• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2003년도 International Costume Conference
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• pp.36-36
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• 2003

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권2호
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• pp.365-381
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• 2016

This study compared and analyzed current sleeve head products for men and women to develop sleeve head products for aesthetically-designed sleeves. Men and women's sleeve head products, suitable for sleeve caps, were designed and developed based on the results. The study results are as follows. First, men and women's sleeve heads for aesthetic jacket sleeves were designed with sleeve patterns in the background. Sleeve heads and upper sleeves were additionally designed to make 7-layers for men and 4-layers for women. Second, sleeve head patterns were designed so that men's would have a whole length of 48cm, an angle of $30^{\circ}$ and a width of 4.5-7.5cm; in addition, women's would be 40cm, $30^{\circ}$ and 4-5cm. Third, the same materials were used for men's and women's sleeve head products, and the background was made from 1-layer of soft non-woven fabric. As for the sleeve heads, 2-layers and 1-layer of non-fusible interlinings were used for men's and women's, respectively. In order to provide flexibility, the materials were designed in a bias direction. For upper sleeves, 1-layer of non-woven fabric and felt were used for men's, and 1-layer of felt for women's so that an empty space caused by easing contraction can be supplemented.

• 복식
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• 제66권7호
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• pp.171-191
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• 2016

Lady Han, Gongshin-buin(恭愼夫人韓氏: 1410~1483) was Gongnyeo of Ming emperor and sister of Han Hwak(韓確:1400~1456). The aim of this study is to analyze the characteristic of costume presents for Lady Han, and to investigate a part of Joseon women's attire in the 15th century. Most of the presents for Lady Han were native products of Joseon to help alleviate her homsickness, but surviving relics are very rare. The costume-related presents included daily accessories and fabrics such as natural ornaments, embroidered pouch, needle case, wig, wooden comb, portable knife with multi-blades, various colored plain silk [綿紬] and ramie. Also, preceding research analysis of costume relic were combined with study of presents for Lady Han's. The most salient costume of Joseon women in the 15th century was the symmetric collared jacket. In addition, ornamented jeogori, pouch with pine nut stitch, chima, jangot, jangsam, black veil[羅兀] made with ra or jeung, glass beads, paintings of Ming and Joseon can be references. Illustrations show 6 representative type of Joseon women's full attires in the 15th century are as follows. First, is a combination of 'symmetric collared jacket with peacock rank badge, jeoksam, chima, underwear' and 'hoa-a, janga-a, embroidered pouch, needle case, knife with multi-blades: presents for Lady Han'. Second, formal wear focusing on symmetric collared Jacket of cloud pattern. Third, formal wear focusing on multicolor ornamented jeogori. Fourth, town wear with jangot and neoul. Fifth, formal wear with jangsam. Sixth, daily wear focusing on banbi with symmetric squre collar. Accessories and underwear shown in another illustration were same as the first illustration. Results of this study can be used as content for making historically accutate costumes as well as costume education.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2012

This study examines the influence of women's appearance decoration on professional image, preference evaluation, and inferences about age and job. For the purpose of this study, women's appearance decoration was limited to eyeglasses, earrings, hair length, and clothing color. A quasi-experimental method was used for this study. The experimental design was a $3{\times}2{\times}2{\times}4$ (eyeglasses${\times}$earrings${\times}$hair length${\times}$clothing color) factorial design. The model of stimulus photographs was a woman in her late twenties. She wore a tailored collared jacket with a white dress shirt. The subjects were 362 female college students residing in Seoul. The results of the research were as follows. First, the woman wearing glasses and earrings was perceived as more professional than the woman without glasses and earrings. The woman with short hair was evaluated to be more professional than the woman with long hair. Light grey and dark grey jackets enhanced a professional image in the woman than red and dark red jackets. The woman without glasses was preferred more than the woman wearing glasses, and the woman wearing earrings was preferred more than the woman without earrings. Second, the woman wearing wire-rimmed glasses, earrings, and grey jacket with short hair was perceived to have the highest level of professionalism. Third, the subjects perceived the woman wearing wire-rimmed glasses as looking the oldest and the woman without glasses as looking young. The subjects perceived the woman with short hair as looking younger by 3 to 4 years than the woman with long hair. Fourth, the subjects frequently considered the woman wearing the wire-rimmed glasses, the woman with short hair, and the woman wearing the grey jacket as having a professional job.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.137-153
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• 2009

