• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.77-89
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• 1991

Based on Boussinesq equation, the parabolic approximation equation is used to analyse the propagation of shallow water waves with currents over slowly varying depth. Rip currents (jet-like) occur mainly in shallow waters where the Ursell parameter significatly exceeds the range of application of Stokes wave theory. We employ the nonlinear parabolic approximation equation which is valid for waves of large Ursell parameters and small scale currents. Two types of currents are considered; relatively strong and relatively weak currents. The wave propagating over rip currents on a sloping bottom experiences a shoaling due to the variations of depth and current velocity as well as refraction and diffraction due to the vorticity of currents. Numerical analyses for a nonlinear theory are valid before the breaking point.

• The Korean Journal of Physiology and Pharmacology
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.361-368
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• 1998

The spontaneous contractions of gastric smooth muscles are regulated by slow waves, which are modulated by both nervous system and humoral agents. This study was designed to examine the effects of prostaglandin $E_2$ ($PGE_2$) on the contractile and electrical activities of antral smooth muscles in guinea-pig stomach, using an intracellular recording technique. To elucidate the underlying mechanism for its effect on contractility, ionic currents were also measured using a whole-cell patch clamp method. The basal tone by $PGE_2$ was variable, whereas the magnitude of phasic contractions was reduced ($19.0{\pm}2.1%$, n=19). The resting membrane potentials were hyperpolarized ($-4.4{\pm}0.5%$ mV, n=10), and plateau potentials were lowered ($-2.9{\pm}0.5%$ mV, n=10). In most cases, however, the initial peak potentials of slow waves were depolarized more by $PGE_2$ than those of control. The frequency of the slows wave was increased from $5.7{\pm}0.2$ cycles/min to $6.5{\pm}0.2$ (n=22). Voltage-operated $Ca^{2+}$ currents were decreased by $PGE_2$ (n=5). Voltage-operated $K^+$ currents, both Ca-dependent and Ca-independent, were increased (n=5). These results suggest that $PGE_2$ plays an important role in the modulation of gastric smooth muscle activities, and its inhibitory effects on the contractility and activities of slow waves are resulted from both decrease of $Ca^{2+}$ currents and increase of $K^+$ currents.

• Water Engineering Research
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.203-213
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• 2002

A wide-angle parabolic approximation equation model considering the interaction between wave and current is employed to simulate the deformation of irregular waves over a submerged shoal. It is found that the model gives qualitative agreements with experimental data for the cases of breaking waves around the shoal. Thus, the effect of breaking-induced current on the refraction-diffraction of waves is well understood.

• Bulletin of the Korean Space Science Society
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.40-40
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• 2003

When the magnetotail is disturbed by an impulsive input such as the substorm onset, compressional magnetohydrodynamic (MHD) waves play an important role in delivering perturbed energy and exciting various wave modes and currents. The plasmasheet, in which relatively hot plasmas exist, is surrounded by relatively cold plasmas at the plasma sheet boundary layer (PSBL) and the equatorial plasmasphere. Since the Alfven speed significantly varies near these regions, the compressional waves are expected to undergo mode conversion by inhomogeneity at the boundary between cold and hot plasma regions. We investigate how the initial compressional MHD wave energy is reflected, transmitted, and absorbed across that boundary by adopting the invariant imbedding method (IIM) which gives the exact reflection, transmission, and absorption coefficients without any theoretical approximations for given frequencies and wave numbers. The IIM method is very useful in quantifying the reflection and transmission of compressional waves in the sense that we can calculate how much fast mode wave energy is delievered into shear Alfven waves or field-aligned currents. Our results show that strongly localized absorption occurs at the boundary region. This feature suggests that localized field-aligned currents can be impulsively excited at such boundary regions by any compressional disturbances, which is highly associated with impulsive auroral brightening at the substorm onset. We compare our results with previous studies in cold inhomogeneous plasmas.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.21-28
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• 2011

