• Title/Summary/Keyword: wave steepness

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A Study on Shock Pressure of Breaking wave Exerted Upon Vertical Wall (수직벽상(垂直壁上)의 충격쇄파압(衝擊碎波壓)에 관한 연구(硏究))

  • Lee, Bong Hak;Choi, Han Kuy;Kim, Nam Weon
    • Journal of Industrial Technology
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    • v.8
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    • pp.3-11
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    • 1988
  • Shock pressure of wave breaking on vertical wall is studied experimentally with beaches, which have four different slopes (1/4.02, 1/7.05, 1/10, 1 /13.5). This results is summerized as follows: 1. Maximum impact presures are occured where the wave break directly on the wall rather than breaking in front of the wall. 2. Deep water steepness, and the beach slope are the two Quantities governing the magnitude and location of maximum dimensionless impact pressure from wave breaking directly on the wall, also, the greatest pressure is produced with a beach slope of 1/10. 3. This study is clearly shown that the location of maximum pressure can be presented above still water level under respectively experimental condition. The dimensionless elevation of maximum Pressure is greatest on a beach slope of 1/10.

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A study on characteristics of overtopping rate with Berm's size at the low crest breakwater (저천단 방파제에서의 소단규모에 따른 월파특성에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Hong-Jin;Jeon, Yong-Ho;Ryu, Cheong-Ro
    • Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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    • 2002.10a
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    • pp.113-118
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    • 2002
  • Wave overtopping is one of the most important hydraulic responses of breakwater because it significantly affects its functional efficiency, the safety of transit and mooring on the rear side, wave transmission in the sheltered area, rear side armor stones and to some extent, the structural safety itself. The hydrodynamic characteristics of low crest breakwater by the overtopping rate can be summarized as follows: 1. It is better to use maximum overtopping rate than to use mean overtopping rate for design of coastal structures. 2. Maximum overtopping rate was increase with wave steepness (between 0.01 and 0.02). 3. Overtopping rate is decreased when relation length of berm was over wave length.

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Numerical study of wind profiles over simplified water waves

  • Cao, Shuyang;Zhang, Enzhen;Sun, Liming;Cao, Jinxin
    • Wind and Structures
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    • v.21 no.3
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    • pp.289-309
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    • 2015
  • Vertical profiles of mean and fluctuating wind velocities over water waves were studied, by performing Large-Eddy Simulations (LES) on a fully developed turbulent boundary layer over simplified water waves. The water waves were simplified to two-dimensional, periodic and non-evolving. Different wave steepness defined by $a/{\lambda}$ (a : wave amplitude; ${\lambda}$ : wavelength) and wave age defined by $c/U_b$ (c: phase velocity of the wave; $U_b$ : bulk velocity of the air) were considered, in order to elaborate the characteristics of mean and fluctuating wind profiles. Results shows that, compared to a static wave, a moving wave plays a lesser aerodynamic role as roughness as it moves downstream slower or a little faster than air, and plays more aerodynamic roles when it moves downstream much faster than air or moves in the opposite direction to air. The changes of gradient height, power law index, roughness length and friction velocity with wave age and wave amplitude are presented, which shed light on the wind characteristics over real sea surfaces for wind engineering applications.

Experimental Study for Wave Transmission Coefficients of Submerged Structure : I. Permeable Type Structure (수중구조물의 파고전달계수 산정 실험 : I. 투과형 수중구조물)

  • Lee, Jong-In;Bae, Il Rho
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.40 no.5
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    • pp.485-496
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    • 2020
  • Submerged structures such as low-crested breakwaters and artificial reefs have been commonly used for coastal protection. In this study, two-dimensional laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to investigate the wave transmission phenomena of permeable type submerged structures armored by Tetrapods. Different cases of the experimental conditions were included by relative crest depth, relative freeboard, relative crest width, wave steepness and so on. An empirical formula from the experimental data was proposed to predict the wave transmission coefficients over various specifications and structural designs of the permeable type submerged structure. The proposed formula successfully predicted the wave transmission coefficients. In this study, the proposed empirical formula of the wave transmission over the submerged structure was improved from the existing formula.

Experimental Study on Wave Transmission Coefficients of Submerged Structure : II. Rubble-Mound Type Structure armored by Tetrapods (수중구조물의 파고전달계수 산정 실험 : II. 테트라포드 피복 경사형 수중구조물)

  • Lee, Jong-In;Kim, Young Il
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.40 no.5
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    • pp.497-507
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    • 2020
  • Two-dimensional laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to investigate the wave transmission phenomena of rubble-mound type submerged structures armored with Tetrapods. Different experimental conditions were included by considering relative crest depth, relative freeboard, relative crest width, wave steepness, and so on. An empirical formula was proposed to predict the wave transmission coefficients over various specifications and structural designs of the partial perforated (rubble-mound) type submerged structure from the experimental results. The proposed formula successfully predicted the wave transmission coefficients. In this study, the proposed empirical formula of the wave transmission over the rubble-mound type submerged structure was improved from the existing formula.

