• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
• /
• 2000.09a
• /
• pp.84-85
• /
• 2000

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.46 no.5
• /
• pp.890-909
• /
• 2022

This study explores the types of clothing imported from Japan during the port-opening era and investigates the characteristics of import trade related to these clothing products. This is a literature study based on trade statistics data and books on Western clothing published in Japan during the Meiji period. Research findings are as follows: clothing products imported from Japan were divided into 6 types: 1) clothing, 2) undergarments, 3) shirts, 4) waterproof coats, 5) European-style clothing, and 6) nightgowns. "Clothing" is a unified name for any kind of garment, appearing in import records only from 1877 to 1884. Undergarments and shirts were imported from 1884. Waterproof coats were imported only in 1886 and 1898. European-style clothing and nightgowns were imported from 1902. In the total import of clothes, the proportion of clothing was the highest (48.0%), followed by undergarments (41.3%) and shirts (10.6%), while the ratio of nightgowns and raincoats was almost 0%. During the port-opening period, the change in the import value of clothes did not show a continuous increase, but rather showed a large stepwise increase over the course of several years.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.22 no.6
• /
• pp.691-698
• /
• 1998

This study investigated the clothing constructional characteristics of contemporary folk Jogori design retailed at the market. This study focussed on comparison of style variation between contemporary Jogori and traditional Jogori. The data were collected from five top contemporary folk dress makers's 997-1998 fall-winter collection. The results of this study were as following. 1) The traditional folk clothing constructional elements remained most among the con- temporary Jogori design were center back seam(Deung-Sol) and attached front bodice extensi on(Sup). Neckline shaping(Geet) and neckline binding(Dong-Jeong) were also observed frequently. 2) The most obvious changes from the traditional Jogori design were elimination of the ribbon fastener in front, adaptation of various neckline shaping used in the Yi dynasty, and lengthened garment length. 3) The western garment construction techniques applied to the contemporary Jogori design were use o( pocket and button closure. The center front extension was replaced with attached front bodice extension(Sup) for a few Jogori design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.5
• /
• pp.891-909
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examines the changes in Chinese women's clothing resulted from the introduction of Western culture in the first hal# of the 20th century in terms of Chinese view of the world and their attitude towards European culture. The clothes are divided into four types according to their characteristics : traditional Chinese type, China-Europe adjustment type, China-Europe blend type and European type. As for the research method, both literature and visual data are examined. The traditional Chinese type showed changes only in the width and length retaining the features of the traditional qipao until the 1910s. The China-Europe adjustment type used the same flat pattern making of traditional Chinese dress while imitating only the appearances of European one-piece, two-piece and three-piece dresses. It also was presented with European accessaries and hair-styles. The China-Europe blend type, starting to appear with the introduction of the three-dimensional pattern making from the Europe in the 1930s, showed a perfect mixture of European and traditional Chinese costumes in the early 1940s when the Chinese learned and adapted the European pattern making. The European type was the most modernized designs using a variety of European-style details and constructions as the traditional clothing started to have unrestricted European-style changes. Great significance can be found in the fact that the Chinese modified their garments by themselves using the pattern mating they learned from the Europe.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.21 no.4
• /
• pp.765-780
• /
• 2012

This study was investigated the clothing microclimate, subjective sensation for the improvement of traditional koran high school student uniform so called "Saenghwal Hanbok". For the purpose, casual hanbok school summer uniforms were made. They were made of 4 different textiles materials - P/R, P100, P/C, P/R/S for blouses, P/W, P100, P/R, P/W/F for skirts. Then their clothing microclimate, subjective sensation were tested at room temperature $25{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ and $50{\pm}10%$ R.H. Clothing Microclimates wearing on the blouses were good matched comfort temperature range. Subjective sensations wearing on the blouses were better than those of traditional koran clothes so called "Hanbok" and quite same for western style clothes. Thermal sensations were indicated some hot condition, and moisture sensations were indicated some wet condition but tactile sensations and comfortable sensations were agreeable. The temperatures of the forehead and the breast wearing on the skirts were indicated the same results with the cases of the blouses. Leg temperatures were some lower than the mean skin temperature, the other parts' temperatures were slightly higher than blouses but the mean skin temperatures were satisfied comfortable ranges. Subjective sensations wearing on the skirts were better than those of the other traditional clothes and even Western clothes. Thermal sensations and moisture sensations were resulted the same with the case of blouses. Currently, P/R material and P/W material seemed to be cool and respectively suitable for blouses and skirts in summer among the materials of modernized Korean traditional costumes and school uniforms, since those materials lowered skin temperature. But better, physiologically pleasant materials for summer clothes should be development in consideration of clothing microclimate and subjective sensation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.14 no.3 s.35
• /
• pp.196-207
• /
• 1990

