• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.3 no.1 s.4
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• pp.50-60
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• 2005

This research analyzes whether affected some South Korea woman's hair style comparing change of West woman's head form after the mid-1940s. This research purpose is analyze effect that examine South Korea woman and West woman's hair style and compare change special quality and get in our country hair style until 1980 after the mid-1940s. This dissertation is literature research that analyze change process of West woman's hair style and South Korea woman's hair style. Investigation method utilized dress and its ornaments connection books and treatise, beauty art connection books and treatise such as the South Korea and western dress and its ornaments. The following is the chronological analysis of the influence the western hairstyle has had on the Korean women. The hairstyles in Korea have been profoundly influenced by the western culture, especially the western makeup styles and hairstyles. Therefore, exploration of the western hair and makeup-styling conveys a great significance in conducting researches on the Korean hairstyles. Conclusion of this research is hair style of our country received much effects from make-up culture specially Occidentalism, hair style culture by each age, European beauty art culture research can assume that scientific analysis of west woman's clothes and make-up is important in our country hair style research. In the future, it is believed that the cycle of changes in hair-styling will get remarkable shortened with the advance in the computer technology, which enables the world to have a much faster access to other cultures over the Internet.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.5-20
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• 1995

The fashion of late Yi dynasty had explored a possibility of new fashional beauty from its own experiences throughout the history of Korean fashion excluding any interference of foreign fashions, and brought out some characteristics ; first, the aesthetical value focused on the more human fashion resulted in the exposure of waist. This aesthetical change in the fashion of late Yi dynasty produced out results as follows ; the length and width of jacket became short and narrow maintaining the basic form, while the width of skirt became increased to be contrasted exceptionally with the upper coat. This mode of fashion reveals the transitional movement from the emphasis on balance to that on unbalance in the late period of Yi dynasty. But regarding the fact that the proportional change by the ways of putting on skirt became to be similar to the golden ratio, we can see many examples throughout the folk paintings by Shin Yun bok, we find that the fashional beauty of that age pursued ideal harmony and unity all the time being in spite of its tendency toward non-refinement. Second, we see another peculiarity in the mode of woman's fashion from the paintings by Shin Yun-bok who always depicted the hu-man nature frankly. For example, the jacket became shorter to emphasize lady's slim waist, and underwears began to be exposed after the upper part of skirt had been to expose lady's waist while the bottom line pulled up highter than before. Thus, as the function of robe had changed from a mere means of covering into an expression of beauty, the fashion of late Yi dynasty began to express a perfectly new beauty possessing an erotic mood and sensu-ality of a woman, which was its inner aesthetic need. Third, this emergence of new fashional beauty made the mental value of man and the aesthetic views of that time quite different from the previous ones, and finally there came various expressions of a new beauty. There-fore, the woman's fashion of late Yi dynasty is noted for the exposure and emphasis on the body line of a woman after the aesthetic view-point had changed of time toward pragmatism and humanism, while upholding the traditions of Korean clothes and pride for the nation. And our ancestors realized very Korean fashional beauty by pursuing the expressional ways of gentle, indirect emphasis upon the feminine and natural beauty to exclude and ar-tificial, direct and straightforward exposures and images.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.6
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• pp.5-24
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• 2001

This paper is intended to explore femininity the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the Fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and the ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part Ⅱ of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the Aesthetic Movement and Rational Dress Movement as the anti-fashion movement in the Victorian period will be reviewed. Following are the conclusion : First, the works in Aesthetic Movement mainly include the image of sensual female. The essence of femininity is categorized by cultural value, poetic spirit. appetite for sex and self-expression. The ideal beauty of body pursued in this movement is the beauty of immatured body, which means rejection of maternity as well as appetite for sex in the form of metaphor of the power and enthusiasm of female. The features of Aesthetic Movement emphasize the image of sensual and characteristic woman. These features are expressed in the natural waist line and the vertical H silhouette of high waist, natural exposure of body by means of drapery, simplicity and decency by design without fixed forms and seemingly faded colors. Second, Rational Dress Movement attempted to evaluate the femininity in a different way and ultimately pursued masculinity. Therefore, morality, liberty, intelligence, spirituality, self-control, willingness, which had been believed to exclusively belong to male, are added to the categories of femininity. The ideal beauty of body is expressed in the form of Venus Coelestic which is refined and strong. This symbolizes woman's freeing from the fate of reproduction and subordinate relationship with male, morality, decision of one's own and willingness. The features of Rational Dress Movement represent the image of strong-willed and moral woman in its internal meaning. The features of its fashions represent the concealment of the body, emphasis on activeness in pants without decoration and simplicity in its external form. All these features resulted from the pursuit of masculinity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.92-98
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• 2007

