• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.8
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• pp.164-178
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• 2014

Historically, white clothes have been passed down through the generations as the symbol of the Korean people. This study was motivated after coming across a text written by Lee Ok(李鈺, 1760~1815), a writer during the Joseon dynasty. Lee wrote that "Koreans mostly wear blue clothes." This raised questions regarding the wearing practice of the white clothes at the time of King Jeongjo's reign(1776~1800), and led to further studies on the matter. The results show that discussions were held about changing the color of the government official's changui(氅衣) from white to blue. An order was also given replacing white boots with black boots. Therefore, it is supposed that blue clothes phenomenon was influenced from the blue changui policy. However, this change was temporary as later generations wore preferred white with the exception being women's skirts. Women preferred blue skirts to white skirts for a long period. Detailed analysis of the white changui showed that people were burdened by high dyeing costs, and this was a big factor as studies indicated a large gap in wealth disparity. In a society that put funeral and ancestral rites as one of its priorities, the white clothes could have been favored due to its multi-functional use. Also, the noblemen who set importance on Gija(箕子) Joseon connected white clothes custom to Gija. This connotes that the reason for wearing white clothes differed depending on the class. And as white clothes were widely worn, people developed different ways of wearing the clothes for aesthetic purposes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.455-467
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the symbolic meaning and classifying the types of the style of the Costume in classical novel 'Shimchungjun' focusing on the woman's costume through the antique records and tombs bequests. Titled ladies for royal family put on 'Wooimkyoryong' and 'Sungun' as a petticoat when the ladies of Song period rode on horses. The underskirt played a part to swell a skirt for ladies. 'Bakjueui' and 'Hwangsangi' were ordinary clothes ranging from ladies of loyal family to women. The red color was limited to royal family. The ordinary clothes of women were white ramie clothes commonly and floral patterned clothes were prohibited to the ordinary clothes for women. 'Ko', a breast-tie (breast ribbon) of a Korean coat, was made of silk and women wear as an outer garment. The common people will wear 'Ko' of white ramie clothes which was very active items. The ladies of royal family and women put on shoes made of white ramie clothes, but the full dress of queen wore blue boots made of leather. The noble women wore 'Suk'(boots) made of deer skin and common people wore straw shoes regardless of gender and age. Sometimes they wore 'Woopihye' made of cowhide. In the first of Koryo era, the styles of dress were consisted of 'Monso', 'Eui', 'Po', 'Dae', 'Koh', 'Sang', 'Sungkun' and 'Kangnang'. The structure of costume for women made little difference and there was a great difference with decoration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.1
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• pp.45-60
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• 2008

This study reports a court dress culture in 1719 shown in the Scene of a Royal Banquet given by the King at Gyeong-hyeon-dang(景賢堂) of Gisagyecheop(耆社契帖). It can be summarized as follows: First, King Suk-jong(肅宗) attending a Royal Banquet for members of the Hall of Elder Statement wore the Ikseonkwan decorated with flowers, red Gollyongpo, Okdae, and Heukpiwha. The Crown Prince(王世子) also wore the Ikseonkwan decorated with flowers, black Goliyongpo, Okdae, and Heukpiwha. Second, senior statesmen(耆老臣) over the age 70 wore Sarno, Heukdallyeong with a crane rank tablet, belt, and black boots. Royal family members and officers also wore Samo, Heukdallyeong with a crane or silver pheasant rank tablet, belt, and black boots. Third, Sakum(司禁) of King's body guards wore Yungbok and Muyaebyulgam(武藝別監) wore Ja-geon and the green Jikryeong. Ui-jang-gun(儀仗軍) wore Pirip and Hongui, Haengjeon, and Unhae. Saboksikwan(司僕侍官) wore Samo, Heukdallyeong, belt, black boots, and a sword. Fourth, boy dancers(舞童) wore Buyongkwan, Kwanbok, skirt, belt, and black boots. Cheoyong-dancers(處容舞童) wore outfits in fine colors, wide pants, skirt, mask with an earring, gold colored belt, and white colored sandal. Hyeopryulrang(協律郞) wore Sarno and Heukdallyeong. Jipbak(執拍) wore Morabokdu and Noksaui, and Ak-kong(樂工) wore Whawhabokdu, Hongju-ui, Ojungdae, and Heukpiwha. Singer(歌童) wore Jajeok-dugeon, nokju-ui, and jajeokdae.