The primary purpose of the present study was to investigate the mechanism causing scour around a pipeline placed on the seabed in a shallow water zone. Such submarine pipelines are usually exposed to currents and waves. The present experiments made estimates for each different flow type. The scour width and depth in the equilibrium scour phase were analyzed by non-dimensional parameters. The experiment in this study considered various parameters: pipe diameters, wave periods, wave heights, and current velocities. Using the experimental results, the correlations of scour width, scour depth, and main non-dimensional parameters such as the Fr number and KC number were analyzed. In the case of steady currents, the scour hole was closely related to the bottom velocity, while the scour hole in waves showed a relatively low correlation to the bottom velocity because when exposed to waves the scour hole was restricted according to the movement distance of the water particles during a wave period. However, the scour width under a steady current was not limited because vortex shedding was well developed from having enough time and distance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.247-258
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• 2014

To evaluate the influence of the external force components on the littoral currents in the Gusipo beach, Jeonbuk, West Coast of Korea where a wide tidal sand flat developed, a coupled hydrodynamic model considered real time tidal currents and wave-induced currents was constructed in which the EFDC for tides and tidal currents, the SWAN for waves and the SHORECIRC for wave-induced currents were used as the hindcasting models. A series of field observations for tides, tidal currents and incident waves were carried out and especially to observe the littoral currents in the tidal sand flat, the GPS mounted and light weight drogues were used. Also wind data were collected from the adjacent weather station. To analyze the littoral current components, the numerical drogue tracking results considered real time winds, tides and waves were compared with the field drogue data. The drift speed of numerical drogues was reproduced as the range of 68.0~105.2% compared with the field data and the velocity error of main direction component showed a good result as -16.7~10.0%. As a result, in the mild slope tidal flat including wide surf zone, the tides and winds were the major affection component of the littoral currents, on the other hand, the wave-induced currents seemed the minor component when the incident wave heights were relatively small.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 1989

Theoretical studies have been made to analyze combined refraction diffraction of the wind waves propagating on a large scale current in water of varying depth. The governing equation for monochromatic waves was derived through splitting a mild slope equation into two equations. A numerical model is developed using finite difference scheme which is computationally very efficient for modelling large area. Numerical examples concerning the interactions between waves and rip currents over a gentle slope are presented, in which the current effects on the wave diffraction in the caustic region are closely examined.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.350-360
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• 2016

In order to investigate characteristics of waves and currents varying in space in the Haeundae coast in winter, numerical simulations by using a 2-D spectral wave model(SWAN) and 2-DH hydrodynamic model(Delft3D) were carried out in this study. The results of numerical simulations were validated with the field data collected at several different locations in the study area in February, 2014. From the numerical simulations, it was found that waves and currents were significantly influenced in terms of direction and magnitude by bottom topography characterized by straggling rock crops covered with sea grasses. The coupling of SWAN and Delft3D models also revealed that alongshore currents directing from the east to the west were developed in the nearshore, due to the influence of larger waves with the main incident direction from the east.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.521-527
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• 2020

In offshore structures, the mean viscous drift force due to drag is considered to be a design part that has not been considered until recently. In particular, it is most important to calculate the drift force acting on a vertical cylinder considering both waves and currents in the low frequency region. This paper presents a process for deriving analytical solutions for the drift forces acting on a fixed vertical cylinder considering waves and currents. The area of the cylinder was considered by dividing it into a splash zone above the free surface and a submerged zone below the free surface. The presence of waves is considered only in the Splash Zone, and in the case of waves and currents, the equations were obtained for both the splash and submerged zones. The results show that drift forces occur due to the significant viscous effects in both the splash zone and the submerged zone. Therefore, the analytical solutions derived in this study can be used to calculate the drift force using the given design variables and form a theoretical basis for judging whether the magnitude of the drift force in each case has a dominant influence within a specific physical range.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.503-509
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• 2020

In offshore floating structures, the viscous mean drift force due to drag is considered a design part that has not been considered until recently. In this paper, an analytical solution for the viscous mean drift forces on a floating vertical cylinder considering the waves and currents was obtained. The area was considered by dividing it into a splash zone above the free surface and a submerged zone below the free surface. In the case of waves, only the splash zone was considered; in the case of waves and currents, equations were obtained in both the splash zone and the submerged zone. The RAO results of previous studies were used to compare the calculated results with the drift forces acting on the fixed cylinder. Except for the case in only waves in the splash zone, the viscous mean drift force acting on the floating cylinder was larger than the drift force acting on the relatively fixed cylinder in most frequencies. In particular, the increase was greater when the currents were considered to be more important. Therefore, these results provide the inference for the viscous drift force due to drag in the design of floating offshore structures.