This study analyzes the women's hair style and costume in late Chosun Dynasty appeared in Shin Yoon Bok' genre painting. Conclusions are as follows; First, in case of woman costume, the Jergori was short and the Chima was too long. The trend of simplified clothes on upper body and abundant clothes on lower body appeared. In addition, as 'geodulchima' became popular, women came to of en show an erotic beauty by exposing their underwear below chima. Second, in the women's hair style appeared in Shin Yoon Bok' genre painting, a unmarried woman did the braids and a feme covert did 'Ungeon Meori' and 'Tremeori'(a swept-back hair with the chignon) regardless of status. We can imagine the women's hair styles of a higher class who imitated those of 'Kie-sangs' through the features of Kie-sangs who were illustrated by Shin yoon bok.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.1 s.7
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• pp.35-41
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• 2006

From 1995 to 2005 the information related to clothing and textiles publicized by 6 journals regarding Elder Women's body type was collected and analyzed. The results are as follows. 1. It has been investigated into the elder woman's body type since 1995, and this subject needs a detailed study. in audition, investigation into woman's body type has been studied parts of the body for clothing construction. 2. Analysis result for measure area preponderance(Seoul area and local metropolitan city) of area, measure subject number mainly to large scale group more than 300 people that measure is consisting most know can. 3. Where the way of measurement is concerned, there are direct measurements more than indirect measurements. In case of using just direct measurement, the study often mentions necessity of indirect measurements. Therefore it is thought simultaneous measurement is the most desirable. 4. A Body type characteristic of elder woman shows a size of every part diminishes as growing older. Owing mainly to obesity of waist and abdomen, they have a changed body a measure of around the abdomen is bigger than around the hips. hips drop and the upper half of the body down, and besides, feet are changed into the flat.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.11-25
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• 2008

John William Waterhouse (1849-1917) is a painter renown for his romantic beautiful femme fatale images in the late 19th century in England. The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion in Waterhouse's femme fatale images. Waterhouse displays the devilism of femme fatale by the symbols of a wicked woman. He emphasized how wicked she is by means of water such as lake, river, and sea as well as symbols associated with demons such as forest, cave, naked woman, long hair, a monster-headed woman looking like an animal, water lily, and garden. On the other hand, he illustrates the woman's style as an image of a typical feminine beauty. Expressing naturally a fine-curved, immature girl's body with marvel-like white and clear skin in a kneeling down or crouching passive rose and depicting it as an innocent and fragile feminine image, he created a passive and lovely image of a young girl. With her eminent beauty and sex appeals, she lured men into danger. Words such as evil, women, and death had been used in describing her as femme fatale to emphasize her wickedness as well as to deliver the meaning across from the inside and to the outside. They also described her as a type of woman with body posture and fashion corresponding to the sexual ideology during the Victorian Age. His description of this fashion image was to show that femme fatale's fashion, which represents attraction and fatality, does not necessarily translate to an active fashion style that emphasizes sensuality. It also tends to minimize resistance and feelings of being threatened. Therefore, it allons us to acknowledge that even girlish body with innocent and frail-looking fashion can be a form of femme fatale, and that fashion styles is essential in forming the image of femininity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.5
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• pp.115-134
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• 2009

