• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.85-90
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• 1999

A shroud is clothes for giving a dead person a bath and being finely dressed:though our routine clothes have been western, putting on a shroud has been kept comparatively well as a tradition of a conventional ceremony garments. This study is about the current using of dressing a shroud, and for presenting foundations of a way about dressing a shroud in order to make the most of this by everyone, therefore this research will be worthwhile to preserve the traditional custom of giving a dead person a bath and being finely dressed. 1. We must confirm the death of a person before we do Su-Si for controlling rightly a corse. Su-Si is ways of changing a clean clothes after bathing the dead person, tieing up hands, feet and ankles with a string, filling up a mouth, a nose and ears with a wad of cotton, laying down the dead person with his head toward east, and setting up a screen after covering the dead person with a bed sheet. 2. Here are processes of putting on a shroud. After the day of death, first of all, you must untie the string to control rightly a corpse, take off the clothes, and give a dead man a bath. You trim the dead person's fingernails and toenails, put them in O-nang, then put his hands and feet in five pouches, finally put feet in korean socks and wrap with Ak-su. You put a underwear in a overwear in order to put on the clothes easily, and then put on an upper garments after putting on trousers. And put on Sb-sin After you wash the dead person's face and his hair, you put gems and raw rice in his mouth, wrap head with cotton fabrics, and put hairs into five pouches, then put on a headgear which is filled with five pouches. 3. You tie up with hem cloth the dead person dressed a shroud after wrapping with Dae-ryum-km and So-ryumkm. 4. After you encoffin the dead person, you weave coffin strings with cotton fabrics in order to lift up the coffin easily, and lay down a red fabrics having white letters about the dead person's name or social position onto the coffin, then cover the coffin with a coffin cover : finally you leave the coffin at the former place and set up screen.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.403-409
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• 2015

Malachite and Azurite are the typical copper system pigments which used the mural paintings since ancient times. The mural painting is at risk for damages of the painting layer by atmosphere gas because it is exposed at external environment. In this study, it did experiment about an effect to Malachite and Azurite by environmental pollution gas($NO_2$, $CO_2$, $SO_2$) then analysis and estimate about test for pieces using mural painting colored that two pigments. As a result, Malachite and Azurite were changed on $NO_2$ but not changed $CO_2$ and $SO_2$. Especially as the concentration of $NO_2$ is increased, exfoliation of the pigment layer weave remarkably formed pores on the pigment particles on SEM, the phenomenon to be pieces were observed together with smaller particles. In the case of Malachite that were exposed to $NO_2$ gas, new compounds(Rouaite : dicopper (nitrate(V) trihydroxide, $Cu_2(NO_3)(OH)_3$)) was appeared by XRD analysis. Therefore, there had been able to verify the fact that the cause exfoliation and discoloration phenomena accompanied by chemical changes for Malachite and Azurite.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.357-374
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• 2001

This study analyzed the trends of fashion market in 15 branch stores of 3 major department stores in Seoul. The purposes of this study were to classify fashion zone and brands in each floor of the department stores, and to analyze the rate which a fashion brand was located department store. The results were as follows : 1. There were sundry goods on main floor, women\`s clothings on 2-4th floor, sports & golf wears and infants & children\`s clothings from 6th floor to the top in most department stores. 2. Lotte Chamshil branch had the largest number of fashion brands in it, the nest was Lotte Main store and followed by Hyundai Chunhoe branch, Shinsegae Gangnam branch, Hunndai Shinchun branch, Lotte Gangnam branch, Hyundai Main store, Hyundai Muyeuk-Center branch, and Lotte Youngdeungpo branch, etc. 3. The fashion categories of the Lotte Department stores were segmented as the Casuals (character, young, young basic, career, town, jean, city), Young worlds, Imported beautique, Madams, Designers(beautique), Intelligences, Unisex, Ladies formal wears, the Seasonables, and the Formals, Missy Careers. This was the most various fashion market segments among 3 major department stores. This store had 667 Women\`s fashion and Casual brands. The Chamshil branch and Main store were intensified the Casual & sundry goods on 5th floor. 4. The fashion categories of the Hundai Department stores were segmented as Women\`s wears, Women\`s casuals, Young-Adult, Young live, Women\`s former wears, Royal beautique and Young characters. It was less segmented than other Department stores. Total number of Women\`s fashion and casual brands were 471 brands. The market segmentation of fashion zone was well done at Chunho branch and Shinchun branch. It was intensified that Fashion sundry goods at Muyeuk-Center branch and The Women and Young fashion zone at Chunho branch. 5. The fashion categories of the Shinsaegae Department stores were segmented as Casuals (young, young character, X-, missy, career, character), Imported beautique, Designer\`s characters, Young basics, Elegance, Missy, Young weave, Original brands. This store had 304 Women\`s fashion and Casual brands. Shinsaegae has also developed it\`s own brand(PB items) and classified as the Original zone which differentiated it from other Departments. 6. The Deco was the most popular brand in the department stores, the next were Micha/Botticelli, and followed by Darks/System/lzzat Baba, Givy/Obzee/Lee won jae/Kim yeon Joo, and so on. The target of 6 out of 10 brands which were included in here were career women of age 20 to 30 ages. The price rate were from 200,000 won to 300,000 won.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.6
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• pp.65-87
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• 1982

