• Title/Summary/Keyword: waves and currents

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Geomorphological Properties and Changes on River-Mouth Bar at Song-cheon River (송천 하구 사주의 지형 특성과 변화 과정)

  • Lee, Gwang-Ryul
    • Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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    • v.46 no.6
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    • pp.693-706
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    • 2011
  • The Geomorphological properties and ages of river-mouth bar at Song-cheon River in the East Coast of Korea, Yeongdeok-gun, Gyeongbuk Province are estimated, and the long-term and short-term changing processes and causes are analyzed. Sand grains of the bar near the coastline show the finer trends from south to north and these can be attributed to the northward movement of waves and long-shore currents. The absolute ages of bar and nearby coastal sand dune are less than approximately 100 years ago, indicating that the bar has experienced the active geomorphological changes. While the inlet located at south part of the bar between 1971 and 1995, the inlet has located at north or middle part since 1995. These may caused by the changes of movement directions of waves and long-shore currents due to the apparent northward movements of winds and currents. In short-term, the higher elevation, larger area, simpler landform relief and more variable location of inlet and morphology of bar can be observed between September and March due to the dominance of sedimentary processes by wave and wind processes.

The Local Scour around Submarine Pipelines in the Interaction Region Combined with Waves and Currents (파랑과 정상흐름의 공존역에서 해저관로 주변의 국부세굴)

  • Kim, Kyoung-Ho;Lee, Ho-Jin;Kim, Wan-Shik
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.20 no.5
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    • pp.510-521
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    • 2008
  • In the study, experiments are performed in the interaction region combined with wave and current to investigate the characteristics of local scour around submarine pipelines. Wave generator and current generator are used for the experiments and two current directions were used; co-direction and counter direction to the wave. The local scour depths around the pipeline are obtained according to the various pipe diameters(D), wave periods(T), wave heights(H), and current velocities(V). The experiments show that the maximum equilibrium local scour depth increases with pipe diameter, wave period, wave height, and current velocity. Using the experimental results, the correlations of scour depth and parameters such as Shields parameter($\theta$), Froude number(Fr), period parameter, Keulegan-Carpenter number(KC), Ursell number($U_R$), modified Ursell number($U_{RP}$) and ratio of velocities($U_{c}/(U_{c}+U_{m})$) are analyzed. In the interaction region combined with waves and currents, Froude number and Shields parameter are found the main parameters to cause the local scour around the submarine pipelines and this means that current governs the scour within any limits of the currents.

Observation of Semi-diurnal Internal Tides and Near-inertial Waves at the Shelf Break of the East China Sea

  • Park, Jae-Hun;Lie, Heung-Jae;Guo, Binghuo
    • Ocean and Polar Research
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    • v.33 no.4
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    • pp.409-419
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    • 2011
  • Semi-diurnal internal tides and near-inertial waves are investigated using moored current meter measurements at four sites along the shelf break of the East China Sea during August 1987 and May-June 1988. Each mooring is equipped with four current meters spanning from near surface to near bottom. Spectral analyses of all current data reveal dominant spectra at the semi-diurnal frequency band, where the upper and lower current measurements show out-of-phase relationship between them with significant coherences. These are consistent with typical characteristics of the first-mode semi-diurnal internal tide. Strong intensification of the near-bottom baroclinic currents is observed only at one site, where the ratio of the bottom slope to the slope of the internal-wave characteristics at the semi-diurnal frequency is close to unity. An energetic near-inertial wave event is observed during the first half of May-June 1988 observation at two mooring sites. Rotary spectra reveal that the most dominant signal is clockwise rotating motion at the near-inertial frequency band. Upward phase and downward energy propagations, shown in time-depth contour plots of near-inertial bandpass filtered currents, are confirmed by cross correlations between the upper- and lower-layer current measurements. The upward-propagating phase speed is estimated to be about 0.13 cm $s^{-1}$ at both sites. Significant coherences and in-phase relationships of near-inertial currents at the same or similar depths between the two sites are observed in spite of their long distance of about 110 km.

Nonlinear Irregular Waves-current Interaction on Flow Fields with Wave Breaking around Permeable Submerged Breakwater (투과성잠제 주변에서 쇄파를 동반한 불규칙파-흐름장의 상호작용)

  • Lee, Kwang-Ho;Bae, Ju-Hyun;An, Sung-Wook;Kim, Do-Sam
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.30 no.2
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    • pp.39-50
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    • 2018
  • In this study, the nonlinear interaction of irregular waves with wave breaking and currents around permeable submerged breakwater was investigated with the aid of olaFlow model which is open source CFD software published under the GPL license. The irregular wave performance of olaFlow applied in this study was verified by comparing and evaluating the target frequency spectrum and the generated frequency spectrum for applicability to irregular waves. Based on the applicability of this numerical model to irregular wave fields, in the coexistence fields of irregular waves and currents, the characteristics of wave height, frequency spectrum, breaking waves, averaged velocity and turbulent kinetic energy around porous submerged breakwater with the respect to the beach type and current direction versus wave propagation were carefully investigated. The numerical results revealed that the shape of wave breaking on the crown of the submerged breakwater and the formation of the mean flow velocity around the structure depend greatly on the current directions and the type of the beach. In addition, it was found that the wave height fluctuation due to the current direction with respect to the wave propagation is closely related to the turbulent kinetic energy.

