• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.5
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• pp.193-203
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• 2003

Magoja is a jacket for men and women. Magoja was worn between the jacket, jogori and the coat durumagi; that is over the jacket and under the coat. In the 19th century, Daewon-kun, who was wearing maqua, was in China and he came back to Korea. So, it was believed that the origin of magoja was from maqua from Qing. But, there were differences between magoja and maqua in their design. Therefore, I researched the origin of magoja and tried to know the design and the method of wearing magoja in the Chosun dynasty. The results are as follows. The design of magoja, especially its collar, was different from Chinese maqua. As analyzed above, it is difficult to regard the origin of magoja as deriving from Daewon-kun's maqua, which he wore when he went to Qing. Magoja-style jacket can be found from many old pictures. The collar of those jacket, whose style was waonsam-git unlike the present-day magoja, is consistent with the collar of sagyusam or baeja. And this kind of git style had existed for a long period of time as already studied in bangryungbangbi. Furthermore, the origin of this kind of jacket dated back to the maeksu of the Sung Dynasty; maek meaning Koguryo, maeksu was understood to indicate the style of the Koguryo jacket of short sleeves for the convenience of horseback riding. Maeksu, which varied in its kind and style, had been used as the equestrian clothes in China and was assumed to be particularly put on widely during the Yuan and Sung Dynasties. Maeksu continued to exist as daegeumeui during the Ming Dynasty but, later called magua, it was worn more widely ding the Qing Dynasty of the Manchus. This kind of maeksu or magua was the jacket which could be put on the coat and this style of wearing it during the Chosun Dynasty could be confirmed by the pictures. Therefore, magoja is not the jacket which was all of sudden derived from Qing's magua but one of traditional Korean clothes of the northern provinces which had existed for a long period of time. And magoja seemed to be put on more widely during the latter part of the Chosun Dynasty because of the influence of Qing's magua.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.3 s.62
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• pp.469-482
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• 2006

The purpose of this research is to offer basic data for Jean Pants by investigating the wearing conditions and behavior of female university students in Shanghai of China. The questionnaire was administered to 426 female university students in Shanghai of China. The data was analysed by percentage, mean and frequency. The result of the survey can be summarized as follows: First, The university students women is found to be wearing the blue jean three to four days weekly and the best perferred blue jean is of the straight style with the tight covering the foot bottom. Second, when they purchase their jean pants, the factor of decision was fit and design style.

• Journal of Environmental Health Sciences
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.54-66
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• 1991

As a result of measuring illumination and making up a question at home visit directly by investigator who trained over twenty days period from October 4 to 24, 1990, in order to render help which illumination problem against house, society against eyes or framing of health instruction potgram by seizing natural lighting actual conditions of house and actual conditions of wearing spectacles and by investigating interrelationship, I can summarize as follows. 1) In property of investigation subject, woman 66.9%, In an age, the twenties was largest of 27.4%, the forties was 20.2%, the fifties was 18.6%, the thirties was 17.4%. In academic career, those of upper secondary school grauates was largest of 28.6%, those who possess university career was 25.9%, those who middle school career was 20.9%, decoding of Korean alphabet was 2%. 2) By a residence area, a big city was 43.3%, farming and fishing villages were 20.3%, the rest was a small town and the administrative office of town, township. In positon of house, the middle area was 43.6%, resident of suburb area was 38.0%. In form of house, a Korean-style house was 40.8%, a western-style house was 34.8%, an apartment house was 11.0%. In the a standard of living, the middle classes 77.2%, the lower classes were 15.3%. In residential house unit of area, from 21 to 30 unit of area was largest of 31.5%, from 10 to 20 unit of area was 19.9%, from 31 to 40 was 18.7%. 