• Archives of design research
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.81-92
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• 2002

Through network draft, it′s possible to describe curve draft with main motive in a lobby loom and to fulfill draft design more conveniently thanks to the development of computer device. Network draft was introduced by Alice Schlein, who is an American weaving artist, and I had ever published research paper on "The unfolding and development of network draft using computer dobby system" . The purpose of the next study was to develop the design of network draft while do make a design network draft in a dobby loom with 16 shafts, and could reach follow conclusion as a result of designing a variety of drafts. The initial of 4-end in a loom with 16 shafts was a basic condition to describe more perfect shape in comparison with draft in 8 shafts through the development of network. The development of draft line was essential to deride the pattern of fabric, and the pattern of draft is decided according to selecting key peg plan. Thereby, could get a variety of draft patterns derive from mix key peg plan with initial selected by developing the kind of draft line and applying diverse key peg plan. As for the variation and diversification of draft line, the shape of patters varied depending col the curve extent and connectivity of draft line and the size of curve. The pattern of network draft can be changed infinitely by free round curve of draft line. In addition, a variety of draft designs shall be developed by increasing the number of shaft, enlarging the scale of draft line, and developing more creative draft line.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.43-54
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• 2014

In textile industry, needs for various weave drafts have been increased to produce high qualified textile goods. One of disadvantages of traditional textile industry was spending time and money on manual sampling. Nowadays, however, weave draft design and sampling using CAD programs reduce these consumption efficiently. Therefore, this study aimed to provide high qualified woven fabrics by weave draft designs influenced by geometric patterns. First, We analyzed geometric patterns, except for dot, stripe, and checks, in fashion collections from 2009 to 2014 S/S. Then, based on these analyses, design concepts were decided. Third, weave drafts influenced by geometric patterns were designed with weave CAD program, TEX PRO 10.0 by Youngwoo CNI inc. Forth, We simulated fabrics woven by new drafts using CAD programs, depending on fibers, yarns, density of woven, colors, and finishes. Unclassified geometric patterns would be expressed by small size patterns that influenced by retro moods, square patterns with various color variation, zigzag lines, and pieces of puzzles. Three design concepts were decided as greenness, neoclassic, and romantic chic. Thus, geometric patterns for printing were created as drafts for general looms, and one repeat of each draft were provided. According to the design concepts, we designed 13 fabrics with 4 geometric patterns weaving drafts. All Drafts were designed with CAD programs. Finally, same drafts were simulated as woven fabrics for both S/S and F/W seasons by changing each element, such as fiber, yarns, density, colors, and finishes.