• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.859-879
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• 2004

As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1112-1128
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to develop royal costume design with contemporary taste depending on the character of hero, Lee San, and time flow of TV historical drama and research design discrimination and creative expression. As study methods, the literature study using books and theses concerning costume, fine art, culture and history were used for theoretical background and the empirical study method manufacturing actual costume on the basis of literature and relic were used for dress manufacture. The design concept of costume was modern & chic & clean. The costume was designed through straight silhouette, clean & bright colors excluding prime colors, style transformed to permanent straight pleats on the basis of chulik, 100% silk material focusing on high quality and pattern & decoration of the age of Three Kingdoms. As results, the designs of princess' official rob, day dress and chulik, and emperor's official robe, chulik, military dress and chun-dam-bok were developed. The design discrimination depending on social status change. In the period of princess, black, white, silver and blue were used but in the period of emperor, red, gold and black were used. It was expressed through dragon pattern and extended length used in cloth. The design discrimination depending on character change was visualized through color. Although it is not consistent with historical investigation, contemporary fashion design elements were added to royal costume through color contrast of black & white, permanent straight pleats, velcore, wristlet, extended length and layered-look.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.49-63
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of modular design observed in Korean traditional clothing. Modular design, which is one of the noticeable characteristics of modern fashion design emerged in the 20th century. This study analyzed the Korean traditional culture to investigate the characteristics that show similarities to the modular system in design. A traditional Korean house is composed of small structures called 'chae'. A traditional Korean building is composed of a basic unit space called 'kan', and the rooms are divided and recombined. Korean traditional interior design shows furniture, bedding and art works that could be used, folded then stored. Korean cuisine is served in combination with small dishes. Korean letters are combined in square shaped form to make writing and printing easy. Korean traditional clothing has a way of washing where clothing are disassembled, washed and then re-stitched. The pattern pieces are made to be rectangular shaped so that the fabric pieces can be kept in shape during washing. The rectangular shaped pattern pieces can be replaced and reused after washing. Tops and bottoms could be interchanged for color-coordination, because the shapes of the clothing were standardized. These features exhibit modular system in Korean traditional clothing design. Modular system design has common characteristics which have basic modules, pursue practical purpose, have interchangeability adapted to circumstances, and could be disassembled and re-combined. Korean traditional clothing illustrates different ways of practicing modular system, but has some common features to contemporary modular fashion design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.13-24
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to design Jugori model compatible with the body types of the middle-aged women especially from 40 to 59 years old. The result is as follows: We decided five items as the necessary items for designing jugori model : the bust girth (the breast & shoulder width), the B.P length, the neck width, the armhole circumference, and Hwa-jang. The breast & shoulder width are the size that comes out if the bust is divided by the breast & shoulder width on the basis of the side line, and Hwa-jang is a length measured with arms stretched out to 0° direction. With each person's physical characteristics considered, the application of the size of each body types and body parts is as follows: 1. The breast & shoulder width (1/4 portion) : We decided B/4+2cm as a standard size and, we adjusted the extra room on the basis of the discrepancy between the breast width and the shoulder width to make it fit well to the each body type. For the breast width (1/2 portion), we bisected the difference between the breast width and the shoulder width of the bust, and moved Gut-sup to the center of the Sup and Sup-sun for An-sup. According to the body type, the movement of the Sup for the people with big breasts gets bigger because there should be a big difference between the breast width and the shoulder width for them, and for the people with small breasts the movement will be relatively smaller. For the shoulder width (1/2 portion), we curved the back center line after we shortened as much as the difference between the amount of the shoulder width/2+1cm and of B/4+2cm. The movement of back center line will be bigger for a person with leaned-backward body type. 2. The front & back length: We made the front length to B.P length+2.5cm to have Jugori cover the breast point fully around the bust line, which is a vogue nowadays. For an upright body type, we decided the back length as (AH/2.2)+5cm. And for a bent-forward and a leaned-backward body type, we adjusted the calculation formulae differently taking the physical characteristics into account. We decided the back length (A) as (A.H/2.2)+5cm, and the front length (B) as the back length+5cm. So, (A+B) is the sum of the front length and the back length. Going back to the original formula, the front length is B.P+2.5cm. So, we can decide the back length if we subtract B.P+2.5cm from the sum of the front length and the back length. To make well-fit Jugoris, the front & back length are areas that we should pay attention to if we take each person's physical characteristics into consideration. 3. Go-dae (1/2 portion) : We decided Go-dae as the neck width/2+0.5cm. For an upright body type, because the base line which went down vertically from the tragion was straight, we generally decided Go-dae Dalim line as 1.0cm. But we decided Go-dae Dalim line down to 1.5cm for bent-forward type and up to 0.2cm for leaned-backward type because the upper half of the body of them was bent forward or leaned backward from the base line. 4. The armhole : We decided the armhole circumference as A.H/2+2cm with the whole extra room of 4cm. 5. The side line length : We can calculate the side line length to (the back length-the armhole)/2, and, in terms of the trend, 2.5cm will be appropriate.