A Case Study of Sediment Transport on Trenched Backfill Granular and Cohesive Material due to Wave and Current

  • Choi, Byoung-Yeol;Lee, Sang-Gil;Kim, Jin-Kwang;Oh, Jin-Soo
    • Journal of Advanced Research in Ocean Engineering
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    • v.2 no.2
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    • pp.86-98
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    • 2016
  • In this study, after the installation of a subsea pipeline, backfilling was performed in the trenched area. During these operations, a stability problem in the subsea pipeline occurred. The pipeline was directly impacted by environmental loading such as waves and currents that were caused by backfill material when scouring or sediment transport and siltation was carried out. Therefore, this study reviewed whether trenching was necessary, and conducted research into an indigenous seabed property that contains granular soil. A study of cohesive soil was also conducted in order to cross-correlate after calculating the values of the critical Shields parameter relevant to elements of the external environment such as waves and current, and the shear Shields parameter that depends on the actual shearing stress. In case of 1), sedimentation or erosion does not occur. In the case of 2), partial sedimentation or erosion occurs. If the case is 3), full sedimentation or erosion occurs. Therefore, in the cases of 1) or 2), problems in structural subsea pipeline stability will not occur even if partial sedimentation or erosion occurs. This should be reflected particularly in cases with granular and cohesive soil when a reduction in shear strength occurs by cyclic currents and waves. In addition, since backfilling material does not affect the original seabed shear strength, a set-up factor should be considered to use a reduced of the shear strength in the original seabed.

Proposal of Empirical Formula for Bedform Size on West Coast of Korea (서해안의 해저표면형상 예측 경험식 제안)

  • Kim, Hyoseob;Yoo, Hojun;Jang, Changhwan
    • Journal of Wetlands Research
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    • v.14 no.4
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    • pp.457-469
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    • 2012
  • Bedform data at 4 shallow zones in the Yellow Sea where waves as well as tidal range are high and bed material is relatively coarse were collected and analyzed here. Water depths in the study area where the bedform data were collected are 10 ~ 65 meters, and ripple lengths well developed are between 6 ~ 13 meters. Existing empirical formula for prediction of ripple length as for coexistence of waves and currents include Khelifa and Ouellet(2000) and Soulsby(2005), both of which have been based on laboratory measurements, or field measurements at different physical environment from the Yellow Sea with respect to tidal range, wave strength, and bed material. New scaling factors are proposed here for better prediction of the ripple length on coastal zone in the Yellow Sea.

Wave Modeling considering Water Level Changes and Currents Effects (수위변화와 흐름효과를 고려한 파랑모델링)

  • Eum, Ho-Sik;Kang, Tae-Soon;Nam, Soo-Yong;Jeong, Won-Moo
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.28 no.6
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    • pp.383-396
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    • 2016
  • In this study, wave model was conducted on the presence or absence of water level changes and currents effects in coastal waters coexisting with waves and currents, then the results were compared. The flow field applied the results of the RIAMOM model and the wave model applied the SWAN model. Among ECMWF, NCEP and JMA, wind data applied JMA data sets which agreed well with the observed data comparatively. Numerical simulation was conducted for 8 months from January to August 2016. For each case, the deviation of wave height was calculated for the high wave of more than 2.5 m for comparison with observed data. As a result, the deviation of wave height was not significant both considering water level changes and currents effects or not at wave observation stations installed in deep waters. However, a significant deviation of wave height of 5~10% was obtained depending on water level changes and currents effects at the comparison point in shallow waters.

Effects of Lemakalim, a Potassium Channel Opener, on the Contractility and Electrical Activity of the Antral Circular Muscle in Guinea-Pig Stomach

