other hand, clothing and textiles education is carried on at art colleges, light industries colleges and commercial colleges in Pyongyang. Clothing institutes which study Hanbok and Western clothes, are installed in each city and province. Graduates who majored in clothing and textiles are posted in institutes or apparel factories. Their job is designing, patternmaking and sewing for their customers. Most of them are women and in good state of economic conditions. The North Korean clothing industry has been the core national industry that has developed based on overseas demand form the mid 1980s. The standard is that of South Korea in the early 1980s. In 1999, trade of North Korean textile products with trade counterparts such as Japan and China was $1.3 million in exports and $1.27 in imports. Of this amount the export takes up 25.4% of the total exports in North Korea. However, fundamentally even in sectors that are irrelevant to politics such as the fashion clothing industry, trust between the South and North should be a prerequisite. Only through this can exchange between North and South and economic cooperation contribute towards the reunification.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.21-34
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• 2020

The purpose of this study was to develop a new Korean fashion design using forced-relationship techniques and the traditional hanbok Korean dress and Korean traditional images as the source of the ideas. The research methods consisted of literature research and design production. In the literature research for the hanbok composition and design elements, the concept and type of forced-relationship techniques were studied. The design development process was as follows. First, 'Developing a Korean fashion design' was set as the design theme. Second, the composition and design elements of hanbok and Korean motifs, which consist of Korean images were set as fixed elements of the forced-relationship technique. Third, among the various trends in keywords, 'punk' belonging to a subculture, was set as an arbitrary element of the forced-relationship technique. Fourth, the punk fashion design elements and items were listed. Fifth, a rough sketch was performed by selectively combining fixed and arbitrary elements. Sixth, a design evaluation process was conducted to select the designs out of 52 design sketches that fit the purpose of the study. Seventh, a total of six designs were selected after making design modifications. Through this, a total of six works of women's clothing was designed, made, and presented. This study offers the possibility of developing new Korean fashion design images, and a chance to share designs based on different cultural elements in the global market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.9_10
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• pp.1418-1430
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• 2007

To strength global competitivenss and raise reputation in times of globalization, the practical use and development of traditional culture which must be discriminated against other countries wedging their ways. The purpose of this study is, 1. Make the mutual relationship between globalization of Korean traditional clothing(Hanbok) and the strean of the international fashion clear. 2. Deduce a common primary fact through commonness of international great products and a success of globalization in Asian nations 3. Suggest a scheme for globalization of Korean traditional clothing from the flank of a design and a policy on the basis of analysis. The consequence of this study is, 1. In the situation that modern international fashion focused Re-Orienting Fashion, Korean traditional clothing-Hanbok is considered as the most priceless value of application for an effective design sauce to differentiate.2. The common point between International leading fashion brands and success of globalization of each Asian nation is to pursuit an effective marketing strategy through a proper harmony with a differentiated 'uniqueness' which is motivated from their tradition, a sense of modern trend reading, and a 'generality' which fits in their lige styles. In consequence, we must develop typical design factors to be connected directly with Korean traditional image from the flank of design, For this, the typical design factors need to be applied with grafting tradition and modern ideas, simplicity, convenience, fleshly senses, and youth.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.37-52
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• 2006

This study was designed to analyze the three-dimensional shapes of Hanbok Chima made with various fabrics and to clarify the relationship between fabric properties as well as the objective and subjective evaluations of the 3D shape. For 3D shape data, a dress form (9A2 (N; nude)) was scanned with eight Chima garments made with the same number of fabrics. The scanner used was a non-contact three-dimensional human body measuring system belonging to Bunka Women's University in Japan. Data concerning the objective evaluation of the 3D shape was obtained from the measurements of the vertical and horizontal sections: those for subjective evaluation were through the sensory test after exposure to photographs from a front and side view. Four fabric factors were extracted from fabric physical properties: softness, extension, thickness of threads, and weight of fabric. Such factors as expansion (volume), sag of rear train, shape of nodes were influential in explaining the 3D shape of Hanbok Chima. From the analysis of the 3D shape, it can be deduced that with the constituent fabric stiffer, lighter, and less stretchable, the more expanded the 3D shape appeared to be. Multiple regression results showed that vertical shape factors have a greater effect on the evaluation of the 3D shape. It also implies that dependent variables of this study such as the subjective evaluation and 3D shape can be derived from regression equations on independent variables as fabric property factors or 3D shape factors. These results can enable the manufacturers to predict the 3D shape of the garment as well as the human subjective assessment to improve the efficacy of production. The investigation method proposed in this study can also be applicable to other garment items.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.106-115
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• 2010