• Journal of Contemporary Eastern Asia
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.104-124
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• 2020

This paper investigates whether white-collar masculinity can play a role in the life of a far-right activist. The current study employs the methods of psychosocial analysis devised by Wendy Hollway and Tony Jefferson. Using the case of a Japanese far-right activist, it explores how the hegemony and decline of "salaryman masculinity" in Japan interacted with his life. It draws attention to the suffering of white-collar men in their struggle to comply with hegemonic masculinity. These men's suffering tends to be overlooked due to their stable socio-economic status, but it can potentially play a role in their investment in far-right discourse.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.117-130
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• 2010

The four walls of mural paintings in Afrasiab, Samarkand, have discovered: the indian-concept east wall, the west with the paintings of envoys from a number of countries bringing in King's letters or gifts, the south describing traditional ceremony celebrating the new year, the north with a picture of a Chinese princess on board beside hunting scenes. Overall, Sogdians in Afrasiab mural paintings of 7th century had following costume codes: a very short haircut or the Turkic queue, a rather-narrow-sleeved caftan with round-neck, a belt and boots. The west wall showed various costume style of a set of envoys from countries. First, a Turkic envoy had 3-6 rows of long plaits, wearing a caftan with two lapels and a belt - interestingly, Sogdian and Turkic nobles didn't wear pochettes. Second, a Chaganiyan had a hairband on his short hair, and his colorful round-neck caftan is decorated with animal-patterned medallions and a golden belt. Third, a Chach wore a jewelled hairband, putting gaiters on his pants. Forth, a Chinese was in putou with a round-neck caftan, and with a belt and sword around his waist. Lastly, also appeared a Koguryo envoy in white putou with a double-bird-feathered crown on top, wearing a long-sleeved yellow v-neck top, a belt, narrow-cuffed pants and boots. Identical to the Sogdian statues excavated in various regions of China are the appearance of big eyes and nose -similar to the warrior stone in Korea- a hairband, and a pochette down from the waist line. During this period, white and red were considered as prevailing colors for clothing: red and yellow among Turks. The costumes of characters in Afrasiab mural paintings were preferably made with the animal-patterned, sophiscated samite Zandanachi of Sogdiana.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.35-48
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• 1998

The purpose of this paper is to examine the street fashion, which is influenced by the youth culture in 1960s. Youth culture is the youth subculture which appeared multiform in the 1960s. It tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. Youth cultures as youth subculture are symbolically expressed in their style which had strong characteristics of sub-fashion and anti-fashion, and which are different from mother fashion in shape. Therefore youth subculture fashion had an effect on street fashion in the 60s. The influence that the youth culture fashion had had on the street fashion is summarized as follows: Beats fashion was intelligency look on black dress, black polo-neck shirts, black trousers, black glasses and heavy black eyeliner. Mods fashion was neat style on Edwardian suit with narrow trousers, pointer-toeshoes and smooth croped hair. Folkis fashion was ethnic look, middle east asian look, peasant look, Indian style, south america look, gypsy style, natural materials, natural dying, tie-dye, beads and hand made ornaments. Rockers fashion was violence appearance categorized 'blue collar' on black leather jacket decorated with metal studs and hand-painted insignia, blue jeans and boots for motor bike. Swinging London & the Psychedelics fashion was blend mods look with pschedelic color and motive pattern. Hippie fashion was intermix pschedelic and natural or ethnic style. It was appear to be a meaningless, unpredictable assortment of diverse items and style. Faded and tattered jeans, army jackets, vintage hat, beads, embroidered headband, white sheets, diverse theatrical costumes, sandals or bare feet, granny dress, peasant blouse, blanket cape, tie-dye T-shirts and long hair. Greasers fashion was adorned black leather jacket with chains, fringing, badges, insignia and sleeves had been crudely ripped off. They came to be known wore jeans so soaked with oil. Skinheads fashion was aggressive working class identity with donkey jacket, jeans rolled up, collarless union shirts, heavy boots, braces and hair cropped short.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.7
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• pp.167-177
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• 2002