3) The wearing spectacles rate of study user was 44.1%. By the area, those who wearing spectacles was more than a half of 50.8% in the resident of big city area. As passing from the farm area to the city, that is being resident of big city was high wearing spectacles rate. In position of house, as being residence in central street showed high wearing spectacles rate. (central street was 51.5%, the middle area was 44.5% and the suburb area was 40.1%.) It seemed similarity difference a variable by position of house from wearing spectacles in standard of 1%. By form of house, wearing spectacles rate those who resident in apartment house was 49.5%, that rate those who resident in a western-style house was high of 49.0%, that rate those who resident in a Korean-style house was the lowest 39.0%. By social position of resident in room, in students case who study showed very high, as university students were very high of 62.3% idn wearing spectacles rate, middle and high school students 'were 50.0%, members of society were 47.6%, workers 20.3%. It seemed similarity difference from academic career in standard of 1%. By an age, the thirties was high of 54.1% in wearing spectacles rate, the twenties was 43.2%, the teenage was the lowest of 11.8%. 4) In illumination of study, over 200Lux was high of 40.1%. but below 99Lux which inappropriate illumination to see the books was 32.4%. Average by area, below 99Lux was 22.7% and over 400Lux was 50.0% in case of wooden floor. As examine by area, below 99Lux was high of 27.0% a case of wooden floor in the big city area, it was not good in illumination passing from the farm area(15.0%) to the city(19.0%). Average illlumination by area of the main living room below 99Lux was high of 37.5%, less than 200Lux was 58.5% of whole. In general, illumination of the main livingroom was inappropriate. By area, the big city was 32.5% below 99Lux, the middle and small city area were 33.8%, town and township area were 45.0%, farming and fishing area were 42.8%. By area, in the big city, illumination of study was 52.5% over 200Lux and 28.9% below 99Lux. In case of the middle and small city, study user of below 99Lux was 38.8% and over 200Lux was 46.9%. In case of the seat of town township, below 99Lux was 34.1% and over 200Lux was 39.7%. In case of farming and fishing area, illumination of study was 33.4% below 99Lux and 48.4% over 200Lux. It tends to high rate of inappropriate illumination. 5) By position of house, in case of wooden floor, less than 100Lux was 24.5% in central street. It was bad illumination than others position of house. In case of the main livingroom, less than 100Lux was 40.4% in the suburb area. It was bad iliumnation than others position of house. In case of study, less than 100Lux was 35.4% in the middle area, it was worse in illumination. In case of the main living room, is seemed similarity difference in standard of 1%. 6) By form of house, in case of wooden floor, illumination of less than 100Lux was 23.8% in a western-style house, it was bad illumination than others form of house. In case of the main livingroom, illumination of less than 100Lux was 47.4% in a Korean-style house, it was remarkably bad illumination than others form of house. In case of study, a Korean-style house was 38.8%, it was very bad illumination than others form of house. In case of the main livingroom and study, it seemed similatrity difference each as P < 0.01 and P < 0.05 in standard of 1%. 7) The wearing spectacles rate of those who use room of illumination over 400Lux was 40.7%, and that of those who use room of illumination less than 100Lux was 28.1%. It seemed similarity differecce in standard of 1%. 8) In period of wearing spectacles, 21.3% of total investigator-highest-was from before five years, 8.6% was from before three years. Among those who use of illumintion less than 99Lux, 34.0% began to wear spectacles from before two years 31.7% was from before five years, 30.3% was from before four years. It seemed similarity difference from period of wearing spectacles by illumination in standard of 1 %. 9) Among cause which sight grow worse, the first was that it was each 33.2% and 27.4% in response rate because watch TV nearly to wearing spectacles person and non-wearing person. The second was that a lot of seeing books was 25.3% in wearing spectacles person and response rate for dark illumination was 7.4% in nonwearing spectacles person. It seemed similarity difference in standard of 1%. (P < 0.01). 10) In experience which take medicine good for eyes, it was 50.1% in wearing spectacles person and 8.5% in non-wearing spectacles person. It seemed similarity difference in standard of 1%(P < 0.01). As we have seen above, inappropriate illumination can be a cause of wearing spectacles. Nevertheless, actually, is realities to indifferent against illumination of house. So it must learn knowledge about health obstacle of illumination through society instruction and school eduction against students as well as general residents. In case that natural lighting is inappropriate structural of house, we must be able to maintain appropriate illumination through artificial illumination. And so eyes which is core of human life have to be protected, related the authorities, related group, and all health medical personnel will organically cooperate with and make efforts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.1-14