1. Purpose: The purpose is to apply and adapt ancient textile pattern to practical life, and to contribute to the promotion of the creative development of modernization and Koreanization of textile pattern by the survey of the extent of taste for the textile pattern existent in Korean costume among costumes. 2. Hypothesis: Textile pattern is in most classical one expressed in fact, but nowadays abstract or geometric one is more exist. Consumers are in most part in forties, and so the taste cannot be ignored. Therefore aesthetic consciousness found Korean costume is more important rather than excessively bold or mordern one. 3. Method and Process: (1) This research is analysed 386 one through college student and parents of a primary or high school. (2) Taste of the pattern is comparisoned and analyzed as age. education, pocket money of the student or an income of a month in home through computer. And the analysis of the statistics research is operation through the Chi-Square Goodness of-Fit-Test. 4. Conclusion: (1) The Korean costume put on mostly party or formal dress, therefore it should be researched as an outdoor dress with traditional costume. (2) The most one is concerned in textile pattern, it's taste is different from color, constitution. Textile industry is developed not only weave pattern, gold-coverning pattern but embroidry pattern, dye pattern, therefore the various side of pattern design should be researched. (3) In Side of form, plant pattern is not only most various but highest in popularity. According to approach nowadays, all of the pattern becomes composition or geometric one with abstract tendency and so from these day pattern is necessary combinationed, researched with our people emotion. (4) The color of textile pattern is choiced individual taste. Through investige, research in various side of the modern taste and our costume, we take growing interest in the color, composition of textile, and should dressed with beauty and grace. (5) In side of size, textile pattern is choiced to individual face and body shape through research on form, color, size of these pattern, we should endeavor to dress well. (6) In side of application, most people is concerned in not only interior ornament but the costume is high. Costume research by some people of the outside and symbol with interior through the pattern analysis is not only very important but also is due to people culture.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.687-692
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• 2010

This paper surveys emission characteristics of Far-infrared of the fabrics fabricated with germanium imbedded sheath-core conjugate composite filaments. For this purpose, master batch chip was prepared with PET semi-dull chip and nano sized germanium particles and sheath-core type conjugate composite filament was spun using this master batch chip and polyester semi dull. The emission power and emissivity of the germanium imbedded fabrics were measured and investigated using FT-IR spectrophotometer by KICM- FIR 1005 measurement method. In addition, the fabric mechanical properties were measured and discussed with the effects of the optimum texturing process conditions and fabric structural design conditions. The sheath/core type PET composite germanium imbedded filaments were manufactured by the optimum spinning condition, its tenacity and breaking strain showed the same level as the regular PET filament. The tenacity and breaking strain of the DTY showed good physical properties and no problem in the weaving process. Then, wet and dry shrinkages showed higher values than those of regular PET filament. The emission power of the germanium imbedded fabric was $3.53{\times}10^2W/m^2$ at the $5-20{\mu}m$ wave length range, and emissivity was 0.874. The fabric hand of germanium imbedded fabrics was inhanced by the optimum texturing process and fabric structural design with improved mechanical properties such as fabric bending and compressional properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.56-69
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• 2013

This study studies the fabrics from excavated 17th century tombs of Mrs. Min from Yeoheung family(1586~1656), Yeo-on Kim(1596~1665) and Won-rip Choi(1618~1690) and attempts to clarify the relationship between the fashion trend in fabrics of those times and the background behind it by viewing and examining the proportion of twill fabrics to the total silk fabrics and the characteristics of its weave and patterns. Looking into fabrics from the above tombs, twill fabrics accounted for 10.4%(13 pieces) 19.3%(16 pieces) and 9.2%(9 pieces) of total silk fabrics in each of the respective tombs. This forms a remarkable contrast with the fact that there was only one piece of twill silk fabrics(0.5%) and not any from the 16th century tombs of Mrs. Yoon from Papyeong family (0.5%) and Soo-ryoon Sim(0%). In particular, the percentage of hwamun-neung(patterned twill fabrics) in each of the tombs is 8.0%(10 pieces), 13.3%(11 pieces), 9.2%(9 pieces), which is much higher than that of non-patterned one. This is common to the twill fabrics from above three 17th century tombs. Patterns of hwamun-neung(patterned twill), simplified small flower patterns or geometrical figures, from the three excavated tombs are mostly arranged sporadically with blank space. It is supposed that these figurative characteristics reflected the aesthetic sense of the gentry at that time which valued simplicity and moderation for their Confucian standard. This phenomenon of increased use and production of twill fabrics in the 17th century resulted from different factors such as wars like Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592~1598), economic difficulty, government regulations against the production of high-class fabrics, development of weaving skill and its fixation, changes of fabric production environments, and changes of aesthetic sense preferring naive and moderate things to showy ones. As for the weaving characteristics of twill fabrics from the three 17th century tombs 3 leaf warp-faced twill was often used for the ground texture and 4 leaf warp-faced one was occasionally used. For pattern texture 6 leaf weft-faced twill was frequently used, 4 leaf weft-faced twill and 3 leaf weft-faced twill were used at times, and floating one was occasionally used as well.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.43-49
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• 2016

