• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.36-44
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• 2004

This research surveys the differences of fabric mechanical properties according to the different looms and the fabric positions with relation to warp and weft weaving tensions on the Picanol and Omega looms respectively. For this purpose, the grey fabrics woven in the previous paper are processed in dyeing and finishing processes, and the processing shrinkages are measured on each processes such as dryer, scouring, pre-set, dyeing and final-set using the fabric density and width. The mechanical properties of the finished fabrics are measured and discussed with relation to the warp and weft weaving tensions of the two looms and the variations of the fabric mechanical properties according to the fabric positions are also discussed. In addition, the fabric thickness according to the fabric positions such as right, left selvedges and center of the fabrics is also measured and discussed with the characteristics of the Picanol and Omega looms.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.54-61
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• 2004

This research surveys the differences of fabric mechanical properties with the different looms and the fabric positions according to the warp and weft yarn tensions on the Vamatex and Omega-Panter looms respectively. For this purpose, the grey fabrics woven by PET filament using two test looms are dyed and finished. The processing shrinkages are measured on each processes such as dryer, scouring, pre-set, dyeing and final-set using the fabric density and width. The mechanical properties of the finished fabrics are measured and discussed with relation to the warp and weft yarn tensions of the two looms and the fabric positions. In addition, the fabric thickness according to the fabric positions such as right, left selvedges and center of the fabrics is also measured and discussed with the characteristics of the Vamatex and Omega-Panter looms.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권6호
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• pp.978-985
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• 2021

This study aims to propose a prediction model for the drape coefficient using artificial neural networks and to analyze the nonlinear relationship between the drape properties and physical properties of fabrics. The study validates the significance of each factor affecting the fabric drape through multiple linear regression analysis with a sample size of 573. The analysis constructs a model with an adjusted R² of 77.6%. Seven main factors affect the drape coefficient: Grammage, extruded length values for warp and weft (m_warp, m_weft), coefficients of quadratic terms in the tensile-force quadratic graph in the warp, weft, and bias directions (c_warp, c_weft, c_bias), and force required for 1% tension in the warp direction (f_warp). Finally, an artificial neural network was created using seven selected factors. The performance was examined by increasing the number of hidden neurons, and the most suitable number of hidden neurons was found to be 8. The mean squared error was .052, and the correlation coefficient was .863, confirming a satisfactory model. The developed artificial neural network model can be used for engineering and high-quality clothing design. It is expected to provide essential data for clothing appearance, such as the fabric drape.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제41권6호
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• pp.1098-1108
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• 2017

This paper investigated stretchability with fabric mechanical properties of one-way and two-way stretch fabrics. For this purpose, 1-way and 2-way woven fabrics were prepared using 150d PET/spandex covered yarns with different thermal treatment according to 4 kinds of wet thermal machines subsequently, fabric mechanical properties were measured and compared with regular PET fabrics. In addition, the garment formability of stretch fabrics was predicted and compared to regular fabrics according to wet thermal treatment. The weft stretchability of 2-way stretch fabric was about 10% higher than the 1-way stretch fabric. The compressibility of the stretch fabrics was 1.5 times higher than regular fabrics. The compressibility of stretch fabrics treated with CPB and rope type wet thermal machine showed higher values than other types of wet thermal machines. The bending rigidity of 2-way stretch fabric was lower than 1-way stretch fabric. Shear rigidity of 2-way stretch fabric was higher than 1-way and regular fabrics. Garment formability of 2-way stretch fabric was higher than regular and one-way stretch fabrics. Garment formability of 2-way stretch fabrics treated with wet thermal conditions under low tension showed the highest values.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.52-58
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• 1996

In order to study an applicable level for the graft finish of silk filaments and the characteristics of silk fabric, some sample fabrics were woven with grafted weft and the characteristics of sample fabrics were analyzed to evaluate the mechanical properites and the handle values according to the graft yield(%) of MMA and HEMA monomers on silk filaments. 1. The tensile properties were detected in the increase of linearity(LT) and the recovery in time of the increasing resilience(RT). 2. The bending properties were detected to have a lot of effect on the balance of bending rigidity(B) to hysteresis(2HB) according to the elastic relaxation of warp tension and the interlacing stress. 3. The shearing properities were detected to show the softness and the elastics in a case of the decrease in shearing rigidity(G) and hysteresis(2HG, 2HG5) according to the graft yields. 4. The compression properties were detected in the decrease of linearity(LC) and the uniformity of resilience(RC). It explains that the tendancies of compressible variation is not accepted. 5. The surface properities were detected to be affected by the surface forms of grafted silk filaments and the variation in the morphologies of interlacing sections. Considering the interlacing eveness, MMA grafted fabrics were accepted within the level of WOMEN'S THIN DRESS(KN-201-LDY) but HEMA grafted fabrics were not accepted. 6. The variation of handles were detected in the increase of total hand(TAV) within the levels of 65% of KOSHI and 82% of HARI on the average. 7. The handle fashions were detected in the nature of Habuta and Dechine from MAA graft but the nature of Fugi were shaped from HEMA graft in proportion to the graft yields.