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the style of Marlene Dietrich who was a Hollywood legend in 1930s and has influenced on modern fashion. The characteristics of Dietrich style showed androgyny, sensualism and exoticism. Dietrich has been famous for wearing tailored pantsuit on and off-screen with mannish gesture and had great effect on women's wearing pants. Her confident, sexy mannish style represented her androgyny glamourously and proved she had a taste for a classic. Her sensualism focused on her famous legs because she understood the sex appeal of woman's legs. She showed her legs by wearing pants and decorative stockings, or matching colors of stockings and shoes to make her legs look longer and sexier by illusion. Her exoticism against a backdrop of black and white image, was presented with luxurious, sensual fabrics such as furs, feathers and velvet, along with dazzling accessaries. Also she didn't forget to manipulate angles of camera and lights for the engraving figure of her own. Her charisma directed her fashion image in detail and made herself a fashion icon in 1930s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.8
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• pp.1165-1174
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to survey on the actual condition disposable coveralls of railroad rolling stock maintenance workers. The data were obtained from 100 male workers of railroad rolling stock maintenance wearing disposable coveralls using a questionnaire. The results were as follows. Disposable coveralls were exchanged into new ones in a week or 1-2 weeks. The major reasons of the exchanges were ＇Because it was contaminated(76.2%)＇ and then ＇It was torn(23.0%)＇ The response to the wearing frequency was the highest in ＇As possible as freqeuntly＇, and then ＇Sometimes＇ When workers were reluctant to wear the coveralls, the first reason was heat owing to wearing the coveralls. Therefore, wearing frequency became lowered in Summer. The torn parts of disposable coveralls most frequently were around the armhole and the crotch. The contaminated parts followed with the cuffs, the arm, and then the back. The uncomfortable parts were around the neck and the armholes. Workers felt uncomfortable because of heat and sweat caused by garment design obstructed convective airflow. Second, they complained that the coveralls make them irritated in a toilet. Third, they dissatisfied with materials of coveralls because the soils like oil were soaked into the coveralls and stained on the inner clothing. In regard of the color of coveralls, worker＇s favorite color was blue. In regard of style, the preferences to the separate style with a hood and the coveralls style with a hood were 49.0% and 25.0%, respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.1
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• pp.119-129
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• 1977

It is significant for developing the future for us to know our present age. In order to preserve our Korean costume as a fola clothes retaining our distinguished independent characterisitics and to help design the tomorrow of our Korean costume playing a role as a racial to develop the world clothing culture, a survey was conducted to investigate modern people's conscious-ness and wearing practumes of Korean costume by questionaire and interviewing methods. The results of the survey were analyzed as follows: (1) At present, Korean costumes were purchased as customtailored(64.0%) and as ready-made(17.8%) and most of them were not made at individual homes. The laundry and ironing of them were carried out at laundry shops(68.8%). Considering our present economic, social and cultural aspects, sowing, laundryand ironing will not be carried out at homes again in the future and ready made costumes seen to be produced in a large scale in the future. Garment makers and laundry shop operators should be trained how to make our Korean costumes retain our traditional beauty in the course of their production and laundry and the makers of ready-made costumes must make research how to efficiently produce ideal ready-made costumes by adopting the synchro system in their wrk odisivion. (2) The age group wearing Korean costumes most frequently was the aged people over 60 (their wearing rate; 45%-50%) and the group wearing them most frequently next io the aged people over 60, was housewives(their wearing rate; 15%-20%). Excludign aged people and housewives, other respondentsdid not wear Korean costumes very frequently. Men's wearing rate was lower their wearing rate was the younger their ages were and the less their monthly incomes were. Korean costumes were used for holiday and festival(60%), wedding and funeral ceremonies (52%), visiting and working(22%), casual wear(12.8%) and home wear(9.2%). The use of Korean costumes as casual and home wears, was lower than the use for holday, festival, visiting and working, Under our present circumstances in which our Korean people use both Western style clothes and Korean costumer, our Korean costume has lostits position