  • Kim, Sung-Joon;Jun, Jae-Yeoul;Choi, Youn-Baik;Kim, Ki-Whan;Kim, Woo-Gyeum
    • The Korean Journal of Physiology
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    • v.28 no.1
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    • pp.37-50
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    • 1994
  • Synthetic potassium channel openers (KCOs) are agents capable of opening K-channels in excitable cells. These agents are known to have their maximal potency in the smooth muscle tissue, especially in the vascular smooth muscle. Much attention has been focused on the type of K-channel that is responsible for mediating the effects of KCOs. As the KCO-induced changes are antagonized by glibenclamide, an $K_{ATP}$ (ATP-sensitive K-channel) blocker in the pancreatic ${\beta}-cell,\;K_{ATP}$ was suggested to be the channel responsible. However, there also are many results in favor of other types of K-channel $$(maxi-K,\;small\;conductance\;K_{Ca,}\; SK_{ATP}) mediating the effects of KCOs. Effects of lemakalim, (-)enantiomer of cromakalim (BRL 34915), on the spontaneous contractions and slow waves, were investigated in the antral circular muscle of the guinea-pig stomach. Membrane currents and the effects on membrane currents and single channel activities were also measured in single smooth muscle cells and excised membrane patches by using the patch clamp method. Lemakalim induced hyperpolarization and inhibited spontaneous contractions in a dose-dependent manner. These effects were blocked by glibenclamide and low concentrations of tetraethyl ammonium (< mM). Glibenclamide blocked the effect of lemakalim on the membrane potential and slow waves. The mechanoinhibitory effect of lemakalim was blocked by pretreatment with glibenclamide. In a whole ceIl patch clamp condition, lemakalim largely increased outward K currents. These outward K currents were blocked by TEA, glibenclamide and a high concentration of intracelIular EGTA (10 mM). Volatage-gated Ca currents were not affected by lemakalim. In inside-out patch clamp experiments, lemakalim increased the opening frequency of the large conductance $Ca^{2+}-activated$ K channels $(BK_{Ca},\;Maxi-K).$ From these results, it is suggested that lemakalim induces hyperpolarization by opening K-channels which are sensitive to internal Ca and such a hyperpolarization leads to the inhibition of the spontaneous contraction.

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[$PGE_2$ Regulates Pacemaker Currents through $EP_2-Receptor$ in Cultured Interstitial Cells of Cajal from Murine Small Intestine

  • Choi, Seok;Cho, Kyung-Won;Reu, Jong-Hyun;Kim, Jun-Soo;Mun, Hyun-Sik;Kim, Myung-Young;Park, Kwang-Chul;Heo, Gwang-Sik;Chang, Sung-Jong;Yeum, Cheol-Ho;Yoon, Pyung-Jin;Jun, Jae-Yeoul
    • The Korean Journal of Physiology and Pharmacology
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    • v.8 no.3
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    • pp.153-159
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    • 2004
  • The interstitial cells of Cajal (ICCs) are the pacemaker cells in gastrointestinal tract and generate electrical rhythmicity in gastrointestinal muscles. Therefore, ICC may be modulated by endogenous agents such as neurotransmitter, hormones, and prostaglandins (PGs). In the present study, we investigated the effects of prostaglandins, especially $PGE_2$, on pacemaker currents in cultured ICCs from murine small intestine by using whole-cell patch clamp techniques. ICCs generated spontaneous slow waves under voltage-clamp conditions and showed a mean amplitude of $-452{\pm}39\;pA$ and frequency of $18{\pm}2$ cycles/min (n=6). Treatments of the cells with $PGE_2$ $(1\;{\mu}M)$ decreased both the frequency and amplitude of the pacemaker currents and increased the resting currents in the outward direction. $PGE_2$ had only inhibitory effects on pacemaker currents and this inhibitory effect was dose-dependent. For characterization of specific membrane EP receptor subtypes, involved in the effects of $PGE_2$ on pacemaker currents in ICCs, EP receptor agonists were used: Butaprost $(1\;{\mu}M)$, $EP_2$ receptor agonist, reduced the spontaneous inward current frequency and amplitude in cultured ICCs (n=5). However sulprostone $(1\;{\mu}M)$, a mixed $EP_1$ and $EP_3$ agonist, had no effects on the frequency, amplitude and resting currents of pacemaker currents (n=5). SQ-22536 (an inhibitor of adenylate cyclase; $100\;{\mu}M$) and ODQ (an inhibitor of guanylate cyclase; $100\;{\mu}M$) had no effects on $PGE_2$ actions of pacemaker currents. These observations indicate that $PGE_2$ alter directly the pacemaker currents in ICCs, and that the $PGE_2$ receptor subtypes involved are the $EP_2$ receptor, independent of cyclic AMP- and GMP-dependent pathway.

On the Wave Prediction Model with Currents and Sha]low Water Effects (흐름과 천해효과를 고려한 파낭추정모형)

  • 윤종태
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.4 no.1
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    • pp.18-25
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    • 1992
  • A discrete spectral model for generation, propagation and dissipation of wind waves for arbitrary depth and current is presented. This model incorporates wave current interaction, including changes of absolute frequencies due to unsteadiness of depth and currents. The numerical scheme for propagation if basically second-order accurate, and effects of refraction and frequency shills due to unsteadiness of depth and current are calculated on a fixed grid, also using second-order scheme.

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