• 제목/요약/키워드: woman's ceremonial robe

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뉴욕 지역 한인 퍼레이드에 나타난 한복의 유형과 특징 (Types and features of Hanbok worn in the Korean parade in New York)

  • 이은진;한재휘
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제28권4호
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    • pp.463-479
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    • 2020
  • The purpose of this study identify the types and characteristics of Hanbok worn in lunar new year parade and Korean parade in New York over the past three years. As for the research method, I first collected domestic news articles, overseas Korean news articles, and literature reviews about the history of the Korean parade in New York and the events of each year. Second, I conducted a case study on Hanbok worn in the six parades from 2017 to 2019 using photo data collected through direct surveys, 'YouTube' video footage and news article photos. Third, I interviewed people related to the New York parade about the route of buying and renting the Hanbok in the New York area. The types of Hanbok shown in the Korean parade in New York can be largely classified as ceremonial, performance, and daily costume. There were 65 ceremonial costumes in all, with men wearing Dallyeong (official's robe) and Gorlyongpo (dragon robe) and women wearing Dangui (woman's semi-formal jacket), Wonsam (woman's ceremonial robe), and Hwarot (princess's ceremonial robe). A number of performance costumes were also worn by the Chwitasu bands, Nongak ensembles and fan dancers. Finally, of the 210 daily Hanbok, most men wore Baji (pants) and Jeogori (jacket), and women wore Chima (skirts) and Jeogori. The parade attempts to showcase the beauty of Hanbok, but the costumes repeat year after year, which can feel monotonous to onlookers. This research can be used as a reference to effectively utilize Hanbok in future Korean cultural events.

자료 분석을 통해 본 18세기 원삼(圓衫)의 유래와 착용 (A Study on Wonsam (Korea Wedding Dress) in 18th Century through the Analysis of the Historical Documents and the Excavated Clothing)

  • 장인우
    • 복식
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    • 제64권5호
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    • pp.1-17
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    • 2014
  • This study explores women's Wonsam in the 18th century. Wonsam was women's wedding dress, one of the representative ceremonial garments of Korea. Wonsam began to appear in the excavated clothes around the 18th century, and we can find drawings and records of the period in Yongjae Collections by Kim-kunhaeng. The form of Wonsam after the 17th and 18th centuries showed the changes in which Seop and Mu disappeared in Baeja form of Danryoung(團領) and the right and left symmetry and side slits were highlighted. The change also included wide and long sleeves and Sakdong(색동) colorful strips on the sleeves), Hansam ornaments, and the use of the belt, which means the change of Baeja composition into our traditional costume of the age. Through the Colletions, we notice that women wore Wonsam in different colors and with varying hair accessories according to the nature of ceremony, the social status, and marital status. Concerning Wonsam, the color of clothing for the dead woman was green(喪禮), while that for marriage ceremony was red(婚禮). Wonsam with the light color was for ceremonial clothing(祭禮). The women who served in the palace wore green Wonsam and Geodumi, while a bride at the marriage ceremony wore red Wonsam or a red long-sleeved robe with Jokduri. At the ceremony of Hyeongunorye, women wore Wonsam with a wig. the dead woman wore Yemou.

관중숭불도에 나타난 16세기 복식연구 (A Study of Costumes in the Palace Painting Depicting the Worship of Buddha during the Reign of King Myungjong)

  • 홍나영;김소현
    • 복식
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    • 제38권
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    • pp.305-321
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    • 1998
  • The costume style of the Chosun dynasty changed greatly after Imjinwaeran (the Japanese Invasion of Chosun Korea, 1592∼1598). Most of the extant costumes come from the late Chosun, but some costumes produced be-fore Imjinwaeran have been excavated, and in addition, information on these older constumes is contained in contemporary literature. Of especial value in the study of pre-Imjinwaeran Chosun constumes is a mid-sixteenth century palace painting depicting the worship of Buddha, a painting in the collection of the Ho-Am Art Museum in Seoul. The present study of costume during the middle Chosun dynasty focuses on this painting, and compares it with other contemporary palace paintings, and with other contemporary palace paintings, and with Nectar Ritual Paintings. The following conclusion were drawn : * Concerning woman's hair styles of the time, married women wore a large wig. Un-married women braided their hair, and then either let it fall down their back or wore it coiled on top of their head. * The major characteristic of woman's costumes was a ample, tube-like silhouette, with the ratio of the Jeogori(Korean woman's jacket) and skirt being one-to-one. * The style of Jeogori in the painting was like that of excavated remains. Some Jeogoris were simple (without decoration), while some Jeogoris were worn with red sashes. Here we can confirm the continuity of ancient Korean costumes with those of the sixteenth century * Although the skirt covered the ankles, it did not touch the ground. Because the breadth of the skirt was not wide, it seems to have been for ordinary use. Colors of skirts were mainly white or light blue. * All men in the painting wore a headdress. Ordinary men, not Buddhist monks, wore Bok-du (headstring), Chorip (straw hat), or Heuk-rip (black hat). In this painting, men wore a Heukrip which had a round Mojeong (crown). * The men wore sashes fastened around their waist to close their coats, which was different from the late Chosun, in which men bound their sashes around their chest. That gave a ration of the bodice of the coat to the length of the skirt of one-to-one, which was consistent with that of woman's clothing. * In this painting, we cannot see the Buddhist monk's headdress that appeared later in the Chosun, such as Gokkal (peaked hat), Songnak (nun's hat), and Gamtu (horsehair cap). These kinds of headdresses, which appeared in paintings from the seventeenth century, were worn widely inside or outside the home. Buddhist monks wore a light blue long coat, called Jangsam (Buddhist monk's robe) and wore Gasa (Buddhist monk's cope), a kind of ceremonial wrap, round their body. We can see that the Gasa was very splendid in the early years of the Chosun dynasty, a continuing tradition of Buddhist monk's costumes from the Koryo dynasty.