as a basic and necessary requiement in Korean people's daily life and become a ceremonical and fancy costume. It is natural that the times and life change everything in our daily life. Our costume has to be made as good ceremonial and fancy clothes satisfying modern sensibility according to its new role. In order for us to get close with our clothes, a keen study must be carried out to cleat the color, material, style, function and harmony of the Korean costume matching the of the times. (3) The 47.8% of the respondents answered that they were proud of our Korean costume as our folk clothes, 47.6% replied that thought them just common and 1.1% responded that they were ashamed of it. Most of them were affirmative in feeling pride with our Korean costume. (4) Considering the functional aspect of Korean costumes, their strong points were symetric beauty, rhythmical beauty, unity feeling, harmonical beauty and detailed decorations. Their common shortcomings were lack of individuality and inadequateness for active life. The shortcomings of woman costumes were suppressing breast, making resperation difficult and in adequnteness in summer time. The main reason not to wear our Korean costumes, was due to the fact that they are incomvenient for active life. As a measure to eliminate such shortcomings, 1) the suspension system of skirt to remove the suppression of breast should be generally adopted. 2) they should be simplified in their structure to make them convenient for active life and adepuate in wearing them in hot weather in an extent to which the traditional beauty of the costume may not be lostand 3) a new technique must be explored for showing individuality by wearing method and new arrangment of colors and decorations. (5) The reasons desiring to wear Korean costumes were classifide as follows: A. Korean costumes are our traditional clothes(43.4%). B. Korean costumes are noble and beautiful(26.8%). C. They are accustomed to wear Korean costumes by habit(19.5%). D. Korean costumes are necessary for attending ceremoneis(9.5%). E. Miscellaneous reasons(0.8%). Classifying these reasons into age groups, the high age group over 40 wore them because they were easy to wear by habit and the low age group of 10-30 never thought that they were east to wear by habit. Considering that even those who were accustomed to wear Korean costumes showed a low wearing rate and that the young generation were accustomed to wear Western style clothes rather than Korean costumes, the wearing rate of Korean costumes will be reduced in the future if such trend continues. It is urgent for us to make our best efforts in order to enhance the interest of young generation in Korean costumes and not to make them lose the strong points of Korean costume in the future. (6) Conicering the plan of the respondents on what kind of clothes they were going to wear in the future, among the age group over 50, those who wanted to wear only Korean costumes were 24.8%(men) and 35.1%(women), those who wanted to wear 49.7%(men) and 47.4(women), those who wanted to wear chiefly Western style clothes were 20.7% (men) and 14.4%(women) and those who wanted to wear only Western style clothes, were 2.4% (men) and 2.1%(women). This shows that the general tendency to wear only or chiefly Korean costumes is more prevalent than that to wear only Western style. Among the age group under 50, the tendency to wear Western style clothes was conspicuous and most of the respondent answered that they would wear chiefly Western style clothes and Korean costumes occasionally. Only 5.4% of the respondent answered that they would wear only Western style clothes and this shows that meny respondents still wonted to wear Korean costumes. Those who wanted their descendants to wear what they desire, were 50.1%(men) and 68.8% (women) and those who wanted their descendants to wear Koran costumes occasionally, were 85.8%(men) and 86.3%(women). This shows that most of respondents wanted their descendants to wear Korean costumes. In order to realize, it is necessory for us to make ourdescendants recognize the preciousness of our traditional culture and modify our Korean costumes according to their taste so that they may like wearing them.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.176-187
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• 2002

The aim of this research is to establish basic materials for fashion merchandising by observing the street fashion of the juveniles and by analyzing their wearing, coordination and fashion trend. We have taken the photograph of the street fashion of 202 male teenagers and 265 female teenagers in Busan, and analyzed in the category of style, item, color, pattern, materials, hair style, shoes and accessories. We have concluded that the most frequent items were shirts (male), turtle neck (female) and jeans. The main style was casual just as jumper-look, sweater-look, gardigan-look. The typical female fashions that were hip-hop-look, twin neat-look, trench coat-look, were more various than male. For the color coordination, contrast color coordination was more dominant than similarity color coordination. Dominant patterns were solid, and also check and stripe patterns were frequently found in upper garment. The representative materials were soft for upper garment, and hard for trousers. Male teenagers prefer middle-length hair style and female teenagers prefer long hair style. The juveniles in Busan are wearing sports shoes and leather shoes in similar frequency. Their favorite accessories are bag, muffler and hat.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.38 no.11