The western heraldry influenced by the style of periodic art, the lion and the eagle charges were expressed simply and laconically in Romanesque period, laconically but forcibly in Gothic period, and elegantly and elaborately in the period of the Renaissance. The symbolical character of each charge expressed in the heraldry in the process of the changes of the times can be summarized as follows: 1) The ferocious beast like the eagle or the lion in the heraldry is symbolic of a majestic appearance of sovereign's. 2) The legendary or mythical monster in the heraldry is the symbol of holding sacred the heraldry owner endowed superhuman ability from him, or the symbol of coercion or menace to the other party on the appearance of being sized with fear. 3) The domestic animals or the poultry in the heraldry are chiefly symbolic of intrepidity, bravery, sacrifice, or faithfulness, which can be supposed a subject's loyalty to his sovereign. 4) The lamb or the cross in the heraldry is the charge concerned with Christ who brought a fundamantal thought in the middles ages. So they can be said the symbol of Christianity.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.16 no.6
• /
• pp.871-878
• /
• 2014

This study deals with formlessness designs that indicate a variety of related shapes between the human body and clothes depending on the 2D shape of fabric rather than a cubic and clear shape of fabric proportional to the human body. There have been formlessness fashion designs since the 1980s; however, there has been no attempts to define the concept of formlessness fashion designs. This study focuses on how formlessness clothing was named for clothes with no specific shape due to recognizing the body as a flat surface as referred in various prior studies and how a formlessness design is expressed. This study reviews formlessness designs from the viewpoint of eastern concepts as well as from the viewpoint of ancient Greek clothes to understand how eastern and western designers approached formlessness designs. We also simultaneously utilize a literature research and a case study of actual work. The scope of the research focuses on the case of female clothing starting from the 1980s when the formlessness trend first appeared.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.35 no.6
• /
• pp.687-699
• /
• 2011

Folk costumes in East Asia are characteristic in their colors of the five-element colors based on natural colors or achromatic colors (such as white or black) that imply the beauty of nature or the beauty of naivety. The Asian look adopts forms of Asian costumes into western costumes in terms of structure, silhouette, ornament, pattern, and color; in particular, color had very limited attributes. This study is a comparative study on colors, shown in East Asian folk costumes and the Asian look. It discovered the differences of color in East Asian folk costumes and the Asian look to discuss the backgrounds of difference. For research, it simultaneously conducted literary reviews and empirical research based on the Asian look. Asian colors that appeared in some costumes of the Asian look were influenced by East Asian costumes, while the primary color of playfulness or color for low chroma or black exuding a contemporary nuance (common in the western fashion) were prevalent. This revealed that the costume that had the attribute of playfulness in terms of structure, ornament, or patterns is adopted in western fashion through the fusion of eastern forms and pastiche. Colors of the Asian look are different from those of East Asia with superficial imitation, in which all the East Asian spirits and symbolism are lost. While folk costumes of East Asia hold symbolism derived from Asian spirits, the Asian look disintegrates the ideology of East Asian costumes and replaces it with a Postmodern playfulness.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.30-49
• /
• 2009

This study was intended to research how such Japonisme affected the western fashion and to consider that the unique Japanese fashion was implemented in the western mode as the traditional aesthetic sense got jointed with the western culture together and was expressed as the modern Japonisme beauty. The beauty of 'Date' was the aesthetic sense created focused on the noble culture of public family. On the contrary, 'Iki', 'Wabi', 'Sabi' and 'Shibusa' is the Japanese lower middle class's universal living aesthetics. 'Kawaii' is influence on an animation, cartoon and character industry as well as the whole world’s fashion style as one of the common aesthetic sense of the world people in the modern time. That is, Japanese fashion designers expressed the human body with such the aesthetic sense by the design of shape, space, fusion, amusement through clothes. It could be concluded that they created an autonomous amusement’s design world over the visual beauty of human body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.40 no.1
• /
• pp.188-201
• /
• 2016

A Clothing Department is a major fields of specialized vocational high schools. Specialized high schools with clothing related departments are located in Seoul (4 schools), Busan (2), Incheon (3), Daejeon (1), Ulsan (1), Kangwondo (1), Kyungkido (1), Kyungsangbukdo (1) and Chungcheongbukdo (1). In these 15 specialized high schools, 92 classes of clothing departments are run by 72 clothing teachers with 2,459 students enrolled. The range of object of this study is 15 clothing related departments of specialized high schools and their titles are department of Fashion Design, Clothing Design, Clothing Art, Multi Fashion Design, Fashion Textile Design, and Global Design. They were investigated by literature from previous research and education statistics from the Korean Educational Development Institute (KEDI). Websites such as 'School Information', 'portal site of Specialized High School', 'Ministry of Education-Education Statistics and Information' were also searched. The homepages of specialized high schools with clothing department were also investigated respectively. In this study, current scale, employment rate of graduates, major courses, scale of teachers of clothing major of clothing department of specialized high school were analyzed. In 2015, employment rate and college enrollment rate of vocational high schools were 46.6% and 36.6% respectively, whereas employment rate and college enrollment rate of clothing departments four specialized High Schools were 39.9% and 45.8% respectively. The number of major courses of clothing departments are 12-15, and the main subjects of the curriculum were Fashion Design, Construction of Western Clothing, Construction of Korean Clothing, Textile Materials and Mangement and Computer Graphics. Major courses consist of 90-108 weekly lesson-hours for 6 semesters. Thanks to government projects to encourage specialized high schools, the educational environment has improved in areas of practice room equipment, industry connections, field training, internship, and scholarship funds. However, despite government projects to encourage education at specialized high schools, there is a need for a more flexible education system to enhance student creativity at specialized high schools.