Note on the appearance of Freak Waves from in-situ ocean wave data

  • Tomita, Hiroshi;Waseda, Takuji
    • Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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    • 2006.11a
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    • pp.105-112
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    • 2006
  • Freak waves in the ocean are recently drawing much attention as a natural disaster to ocean structures and navigating ships as well. Several observation data, among them the Draupner New Year Wave, show the very impressive feature of Freak waves whose wave height is up to three times as high as the significant wave height of surrounding waves, In addition, Freak wave appears as an isolated very high crest in somewhat stationary random waves of same order in their wavelengths. Bearing such characteristics in mind, one notices its extraordinary steepness. This strongly suggests that Freak wave is not long lived but transient nature on the whole. A great number of studies to explain these natures were published from both theoretical and numerical point of view. However it is not sure if they are applicable to actual ocean environment. In this paper, we deal with the results concerning abnormal and/or Freak waves from in-situ ocean wave data and point out several remarks to the problems lain behind the contributions in this context. A physical experiment is described to reinforce the subject discussed from the observation data.

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Experimental Study on Wave Transmission Coefficients of Submerged Structures: III. Impermeable-Type Structure (수중구조물의 파고전달계수 산정 실험 : III. 불투과형 수중구조물)

  • Lee, Jong-In;Cho, Ji Hoon
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.40 no.6
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    • pp.593-601
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    • 2020
  • Two-dimensional laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to investigate the wave transmission phenomena of impermeable-type submerged structures armored by concrete blocks. Different experimental conditions were included by considering relative crest depth, relative freeboard, relative crest width, wave steepness, and so on. An empirical formula was proposed to predict the wave transmission coefficients over various specifications and structural designs of the impermeable submerged structure from the experimental results. The proposed formula successfully predicted the wave transmission coefficients. Therefore, in this study, the proposed empirical formula of the wave transmission over an impermeable submerged structure was improved from the existing formula.

Study on Wave Run-Up Phenomenon over Vertical Cylinder (실린더 형상에 따른 Wave Run-up 현상에 대한 연구)

  • Lee, Sang Beom;Han, Seung Yoon;Choi, Young Myoung;Kwon, Sun Hong;Jung, Dong Woo;Park, Jun Soo
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.27 no.4
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    • pp.62-67
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    • 2013
  • In this paper, the wave run.up on a vertical cylinder is presented. Various cross sections of a cylinder were simulated using the panel method for various wave periods. Two.dimensional model tests were performed in a wave flume. The simulation results are compared with the test results. The simulation is based on the linear diffraction theory.

Numercal Simulation of Unsteady Performance for 20D Surface Effect Airfoils (2차원 해면효과익의 비정상 성능에 대한 수치적 시뮬레이션)

  • Park, Il-Ryong;Jeon, Ho-Hwan
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • v.9 no.2
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    • pp.71-74
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    • 1995
  • A numerical model capable of simulating a 2-D airfoil flying over in the vicinity of the waves is discussed. Instead of treating the problem as a heaving oscillation one above the rigid flat wall, sources are distributed on the prescribed wave profile. The wave deformation due to the airfoil is assumed to be negligible and treated as a rigid undulated wall. The source and vortex are distributed on the surface of the foil. It is found that the variation of $C_L$ with wave steepness in severe and that the lift variation due to waves decreases as the wing height above the water surface increases.

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The Effect of Cross-Shore Sediment Transport on Bar Parameters: an Experimental Study

  • Demirci, Mustafa;Akoz, M. Sami
    • International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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    • v.2 no.1
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    • pp.1-7
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    • 2012
  • The cross-shore sediment transport in a coastal region causes the important changes in beach morphological properties. The accurate estimation of the cross-shore sediment transport is important for the designing of the marine structures such as seawalls, jetties, breakwaters etc, and the preventing coastal erosion and accretion due to on-off shore sediment transportation. In this study, the experiments on cross- shore sediment transport carried out in a laboratory wave channel for initial beach slopes of 1/8, 1/10 and 1/15. Using the regular waves with different deep-water wave steepness generated by a pedal-type wave generator, the geometrical characteristics of beach profiles under storm conditions and the parameters affecting on-off shore sediment transport are investigated for the beach materials having medium diameters of $d_{50}$=0.25, 0.32, 0.45, 0.62 and 0.80 mm. The experimental results obtained from this study compared with previous experimental work and found to be of the same magnitude as the experimental measurements and followed the expected basic trend.