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• pp.105-114
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the wearing satisfaction of highschool girls’summer uniforms, and to evaluate the comfort-related properties of fabrics used in the uniforms. The subjects were 441 female high school students attending three different schools in Chongju city. The data was collected using self-administered questionnaires to measure the wearing satisfaction of summer school uniforms. Factor analysis, t-test, and F-test were used for data analysis. The heat and moisture transfer properties and air permeable properties of their fabrics were evaluated to measure as comfort-related properties. 1. Most students were wearing blouses made of polyester/rayon blended fabrics and skirts made of 50% wool and 50% polyester blended fabrics. 2. Clothing care and management, and appearance of summer school uniform were assessed positively, while style and design, and the level of comfort were assessed negatively. 3. The subfactors of wearing satisfaction varied according to school, style and design, and fabrics of high school girls’summer uniforms. 4. PET fabrics were rated as having a lower value of thermal retention and a higher value of air permeability than other blouse fabrics. 5. There were not differences significantly in thermal properties according to skirt materials.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.295-302
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to research the purchasing traits and the wearing satisfaction of ski wears to provide the data needed to design ski wears to the related industries. This survey was performed during 2003's and 2004's winter with the 157 questionnaires containing 16 items of purchasing traits, 8 of design satisfaction, 12 of purchasing satisfaction and 13 of satisfaction of using convenience. The data were analysed with the frequency, the percentile, $X^2$-test, the average, the standard deviation and t-test through comparing with the groups of general people and experts, and the groups of male and female. The results were:1.The most preferred style was the two pieces style(88.5%), and then the loose style(61.1%), and the shoulder-wireless style(36.9%). 2.The imported brands were more preferred because of the design(44.1%). 3.The main place of purchasing was the ski wear speciality shop(48.4%), the main source of the merchandise information was the surrounding men(43.3%), the most significant consideration aspect when purchasing was the design(35.7%), and the rate of size perception was 51.6%. 4.The wearing satisfaction score(5) of ski wears were; the satisfaction of design was 3.24, the satisfaction of material 3.00, and the satisfaction of using convenience 3.07. 5.In the rate of design satisfaction, the female(3.10) showed higher than the male(3.35) (p<.05). 6.In the satisfaction of material, 'the discoloration'(2.37), 'the abrasion'(2.75), 'the sense of volume'(2.76) and 'the sense of touch' showed dissatisfaction. 7.In the satisfaction of using convenience, 'the pollution by lifting ticket'(2.36)was showed most dissatisfaction.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.549-559
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to analyze the comfort of sports bras by style and bra cup size. The comfort of wear was measured with compression level. The displacement of breast points (BP) after wearing a sports bra was measured. Study subjects evaluated the comfort level of the compression type and encapsulation type sports bras after walking and running. The results showed that all types of experimental sports bras provided more coverage than everyday bras. The compression type bra placed more pressure on the breast, chest, and under-bust than the encapsulation type bra. The BP distance decreased for all types. The C cup subjects' breasts were raised after wearing the sports bras. The B cup subjects had less comfort with the compression style bra than C cup subjects. The racer back style bra with high neckline and small band girth placed more pressure than others. They were difficult to don and doff and the least comfortable. These results imply that the racer back compression style sports bra was uncomfortable for women with large breast, while the encapsulation style bra with the compressing panel at upper chest was the most comfortable. The bras that shortened BP distance placed more pressure on the breast. But the bra that raised and shorted the distance of BP provided better comfort for large-breasted subjects.