Recently, young men have become more muscular as they become more interested in physical figure. However, most of these muscular men have fit problems regarding ready-made clothes. In view of this, this study aimed to develop a prototype jacket pattern for muscular men. For this study, five muscular men were selected to put on existing jacket pattern for wearing tests. The regression formula, in which muscular men body measures were adopted, was applied to unsuitable parts, especially the areas determined not to be appropriate in the evaluation of existing jacket pattern wearing tests. After the first and the second jacket pattern wearing tests, the final jacket pattern suitable for muscular men was developed. The results of the study were as follows: In order to make up for the problem of the loosening of the lapel area, due to the development of the chest muscle, the chest circumference line on the chest area of the pattern was cut to be 1.0cm wide; thus, the front length was modified with an increase. The wearing tests found that a wearers felt discomfort from the tight armhole area, so the armhole depth was set to be a little lower than that of ready-made clothes. A muscular men needs much more extra quantity in this area because the upper part of the back side is projected due to the greater development of the trapezius muscle and the deltoid than in average men. Hence, concerning the standard line for the length of the back interscye, ease of 1.0cm was added to the regression equation formula {(0.371${\times}$chest circumference+3.145)/2} in order to resolve the discomfort with the back area. Also, for the biacromion length, the upper arm protruded more than the shoulder point of the jacket because of the development of the deltoid and the upper arm muscle, and it was set to be wider than the actual shoulder. In order to solve the problem of discomfort from the narrow neck area during the wearing of a jacket owing to the development of the trapezius muscle, extra ease of 0.5cm was added to chest circumference/12-0.5cm in the existing jacket prototype to the width of back of the neck, and it was corrected to be chest circumference/12.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.203-215
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to investigate current garment sizes of women's formal jackets, targeting plus-size women in online shopping malls, and to identify effective size information involved in online apparel purchase behaviors to overcome the short comings of current garment sizes from the perspectives of consumers. Basic 88 size formal jackets from the seven companies found on the 22 websites were collected and analyzed. The data were collected from March to October 2007, and analyzed using SPSS 14.0. The results were summarized as follows. First, there was no website using standard garment size labeling with 'bust-hip-height' set up by KS K 0051 among the 22 websites. Instead, all 22 websites used garment size labeling with figures such as 88, 99, 100, 110, and 120 or with letters such as L, XL, and XXL. The websites presented no body size, but listed garment size. Furthermore, the size information was presented differently, ranging from three items of bust circumference, upper arm length, and jacket length to six items of shoulder width, bust circumference, waist circumference, sleeve width, sleeve length, and jacket length. In addition, no website presented basic information for hip circumference, despite the jacket length covering the hips. Second, a total of 85.7% the websites listed bust circumferences in 88 garment sizes collected as 100cm. Shoulder widths were presented as 39cm or 37cm. Sleeve circumferences were addressed the same, 36cm, in all websites. Third, comparing the differences between guidance sizes and measurement sizes, only 28.5% of the web sites posted guidance sizes of shoulder widths the same as those of the measurement sizes. All web sites presented guidance sizes of bust circumstances as 1 to 5cm smaller than those of the measurement sizes.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.947-954
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to find out related factors to obtain the best collar pattern of the women's tailored jacket by analyzing the difference of the shapes between the drafted pattern and that of being stitched. The experimental conditions established are as follows. The position and angle of its break point, the notch and the width of the collar and lapel are kept unchanged. The collar decrease in neckline edge and the top collar larger than the under collar. The crossing point of gorge line is changed to make the collar's roll line straight. When the pattern is changed to make the outline of the lapel straight, the amount of cloth is changed too. According to the experimental conditions, The experimental clothes using muslin were made to. put on the manikin and the suitable methods of making the collar pattern were decided. In order to find out the influence of fabric materials on the jacket' shapes, Three kinds of wool fabrics were used and the results were evaluated. Summary of the research is as follows. When 0.5cm of the neckline edge is shortened, the standing part of the collar has less wrinkles, and its position looks natural and lastly, the material has slightly affected the collar's condition. It is desirable to make the top collar 0.2cm longer than the under collar. But the length should be different according to the fabric material. It it is thick cloth, the length has to be extended. To make the roll line straight, 0.4cm of the crossing point of gorge line should be corrected. The thick cloth needs more correction. To make the lapel's outline straight, it needs outwardly round 0.2cm more and materials make little difference to affect the shape.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.71-86
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• 2008