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빅토리아 앨버트 박물관 소장 활옷의 조형성 연구 ((A) Study on the Formative Characteristics of Embroidery Panels of Hwarot at the Victoria and Albert Museum)

  • 권혜진;김지연
    • 복식
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    • 제63권7호
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    • pp.176-188
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    • 2013
  • This research examines embroidery panels of Hwarot belonging to the Victoria and Albert Museum (the V&A). There are a total of seven objects and are all disassembled into clothe pieces. They were classified into two groups according to their acquisition year. One group, four objects, was acquired by the Museum in 1920. Considering their materials, embroidery threads, techniques and formative characteristics of patterns, it can be assumed that the objects formed an original dress, Hwarot. Although they look very similar to the embroidery patterns of Hwarot belonging to National Folklore Museum of Korea, they are more finely embroidered with very thin embroidery thread that uses the Jarisu technique. There are some differences in used embroidery threads and embroidery skills between Hwarot artifacts of the National Museum of Korea and the V&A. The embroidery of the National Museum of Korea used thicker threads and longer (approximately 0.7cm) Jarisu stitch techniques. With these details, they would have been made in different time periods. Comparison of the V&A and Changdeok Palace' Hwarot objects show that their patterns' motifs are almost similar but the pattern units, expressions and embroidery techniques are different. Regarding the colors of their patterns, it is noticeable that the peonies are generally expressed in reddish and the lotus patterns are expressed in either bluish or purplish color. It seems that they are contrasted with red-colored flowers and show harmony between yin and yang symbolically. Three artifacts of another group were acquired in 1925. Two of them show patterns almost the same as those of the sleeves of Hwarot (no.33156, no.33158) in Chicago Field Museum collection. The pattern of the remaining object is very similar to Hansam of Hwarot (no.33158).

국립중앙박물관 소장 《회혼례도첩》 속 등장인물의 복식 고찰 (Analysis of Clothing in a Painting Album of a 60th Wedding Anniversary Feast in the Collection of the National Museum of Korea)

  • 이은주
    • 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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    • 제56권3호
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    • pp.76-98
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    • 2023
  • 국립중앙박물관 소장 《회혼례도첩》(덕수6375)에 묘사된 남녀 등장인물의 복식을 분석하고 《회혼례도첩》의 제작 시기를 추정한 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 주인공 노신랑은 <전안례도>와 <교배례도>에서는 평소 관원으로 착용하던 흑단령을 착용하였다. 그 외 <헌수례도>와 <접빈도>, <중뢰연도>에서는 패영 없는 자립에 옥색 포, 홍색 세조대를 둘렀다. 기럭아범은 자립에 귀 옆에 묶은 패영을 달고 흉배를 부착한 무문 흑단령을 착용하였다. 성인 남자 자손과 하객들은 도포 등 당시의 대표적인 포 종류를 착용하였는데 특히 무관으로 추정되는 인물들은 철릭, 직령을 착용하고 붉은 색 띠와 청색 계통의 띠를 신분에 맞추어 착용하였다. 징씨(徵氏) 등 안내자는 중치막과 홍단령을 착용하였으며 어린 동자들과 시동(侍童)은 중치막을 착용하였다. 술을 따르고 음식을 나르는 총각들은 땋은 머리에 소창의(小氅衣)를 입고 성인들은 전립(氈笠)에 소창의를 착용하였다. 군영 소속의 세악수들은 소색 소창의에 흑색 전복, 그리고 허리에 남색 포대 등 군복을 착용하였다. 둘째, 노신부는 <교배례도>에서는 거두미와 초록원삼 차림을 하였고 <헌수연도>에서는 남치마·옥색저고리 차림이 확인되었다. 여자 자손들은 어여머리에 비녀와 반자, 진주댕기 등의 칠보장식을 하였고 다양한 색상의 저고리에 남색과 홍색, 옥색 등의 치마를 입었다. 남치마에 초록 장옷을 입은 부인도 확인되었다. 홍치마에 초록색 회장저고리를 입은 <교배례도>의 동녀(童女) 4명은 낭자머리에 비녀 꽂고 도다익 댕기를 길게 드리웠으며 칠보족두리를 썼다. 비자(婢子)들은 어여머리에 가리마를 썼으며 양반 부인들과 유사한 치마·저고리를 착용하였으나 색상이 연했고 치마의 길이가 짧았으며 치마의 부풀림 정도가 약하였다. 기녀는 양반 부인과 비슷한 모습이었으나 색상이 덜 화려하였으며 어여머리에는 칠보장식이 없었다. 셋째, 주인공의 자립 착용, 철릭과 직령을 입은 하객들, 군영 소속 세악수 참여 등에 근거하여 회혼례의 주인공이 병조나 군영과 관련된 인물이었을 가능성을 제시하였으며 군영 악대의 전복의 소매 길이와 잠화 사용, 어여머리의 형태와 댕기, 저고리의 길이와 치마의 부풀린 형태 등에 근거하여 《회혼례도첩》의 제작 시기를 1760년대~1780년대로 추정하였다.