Gold threads mean thread made by metal, it is composed various material to gold leaf, adhesive and media. The making technique and using materials of Gold threads are different from region, it can be used to distinguish country of origin. So this study finds characteristics and making techniques for flat gold threads of relics. Standard samples are made of animal glue, lacquer, red lacquer and etc. This materials are based on the scientific investigation of cultural gold threads properties. Then traditional techniques were estimated by comparison and analysis of actual cultural properties and standard samples. As a result of investigating cultural properties, it is similar to the standard sample which are mixed with red soil additives. After analysis of SEM-EDS, it is detected to Al, Si, Fe. So it is to the conclusion that traditional gold thread is made of adhesive mixed with red soil to improve gold color better. And this ways are similar with china that uses animal glue and red soil to adhesive and different from japan that uses lacquer to adhesive. Through this study, it will be used to data and reference for reappearance and making techniques of traditional gold threads.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.165-174
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• 2011

Recent years have witnessed that IT-convergence technology has become the most important issue in the global market. Along with this trend, demand for PSS(i.e., Product-Service Systems) design has been rapidly increased in the smart clothing market. A case of the PSS design research, this study aimed to identify optimum conditions for weaving of POF-based flexible textile display(abbreviated as "PFTD") for mountaineer wear with safe-guard function regarding luminescent properties. Based on the findings regarding the optimum weaving condition of PFTD, several designs of mountaineer wear were suggested in this study. A total of 15 PFTD samples were prepared under various weaving conditions of weave structures and density of POF, and the luminance values of each sample were measured. As the results, the types of PFTD with structures and density of 'satin 3:1', 'satin 2:1', 'twill 3:1' and 'twill 2:1' indicated relatively higher luminescence. And based on the results and recent sports fashion trends, two suited mountaineering wears applying PFTD were illustrated in this study.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.99-114
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• 2018

Saekdong is a unique Korean fabric that has been used since ancient times, and it is woven with the plain or satin weave so that vertical stripes appear by various colored warp threads of equal spacing. Saekdong means pleasure, joy, serenity, heavenly blessing, spirituality, wind, and abundance, expressing the optimistic and positive sentiment of Korea's forefathers. This study investigated how ancient Saekdong occurred with meanings. As a research method, this study used literature review and surfing newspapers and photographs, museum and internet search, even from other fields such as earthenware, bronze, and traditional dance. We collected Saekdong and the lifestyles of ethnic Koreans living in China, investigated the Asuka culture of Japan, and the tomb murals of Takamatsu-Chong, which are Baekje and Goguryeo settlement areas. The results are as follows: First, it expresses happy occasion, pleasure, and joy, and expresses a desire for good things to be repeated and lasting. Second, it symbolizes simple beauty, order, equality and harmony of many tribes. Third, Saekdong is life and power which represent a sacred, heavenly, mysterious bird. Fourth, it symbolizes abundance and wealth, rain, wind or fields. Finally, this study showed the brilliance and pride of Korean hanbok through Saekdong. The significance of this study is to examine the symbolism and inherent aesthetic characteristics of Saekdong and to show the unique value and spiritual heritage of the Korean people.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.141-148
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• 2012

This study investigated the structural coloration and fabric hand of the caustic reduced fabrics for emotional garment using structural color yarns, which was spun by 37 alternating nylon and polyester layers capable of producing basic colors using biomimetic technology. The colorations of the three kinds of structural color yarns were confirmed using multi angle spectro-photometer, and their triangular cross sections composed with 37 alternating nylon and polyester layers were measured using SEM and were discussed with layer length in relation with coloration and spinning conditions were also set up. The apparent color difference and reflectance of the three kinds of fabrics with different density and weave pattern were analysed as ranging from 400nm to 700nm. The optimum fabric structural design which is made by warp and weft densities(194ends/in ${\times}$ 105picks/in) and caustic reduction condition by $100^{\circ}C$ temperature and 60minutes with NaOH, 20g/l solution were decided through analysis of the mechanical properties and fabric hands of these three kinds of fabrics treated with 3 kinds of the caustic reduction conditions. And it was shown that the rate of caustic reduction was increased from 13% to 23% with increasing temperature and time of caustic reduction. The extensibility, bending rigidity and shear modulus of caustic reduction treated fabrics were decreased by treatment of caustic reduction, on the other hand fabric compressibility was increased. And it was shown that the hand value of specimen number one which was treated with temperature $100^{\circ}C$ and time 60minute was the best and the hand of this fabric was better than that of Morpho $fabric^{(R)}$ made by Teijin co. Japan.