The Purpose of this article is to study the excavated women's costume of the Joseon Dynasty, and to help identify the period of those costumes with the time of the burial unknown. The excavated women's costume is concentrated in 16th to 17th century, and the reason is due to the method of the burial. The characteristics of costumes from each period is as follows. The special features about 15th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong(round-collared jacket), Dae-gum style shirt(shirt with the squared collar facing each other), and skirt with horizontal dart. The 16th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong, wide Jegori with various length, skirt with horizontal dart, skirt with its hem folded, and pants with shoulder strap. In the 17th century, the formal dress changes to Won-sam from Dan-ryeong. The collar changes from the squared shape to the cut Dang-ko collar, and the skirt with its hem folded is not seen after the early 17th century. The long jacket changes to Dang-ui and gets settled, and the clothes becomes smaller and tighter. In the 18th century, the women's formal dress gets settled to Won-sam and Dang-ui, and the pants with shoulder strap is no longer seen. Jegori becomes shorter and smaller compared to those from the 17th century, and again gets wider and bigger in the late 18th century, and it leads to the change of making a big sized shroud.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권6호
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• pp.1056-1068
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• 2018

This study investigates whether women's wear brands' sizing systems reflect the body size and shape of their target age customers. This study classified 17 women's wear brands into three target age groups (20-30s, 30-40s, and 40-50s) and surveyed their body sizing systems for jacket items. The distribution of bust circumference and hip circumference of brands' sizing systems were compared with the size distribution of women in the 7th SizeKorea data. The brands targeting 20-30s fully produced five sizes which are the highest coverage rate, but the brands targeting 30-40s produced three sizes, and the brands targeting 40-50s produced one size. Regarding the body types, 60.0% of 20-30s target brands and 42.9% of 30-40s target brands reflected N type which is the average body type of each age group. However, the rest of the brands, including all 40-50s target brands, reflected A type which covered small portions of women. For each age group, 6 sizes with 24.0-29.0% coverage rates were proposed. With regard to the 88-94 size, three age groups overlapped: the 82-91 size was overlapped between the 20-30s and the 30-40s groups along with the 85-91 and 88-91 sizes that overlapped between the 30-40s and 40-50s groups.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.755-764
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• 2013

This study intends to use the basic patterns in 3oz bodice and 2oz sleeve padded jackets made for women in their 20s to research the proper ease of 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve, 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets. The study also proposes a method of designing padded jacket patterns according to padding thickness. The results of this study are as follows: The 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve padded jackets had the following sizes. The front and back bust, waist, and hip circumferences were calculated as B/4+2.5cm and B/4+3cm, W/4+2.6+3.3(D)cm and W/4+1.5+2.6(D)cm, and H/4+2.8cm and H/4+3cm, respectively. The length of the jacket was 62.4cm, and the sleeve length was calculated as 63.4cm. For the 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets, the front and back bust, waist, and hip circumferences were calculated as B/4+4cm and B/4+4cm, W/4+4.1+3(D)cm and W/4+2.5+3.6(D)cm, and H/4+4.3cm and H/4+4cm, respectively. The length of the jacket was 63.2cm, and the sleeve length was calculated as 64.2cm. The results of this study showed that padded jackets with thicker padding need more ease. For jackets with stitches, the decreased lengths must be added in the pattern length. The 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve, 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets all scored 4 points or higher in the movement functionality assessment, thus showing outstanding movement functionality.