This study's purpose is to, first survey the traditional children clothing, clothing which doesn't get studied mostly. Second, to choose the factor that can modernize. Third, to design the present one-piece dress. Fourth, to gather an understanding about traditional children clothing and make a chance for children to wear the clothing that has a traditional factor. Traditional children clothes have a same shape with adults' clothes they use five primary color and use a pattern of a symbolic meaning which means healthy and long life. For ordinary wears there are Chimajogori and Bajijogori and for ceremonial dresses they wore Durumagi, Sagyusam which are Po and Dangui and headdress was added. The shape was considered by the children growth condition so the Gorum got longer. The dragon, cicadas, butterfly, phoenix and lots of flower pattern was used by the difference with the class. 5 one-piece design adapted Jogori, skirt, Dangui, Sagyusam, Magoja and used the traditional fabric by mixing the five primary color and the five secondary color was used to make traditional color. This study expects for a chance of children to wear traditional Hanbok or Hanbok-adapted clothes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.886-896
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• 2009

Acjurumpo is one of the most representatives daily outfit of Joseon Dynasty is a clothes which has a characteristic of having creases under the armhole and it has a lot of chance to use on modern clothes design. This study wants to provide a information on traditional clothes to the public and modernize traditional clothes by designing modern women clothes by adapting Acjurumpo, one of Joseon Dynasty's men' daily outfit which is not very well-known to publics as a link of traditional clothes modernization. Acjurumpo's characteristic is usually having a knife-shape collar and having two sup and one sup, but outside sup of having two sup was more common. There were tongsu, duri, as a example of shape of sleeve. For Mu the combinations were different from Acjurum starting with a shape of trapezoid, triangle to big Mu on a body of side line. For Gorum there were two pairs of long and short Gorum, two pairs of short Gorum or one pair of short or long Gorum. Slit of po was on both side or back. Acjurumpo which was adapted on modern clothes, it was usually used on Hanbok companies that used traditional shape or similar shape to design children' clothes. This study designed three summer one-piece and two winter jacket for women clothes adapting Acjurumpo. And it was designed by using modern material adapting Acjurumpo's characteristics, changing knife-shape collar, Acjurum, mu and Gorum. This study expects for popularization of many traditional clothes developed by modern design in future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.431-446
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to analyze the gender role changes of Korean women reflected on their costumes during 20th century. To analyze the diachronic gender role changes, social environments(education, job, economy, family systems, mass-media) of 20 th century were inquired by 10 years and comparatively analyzed with 680 images of representative costumes each periods. The results are as followed. 1) $1900s{\sim}1910s$: The most representative women's gender role was a wise mother and good wife. Therefore the adopted western costume, a symbol of civilization, were represented women as a passive and sexual object of man. 2) $1920s{\sim}1930s$: 'Shin Yeosung(Modern Girl)' was the representative gender role of that time. They were the symbol of enlightenment and new education. Their costumes influenced to the changes of traditional Hanbok in functional side. 3) $1940s{\sim}1950s$: In World War II. a strong and stubborn women were wanted to support their family. They threw feminity and changed their costumes into an active and functional 'Mombbe'. 4) $1960s{\sim}1970s$: Women asserted Gender equality and resisted the traditional women's gender role. Mini Skirts and Unisex costumes were symbolic costumes reflecting the changes. 5) 1980s: The self confidence of women's gender role affected the androgynous look and body-conscious look in modern fashion. 6) $1990s{\sim}2000s$: Now, the dichotomy of gender role is not no longer effective way to understand the social changes and fashion trend rather than personal characteristics and lifestyle trends.