This study is about Christian Dior's and Martin Margiela's fashion works that create 'New look' which leads the periodic ideology, philosophies, circumstances and the trend at that time. For the systematized interpretation, this study investigates the iconology of E. Panofsky, E. H. Gombrich and N. Goodman. Based on their theories, iconological analysis paradigm is made into four phases: I. Recognition of iconological form, II. Analysis of External Elements, III. Analysis of symbolic meanings and artistic will and IV. Aesthetic enjoyment and communication with a viewer. Christian Dior treats woman as a organic and architectural structure. He falls in love with himself such as narcissus and woman who wears his works. Dior's ego is visualized by woman and his works which are the symbol of narcissism and beauty. Martin Margiela makes form of clothes and at the same time destroys. Margiela deconstructs aura of clothes and tries to make it unfamiliar. Also he changes traditional idea of beauty and creates 'ugliness' which is a notion of dialectic. Margiela transforms elements of clothes which brings variation of thinking and makes it possible to create new look. Christian Dior and Martin Margiela are the creators of new look which visualizes the notion of habitus that is the space of self-exists. Fashion dose not have to be what people wears but it could be an image itself. It means that fashion is a part of ontology and it is a 'New look' which is based on economy, the standard of periodical beauty and ideal aspects. The creation of clothes is a work of embodiment of human being where it constructed or deconstructed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.28-38
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• 2007

This study is on the image of a woman's body exposure, expressed in various situations or images in the modern fashion. The results of this study can be summarized as the following. First, either the exposure or stress of a woman's specific body parts like breast, waist, hips, or legs which can be sensed totally different from man's or the ironic disclosure of body parts always lapped around emphasizes femininity by giving full play the unique sexual beauty of a woman's body. Second, the desire of disclosure to have others' attention with the concealment as suggestive exposure expresses the eroticism. The modified eroticism is found different from the conventional concept and is based on the desire to make others notice one's existence continually by the sexual exposure dress particularly to entire the other sex, the dismantlement of changing an underwear to an outer-dress, and so forth. Third, both exposure of a woman's sexual body parts and expression of exposure to the utmost by laying a woman's entire body bare can mean sex liberty in the laissez-faire generation. This may suggest a pleasure-oriented way of thinking of the self-consolation rather than showing others, or feature the personality and the liberty endowed women with.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.128-140
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• 1999

The Psychology of putting on clothes has close relation with sexuality, and eroticism is important in clothing. Present article aims to understand eroticism correctly and to make it evaluated as an art in modern fashion and as an aesthetic to express woman\`s beauty. Modern eroticism in fashion may be divided into direct, indirect and symbolic expression made. The result are as follow: First, direct made, a representation of desire into direct, indirect and symbolic expression of body or physical curve with tight garment. Second, indirect made, a see-though technique using association, represents sexual appeal by imagination on body area hidden by clothes made of see-through material. And third symbolic made express sexual libido by representing body area or clothes which symbolizing woman\`s sexuality using materials like fur or silk. Eroticism in modern clothing, therefore, should be understood as a beauty that is expressed by human artistic desire. Further studies are needed to explain the characteristics of eroticism in every culture because human nature is apt to from diverse kind of cultures.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.35-47
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• 2004

Hair style is an expression of beauty for individuals and at the same time a clear social representation. It may be regarded as a means of knowing social recognition about social values and groups of the moment. The hair style clearly discriminated so-called the new woman, emerged during Chosun's modernization, and the old woman. Thus the purpose of this study is to examine changes in social recognition about the behavioral style of the new woman by relating them with women' s movements and with changes in female education policies. Results of the study can be described as follows. First, the new women in the 1920s were evaluated positive as those who were leading struggles against Japan and enlightenment campaigns. But between the 1920s and the 1930s, those women were thought to be negative in that they were appearance-oriented, extravagant and sticking themselves to reality. Second, how a variety of social figures recognized short-hair was determined here through reviewing the mass media of the 1920s. At that time, some men were positive about short-hair like feminists while others denied the convenience of the hair style in life and were negative about the new women's individualism and pursuance of luxurious appearance. Third, there were both positive and negative social recognitions about short-hair in the 1930s. which were supported by the mass media of that time.