• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.185-193
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• 2010

In the present study, wave deformation and wave-induced current were calculated under the regular wave conditions using the Boussinesq model. The model results of the wave deformation showed good agreements with the preceeding laboratory experiments of others. The wave-induced current of the fully developed sea state was calculated. For field application of model, the preceeding field data by others in the real scale of the water area were compared, the numerical result of wave deformation showed a relatively good agreement with the field data. Although the numerical result of wave-induced current was underestimated over the longshore bar developed area, the Boussinesq model is generally suitable to predict the wave-induced current.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2000.04a
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• pp.75-81
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• 2000

Water waves propagate over irregular bottom bathymetry are transformed by refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection etc. Principal factor of wave transform is bottom bathymetry, but in case of current field, current is another important factor which effect wave transformation. The governing equation of this study is develop as wave-current equation type to investigate the effect of wave-current interaction. This wave-current model was applied to the Kwangan beach which is located at Pusan. The numerical simulation results of this model show the characteristics of wave transformation and flow pattern around the Kwangan beach fairly well.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.6-10
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• 2001

Water waves propagate over irregular bottom bathymetry are transformed by refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection etc. Principal factor of wave transform is bottom bathymetry, but in case of current field, current is another important factor which effect wave transformation. The governing equation of this study is develope as wave-current equation type to investigate the effect of wave-current interaction. It starts from Berkhoff's(1972) mild slope equation and is transformed to time-dependent hyperbolic type equation by using variational principal. Finally the governing equation is shown as a parabolic type equation by splitting method. This wave-current model was applied to the kwangan beach which is located at Pusan. The numerical simulation results of this model show the characteristics of wave transformation and flow pattern around the Kwangan beach fairly well.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.28 no.9
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• pp.815-820
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• 2004

In this paper, after analyzing other models with their advantages and disadvantages, we proposed a simple parametric model for calculating wind speed & direction and wave height & direction at any location around the typhoon at sea. The proposed wind-field model of typhoon is asymmetric, and consists of a circular symmetric wind-field caused by the pressure gradient of stationary typhoon and a moving wind-field caused by the movement of typhoon. By verifying this model through observed data, we found that it is accurate enough to develop the simulation software for training students and seafarers so as to take appropriate actions while being faced with the typhoon at sea.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.177-187
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• 2022

This study estimates the design wave in the event of a typhoon attack at Busan new port using the wind field, the revised shallow water design wave estimation method proposed by the Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries in 2020, and proposed a reliable method of calculating the shallow water design through verification with the wave observation data. As a result of estimating typhoon wave using the wind field and SWAN numerical model, which are commonly used in the field work, for typhoon that affected Busan new port, it was found that reproducibility was not good except typhoons KONG-REY(1825) and MAYSAK(2009). In particular, in the case of typhoon MAEMI(0314), which had the greatest impact on Busan new port, the maximum significant wave height was estimated to be about 35.0% smaller than that of the observed wave data. Therefore, a plan to improve the reproducibility of typhoon wave was reviewed by applying the method of correcting the wind field and the method of using the Boussinesq equation numerical model, respectively. As a result of the review, it was found that the reproducibility of the wind field was not good as before when the wind field correction. However as a method of linking wind field data, SWAN model results, and Boussinesq numerical model, typhoon wave was estimated during typhoon MAEMI(0314), and the maximum significant wave was similar to the wave observations, so it was reviewed to have good reproducibility.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.399-408
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• 1999

Copeland’s(1985) hyperbolic mild-slope equation including diffraction refraction and reflection in the wave field is used as a governing equation in this study. The result of Maruyama & Kajima(1985) is used to calculate wave direction and that of Watanabe & Maruyama(1986) is used as a energy dissipation formula. Numerical solutions are obtained by the Leap-Frog scheme and compared with Watanabe & Maruyama’s (1984) hydraulic experimental results and numerical simulation results for the detached breakwater. This wave model is applied to a detached breakwater and compared with Watanabe and Maruyama’s (1984) hydraulic model results to check the characteristics of reflected wave field around a detached breakwater. The distribution of wave height and we phase in front of a detached breakwater is more accurate than the Watanabe and Maruyama’s numerical results. The results from our wave model show good agreements with the others and also show nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater. This model is applied to the Gamcheon harbor of pusan. the field observations were carried out at Pusan harbor wave station in 1986-1995 and the results were accepted as a design wave condition in this study. The wave height and wave period was measured by Dong-A university at one station in the Gamcheon harbor in 1996-1997 and used as a calibration criterion. The measured data were used as input data for the numerical simulation and also compared with simulated results. The numerical simulation shows a fairly good results which considering the effect of topographic characteristics and effect of narrow entrance due to two separated breakwaters in Gamcheon harbor. The wave distribution characteristics inside Gamcheon harbor is quite different with the offshore wave direction and wave period.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.128-134
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• 2003

Numerical study on interactions of waves and currents has considerable practical interests in coastal and ocean engineering. And wave-current interactions strongly influence wave characteristics, current profiles, and forces on offshore structures. Presence of currents affects wave properties such as wave height and wave profiles. Furthermore, in case of the irregular waves, it is more complicated problem. The propose of present study, using the one-dimensional wave-current numerical model is based on the extended Boussinesq equation(Madsen, 1991) and an alternative form of wave-current dispersion relation(Mohiuddin, 1999, 2000) including wave action concept, is to simulate wave propagation in a current field including the irregular waves and discuss applicability of the model in a wave-current field.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.57-65
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• 2007

Shallow water waves are hindcasted from sea wind fields, which include wave transformations such as shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection and wave breaking. In case of estimating sea wind field in shallow water, the sea wind revised from free wind obtained by the typhoon model is widely used. However, this method is not able to consider the effect of land topography on the wind field, which will be important factor for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting. In this study, therefore, the effect of land topography on sea wind field in shallow water is investigated for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting with high accuracy. The 3-D MASCON model is introduced to consider the influence of land topography on the wind field. And, for two areas divided by the topographical characteristics, i.e. shielded and opened coastal areas, sea wind field is examined by comparison between initial wind field by typhoon model and modified wind field by 3-D MASCON model. Finally, applying these sea wind fields to SWAN model, the results of shallow water wave calculated in shielded and opened coastal areas are compared, and, also, the effect of MASCON model on shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting is discussed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.116-126
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• 2003

In this study, a method that leads to make a simple decision on important parameters in analysis of wave field in permeable rubble-mound, block-mound breakwater, such as penetration velocity of incident waves and resistance coefficient, is introduced. A model that could analyze wave field of permeable breakwater in harbor, by applying these methods and arbitrary transmission coefficient boundary condition to a time-dependent mild-slope equation, was introduced. The verification of the model was done by carrying out 2-D physical model test on permeable breakwater, measuring the change in water surface elevation, comparing the computation result with time series, and comparing the result gained from the 3-D physical model test on permeable block-mound breakwater in an field harbor with the computation result in terms of regional wave height ratio in a harbor.

• Journal of the Korean Mathematical Society
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• v.37 no.6
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• pp.977-989
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• 2000

In this paper we construct a standing solitary wave solution with prescribed total electric charge to the planer Chern-Simons gauged nonlinear Schrodinger equation with an external electromagnetic field by using a variations method.