This study revolves around the costume of the Naadam festival worn in the opening ceremony. during competition and the costume of the public. their purpose are two fold. First they are to be the main reference for the diverse Mongolian costumes that have been researched. Secondly, they will help us understand better the culture that revolves around Mongolian costumes. The results are as follows : 1) The opening ceremony costume, The opening ceremony starts with a procession of soldiers with 9 flags. The flags are made from the hairs of white horses and they signify peace and tranquility, ever since the beginning of Chinggis Khans time. The costumes resemble a European military uniform 2) The costumes for competition. $\circled1$ Wrestlers' costume comprises of a jacket with sleeves but no front and shorty shorts of red or blue colored silk, a traditional hat and traditional boots. $\circled2$ Archers' costume comprises of their traditional costume, deel, hat and boots. $\circled3$ Horse riders who are usually children wear a comfortable and simple jacket and pants. 3) The costume of the public : The general public that attended the festival were dressed in a western fashion but differ according to different age groups $\circled1$ The costumes of the younger Mongolian : The majority of the men wore traditional costumes that were appropriate to the festival, the women did not as they were more prone to the influence of fads of western cultures and dressed in a more daring fashion. In addition. the children also dressed in a more modem western fashion. $\circled2$ The costumes of the elderly Mongolian : The elderly, oblivious of whatever season it was, were dressed in a more traditional fashion which is the deel.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 1996

The purpose of the study is to analyze the dresses appeared in Nogultai. In the analysis of this study names and kinds of fabrics, colors, motifs, places of production and names of dresses were examined. In the study various kinds of fabric colors and motifs of fabrics were appeared in Nogulta. Also a variety of silks such s brocade, damask, plain silks, ra, silk gauze, hemp cloth, cotton cloth, wool and fur were found. Colors of fabrics were of blue, green, indigo blue, red, light blue, brown, yellow, black and white were described. Mostly cleouds, flowers and mixtures of floral designs were used in silk brocades, Walrus was motif the only animal revealed in silk brocade. Nanching, Hanchaw, Suchaw were famous production centers of silk damasks, silk gauge and silk ra. Also Shantung and Suchaw produced good quality plain silk. Various kinds of coats, waded coat, wadded short coat, inner jackets, vest trousers, winter cap were included. Also accessories such as belt, cap, boots, socks, money belt, pouch were described. In addition, cosmetics, cosmetic kits and names of semi precious stones were mentioned. Seasonal garments differed according to kinds of fabrics and materials used. Wadded coat, wadded short coat, vest, winter cap and wool socks appeared as winter wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.6 s.154
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• pp.840-850
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• 2006

This thesis that is written by inquiring the shoes of 1990's, is written in order to propose the method of analyzing the changes of shoes design systematically. The picture to be gathered was a content analysis low at ARS and Accessory Collegioni since though the research method took shoes to $1990{\sim}1999$. I categorized the design factors into shape, material, color, decoration. by using those category, the result of analysis of design character. In 1,990's, boots, pumps and straps were the most popular in upper, point and rounded cuban and french were the most popular in toe, leather was the most popular in materiel, suede in F/W and patent in S/S. Black was the most popular color, brown in F/W and white/beige in S/S were the second. Re-created shape that was constructed through the reconstructions of structures and shapes of shoes, shape that was expanded to other genre were appeared in character of design factor. Material image was strengthened by varying patterns of unburned calf, leopard and zebra. Recognition of shoes color was expanded by using unique colorations and abstract, fresh figure colors. Post-modem tendency was appeared like using brassiere strap instead of back strap or using round string in elegant shoes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.553-562
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• 2010

This survey investigates the conditions of summer working uniforms for contracted foodservice workers. The data were obtained from 67 workers through in-depth interviews (July 2005~October 2005). The results of study are as follows: The working environment changed to menu and cooking method (air temperature $28\sim37^{\circ}C$, humidity 72~86 %RH, radiant temperature $27\sim37^{\circ}C$, air velocity 0.14~0.37m/sec). They answered that the working environment has high temperatures, humidity, excessive noise, and liability to slide. The typical accidents were burns, cuts, slide, and ligament injuries in the workplace. Work duties consisted of cooking, serving food, washing, and cleaning up leftover food. All the employees carried out multi tasks. The primary working postures and motions were standing, crouching, and lifting. The female workers usually wore underwear (panty and brassiere), upper and lower work wear, aprons, waterproof-aprons, cotton-gloves, rubber-gloves, socks, and rubber-boots. The satisfaction of the uniform was relatively low for trousers and waterproof-aprons. The answer about the fit was generally "comfortable." They answered "back," "chest," and "head" were wet with perspiration during work. The uncomfortable parts were the crotch and neck. Questions concerning their satisfaction with the material of uniforms indicated a high rate of dissatisfaction, particularly for ventilation and absorbency. In case of the colors of the working uniform, workers preferred white color for the upper part, and black color for the lower part.